Hi SamElfring,
I didn't build the box myself due to lack of woodwork skills.
I have little scratch on the paint now and I ask the carpenter who build this box for me for help. They suggest me to use #600 sandpaper to do gentle polish and then apply PU furniture paint to fix it.
Hope that help.
I didn't build the box myself due to lack of woodwork skills.
I have little scratch on the paint now and I ask the carpenter who build this box for me for help. They suggest me to use #600 sandpaper to do gentle polish and then apply PU furniture paint to fix it.
Hope that help.
Hi @yys310 @k3rry, I would like to follow yours project, but seeing that DCX464 has 02 version of 8 ohm anh 16 ohm. Could you pls tell me which version I should choose? Beside, do you mind sharing cabinet drawing with dimension, I read pdf file of Scott Hinson, but it is difficult for me to redraw it to my carpenter near me.
Thank you.
Hi,
I follow Scott's choice so it's 16 ohm version.
I just use the 3D model in Scott's post. He attached the sketchup file in the comment section.
And I use the length label function in Sketchup to mark the required dimension for the carpenter.
However I'll suggest you go to the facebook group DIY loudspeaker project pad.
One of the member re-draw the model and I think it's even easier to understand.
See the comment section in this post
I follow Scott's choice so it's 16 ohm version.
I just use the 3D model in Scott's post. He attached the sketchup file in the comment section.
And I use the length label function in Sketchup to mark the required dimension for the carpenter.
However I'll suggest you go to the facebook group DIY loudspeaker project pad.
One of the member re-draw the model and I think it's even easier to understand.
See the comment section in this post
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I went for the 8ohm version as I’m running from
Battery so that gave me more headroom on the amp but I rolled my own DSP so it didn’t matter. I’d unsure suggest you follow Scott’s design to the letter!
Battery so that gave me more headroom on the amp but I rolled my own DSP so it didn’t matter. I’d unsure suggest you follow Scott’s design to the letter!
yys310,
I attempted to send you a personal message, but I lack enough posts, so I'm messaging you here. My apologies to everyone else in this thread.
I'm interested in trying my hand at building Scott's MEH speakers. I live in Taoyuan (to help care for my wife's parents) for part of each year. May I ask you where in Taiwan you had your speaker cabinets built? [I was told there is a fellow in Zhubei, another in Pingdong, and THL Audio in Taipei who might be able to build my speakers, but I haven't contacted them yet.
Best regards...
I read Scott’s paper but didn’t get much background on woofer selection. What parameters works for this type of build and why?
With the theme of this thread… Is it possible to build a mini-MEH using 4x Dayton epique e180he-44 mounted around the DCX354? Crossed at 400 or slightly higher.
With the theme of this thread… Is it possible to build a mini-MEH using 4x Dayton epique e180he-44 mounted around the DCX354? Crossed at 400 or slightly higher.
As I understand it, for the woofer section of Scott’s MEH it’s just a bass reflex with two 10 inch woofers… albeit the front of the woofers is partially obscured, which results in a low pass filter on the woofers, which is of course fine because the comp drivers take over above 310hz… I’m not sure about those Dayton drivers, but if you’re looking to build a different box, search synergy horn on this forum and you’ll get lots of options.. and somewhere there’s a brilliant spreadsheet you can use to design and dimension your own box. I plan to make my own variant one day 😁 Good luck!
@bitinhvi Scott uses 16 Ohm DCX464-16 and two 10NW76-8, with the wooders wired in parallel in phase.
You can see in Scott's original doc that the woofer lowpass electronic crossover is set to ~150Hz I think but the acoustic crossover ends up being much higher due to the effect of horn loading increasing as freq approaches 300Hz.
As for acoustic crossover point, as others have mentioned, if you want the benefits of a unity/synergy horn then ~300Hz Xover is non-negitiable (although I'd be curious to see directivity measurements and simulations to see how gradually lobing / other effects start creeping in).
If you see the DCX464 manufacturer sheet, you can see 300Hz is a real push but obviously this changes when loaded within a particular horn, hence 300Hz is just about possible. Aside from the port output, if you're hoping to use MEH for PA use then this is probably the limited factor. Again, this is a guess so do your own measurements first.
Also bear in mind the woofer taps act as a low pass filter depending on the volume trapped beneath the cone and the dimensions of the tap itself, so you can't just shift the same shaped filter up in frequency.
TLDR:
1. Use 300Hz acoustic crossover for home use, although others (e.g. John White) cross higher for PA user.
2. Woofers can almost definitely cross higher but need measurements to decide filter (if you're happy sacrificing 300Hz Xover, in which case you've wasted a lot of effort / not made the most of building a synergy horn IMO)
3. I'd advise just getting the DCX464 - it's already near the limit of it's low freq capability so if you're not using it, other designs are more suitable for the given components you have.
You can see in Scott's original doc that the woofer lowpass electronic crossover is set to ~150Hz I think but the acoustic crossover ends up being much higher due to the effect of horn loading increasing as freq approaches 300Hz.
As for acoustic crossover point, as others have mentioned, if you want the benefits of a unity/synergy horn then ~300Hz Xover is non-negitiable (although I'd be curious to see directivity measurements and simulations to see how gradually lobing / other effects start creeping in).
If you see the DCX464 manufacturer sheet, you can see 300Hz is a real push but obviously this changes when loaded within a particular horn, hence 300Hz is just about possible. Aside from the port output, if you're hoping to use MEH for PA use then this is probably the limited factor. Again, this is a guess so do your own measurements first.
Also bear in mind the woofer taps act as a low pass filter depending on the volume trapped beneath the cone and the dimensions of the tap itself, so you can't just shift the same shaped filter up in frequency.
TLDR:
1. Use 300Hz acoustic crossover for home use, although others (e.g. John White) cross higher for PA user.
2. Woofers can almost definitely cross higher but need measurements to decide filter (if you're happy sacrificing 300Hz Xover, in which case you've wasted a lot of effort / not made the most of building a synergy horn IMO)
3. I'd advise just getting the DCX464 - it's already near the limit of it's low freq capability so if you're not using it, other designs are more suitable for the given components you have.
@SamElfring many thanks for information and your advice. My compression drive is Fostex D221 that has usable range from 250Hz, at home level volume and 18db slope, I will try to cut it lower near 300Hz point.
@bitinhvi I've looked up the D221 and although Fostex quotes 250Hz "usable", it will definitely be distorting down that low and probably be 12dB at least down from what it produces above 2kHz.
https://audio-database.com/FOSTER-FOSTEX/unit/d221.html
They've not given a range e.g. +-3dB so I wouldn't trust that spec and again, it's not useful without the measurements. Also bear in mind the DCX464 is a coaxial driver using two separate drivers for HF/MF so it would be a miracle if the fostex driver could even come close.
https://audio-database.com/FOSTER-FOSTEX/unit/d221.html
They've not given a range e.g. +-3dB so I wouldn't trust that spec and again, it's not useful without the measurements. Also bear in mind the DCX464 is a coaxial driver using two separate drivers for HF/MF so it would be a miracle if the fostex driver could even come close.