Hi
I was wondering what the best mounting strategy for these would be.
The drivers are ~10kg (~22lbs) each, heavier than a lot of subwoofers.
However the frame only has 4 mounting holes, and they don't look big enough to take anything bigger than a M4 bolt without scratching.
Here's a pic:
I was planning on using recessed front mounting with wood screws but looks like that won't really be possible. I could rear mount it with T-nuts (which I don't have and cannot find in my country) but not sure how to hide the nuts.
I was wondering what the best mounting strategy for these would be.
The drivers are ~10kg (~22lbs) each, heavier than a lot of subwoofers.
However the frame only has 4 mounting holes, and they don't look big enough to take anything bigger than a M4 bolt without scratching.
Here's a pic:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I was planning on using recessed front mounting with wood screws but looks like that won't really be possible. I could rear mount it with T-nuts (which I don't have and cannot find in my country) but not sure how to hide the nuts.
You could mount using brackets that will support the speaker in more locations...
this is apposed to the traditional standard mount...
I hope this is useful for you. It will allow you to use several mount points and use bigger bolts!
this is apposed to the traditional standard mount...
I hope this is useful for you. It will allow you to use several mount points and use bigger bolts!
Thanks ClackS02.
If using clamps I will *have* to rear mount if I don't want visible clamps, correct?
Thing is I'm trying to balance diffraction effects given the driver's lack of low-end response, so was trying to avoid rear-mounting. Also wanted something spouse friendly (well, as much as something like this can ever be!) so was hoping for no visible uglies.
What if I got a custom metal mount to secure the driver, and then use multiple bolts to secure *that* frame to the baffle?
If using clamps I will *have* to rear mount if I don't want visible clamps, correct?
Thing is I'm trying to balance diffraction effects given the driver's lack of low-end response, so was trying to avoid rear-mounting. Also wanted something spouse friendly (well, as much as something like this can ever be!) so was hoping for no visible uglies.
What if I got a custom metal mount to secure the driver, and then use multiple bolts to secure *that* frame to the baffle?
This is probably the case, however there are alternatives
What type of enclosure are you using? You can always cut a metal frame to put around the outside of the speaker therefore holding it in place, and then place an extra baffle over the speaker (with a bigger tapered hole) to make things look pretty!
Depending on the thickness of wood, you could also use a router to achieve the same!
!! in your case, do this on the inside of the enclosure then put the brackets on (so you dont lose as much space by mounting from the rear).
I hope this helps
Thanks a lot for that Steve, and apologies for the delay while I was trying to get a hold of a metal worker.
Since I couldn't, I have now arrived at the simpler method of mounting the driver from the front and a couple of braces at the back to support it (the chosen 'Altec 618' design helps in this regard). I was advised a light and resonant box so am starting with a hard pine top and spaceframe, and 10mm marine ply with a doubled front baffle. I haven't shown the countersink but will be using the second sheet of the front baffle to make it up. Not only do I not have a router, if I had one I wouldn't be able to use it and still have all my fingers. I'm using a carpenter to get the boxes made.
Since I couldn't, I have now arrived at the simpler method of mounting the driver from the front and a couple of braces at the back to support it (the chosen 'Altec 618' design helps in this regard). I was advised a light and resonant box so am starting with a hard pine top and spaceframe, and 10mm marine ply with a doubled front baffle. I haven't shown the countersink but will be using the second sheet of the front baffle to make it up. Not only do I not have a router, if I had one I wouldn't be able to use it and still have all my fingers. I'm using a carpenter to get the boxes made.
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This is great news!
Will be good to see this project in progress! Upload pictures as you go !
Dont forget to ask questions if your not sure! thats what we are here for 😉
Will be good to see this project in progress! Upload pictures as you go !
Dont forget to ask questions if your not sure! thats what we are here for 😉
Thanks! We should have the boxes ready tonight. As we speak the vinyl laminate covering is being affixed to the cabinet wall.
You can see some pics of the box internals and the team (also a bunch of happy feet) here: ImageShack Album - 6 images
You can see some pics of the box internals and the team (also a bunch of happy feet) here: ImageShack Album - 6 images
Ive just has a look, this is looking good! Will have to keep me up to date with how its going !
Interested to see the finished product!
Interested to see the finished product!
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