Line Magnetic 755EX question

Sangram

Moderator
Paid Member
2002-09-25 11:01 am
India
Hi

I was wondering what the best mounting strategy for these would be.

The drivers are ~10kg (~22lbs) each, heavier than a lot of subwoofers.

However the frame only has 4 mounting holes, and they don't look big enough to take anything bigger than a M4 bolt without scratching.

Here's a pic:

[IMGDEAD]http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/5098/dsc1994s.jpg[/IMGDEAD]

[IMGDEAD]http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/6089/dsc1995fq.jpg[/IMGDEAD]

I was planning on using recessed front mounting with wood screws but looks like that won't really be possible. I could rear mount it with T-nuts (which I don't have and cannot find in my country) but not sure how to hide the nuts.
 
You could mount using brackets that will support the speaker in more locations...

REAR-CLAMP.gif


this is apposed to the traditional standard mount...

FRONT.gif


I hope this is useful for you. It will allow you to use several mount points and use bigger bolts!
 

Sangram

Moderator
Paid Member
2002-09-25 11:01 am
India
Thanks ClackS02.

If using clamps I will *have* to rear mount if I don't want visible clamps, correct?

Thing is I'm trying to balance diffraction effects given the driver's lack of low-end response, so was trying to avoid rear-mounting. Also wanted something spouse friendly (well, as much as something like this can ever be!) so was hoping for no visible uglies.

What if I got a custom metal mount to secure the driver, and then use multiple bolts to secure *that* frame to the baffle?
 
If using clamps I will *have* to rear mount if I don't want visible clamps, correct?

This is probably the case, however there are alternatives


What if I got a custom metal mount to secure the driver, and then use multiple bolts to secure *that* frame to the baffle?

What type of enclosure are you using? You can always cut a metal frame to put around the outside of the speaker therefore holding it in place, and then place an extra baffle over the speaker (with a bigger tapered hole) to make things look pretty!
InsideSpeakerBox.jpg


Depending on the thickness of wood, you could also use a router to achieve the same!
137223d1343814529t-speaker-cutout-little-bit-too-narrow-problem-baffle-jpg


!! in your case, do this on the inside of the enclosure then put the brackets on (so you dont lose as much space by mounting from the rear).

I hope this helps
 

Sangram

Moderator
Paid Member
2002-09-25 11:01 am
India
Thanks a lot for that Steve, and apologies for the delay while I was trying to get a hold of a metal worker.

Since I couldn't, I have now arrived at the simpler method of mounting the driver from the front and a couple of braces at the back to support it (the chosen 'Altec 618' design helps in this regard). I was advised a light and resonant box so am starting with a hard pine top and spaceframe, and 10mm marine ply with a doubled front baffle. I haven't shown the countersink but will be using the second sheet of the front baffle to make it up. Not only do I not have a router, if I had one I wouldn't be able to use it and still have all my fingers. I'm using a carpenter to get the boxes made.
 

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