Hi there,
I'm building a 15" LCD projector and I'm about to buy a 400W metal-halide bulb... Now which would be a better choice:
400W, 42000 lumens, 4200K color temp.
VS
400W, 31000 lumens, 5900K color temp.
Is it better to have a bulb producing more light (42000 lum) or less light but having a better color temperature (5900K).
Thx in advance
I'm building a 15" LCD projector and I'm about to buy a 400W metal-halide bulb... Now which would be a better choice:
400W, 42000 lumens, 4200K color temp.
VS
400W, 31000 lumens, 5900K color temp.
Is it better to have a bulb producing more light (42000 lum) or less light but having a better color temperature (5900K).
Thx in advance
I think alot of people are happy with the uhi-s400dd
5200 k
33000 lumens
which is similar to the one you found with 31000 lumens. What is the CRI rating for those two bulbs?
Zaner21
5200 k
33000 lumens
which is similar to the one you found with 31000 lumens. What is the CRI rating for those two bulbs?
Zaner21
Lucia 400W bulb (31000 lumens, 5900K) - CRI > 95
BLV 400W bulb (42000 lumens, 4200K) - I don't really know.
Here are the specs http://www.blv-licht.de/media/products/BLVMedia0024105.PDF
The difference in luminance is huge - the blv bulb is more than 30% brighter, which means I'll get more or less a 30% brighter image... Am I right? What would you suggest?
😕
BLV 400W bulb (42000 lumens, 4200K) - I don't really know.
Here are the specs http://www.blv-licht.de/media/products/BLVMedia0024105.PDF
The difference in luminance is huge - the blv bulb is more than 30% brighter, which means I'll get more or less a 30% brighter image... Am I right? What would you suggest?
😕
Edit: the Leuci lamp (31000 lumens) apparently has a bit more lumens - 33000. It also has a build-in UV filter. I still don't know which one to choose. Need help! 
The 4200K bulb's colors will tend to have a reddish hue to them. Whites aren't quite as brilliant. If you compared them side by side, you'd see an immediate difference in colors. You'd probably notice the brightness difference too. If you just installed one without looking at the other, you'd probably not notice the reddish of the 4200K or how much less bright the 5900K is. Basically, read what people say. Many have used both.
I tried to get such info using search but unfortunately I couldn't find it 🙁. Could somebody help me and give me a link to such topic? Or maby you know who tested both bulbs and could recommend me one of those?superdaveumo said:
I don't know specific people, but if you do a search for 4200K and 5900K or go to the completed projectors thread, you should find your answers.
Ok thanks for the info! One more thing... the brighter bulb doesn't have a build-in UV filter. Is the UV radiation in a 400W MH lamp intense enough to damage the LCD panel? Would it be harmfull to my eyes? I don't really know where I could buy a UV filter in Poland 🙁 so I guess I would use it without any filters.
UV
MH lamps are mercury vapor + various additives, so they all emit a lot of UV. Even with a UV blocking glass in the lamp, they will still emit enough UV to damage your eyes (within seconds), your LCD (within weeks), your acrylic fresnels (within months), and give you a bad sunburn on your hands if you work near the lit lamp for more than a few minutes. Always wear UV-blocking sunglasses or welder's goggles if you are looking at the lamp.
EVERYBODY needs a UV filter in their projector, if they are using a Metal Halide lamp. You can use a piece of Lexan XL10 polycarbonate in a sandwich with your first fresnel. This window-replacement plastic has a 99.9% effective UV blocking film on one side. (That side should face your lamp, or the polycarbonate will turn yellow over time.) This is pretty cheap.
Other alternatives: exclusiv-online sells an IR/UV filter, and many of the other DIY online stores sell flexible plastic UV filter sheets for about $6 US.
MH lamps are mercury vapor + various additives, so they all emit a lot of UV. Even with a UV blocking glass in the lamp, they will still emit enough UV to damage your eyes (within seconds), your LCD (within weeks), your acrylic fresnels (within months), and give you a bad sunburn on your hands if you work near the lit lamp for more than a few minutes. Always wear UV-blocking sunglasses or welder's goggles if you are looking at the lamp.
EVERYBODY needs a UV filter in their projector, if they are using a Metal Halide lamp. You can use a piece of Lexan XL10 polycarbonate in a sandwich with your first fresnel. This window-replacement plastic has a 99.9% effective UV blocking film on one side. (That side should face your lamp, or the polycarbonate will turn yellow over time.) This is pretty cheap.
Other alternatives: exclusiv-online sells an IR/UV filter, and many of the other DIY online stores sell flexible plastic UV filter sheets for about $6 US.
Well good to know! Thx Guy Grotke. I found a sheet of UV filter 50cmx60cm so enough for two 15" projectors for $4 🙂
which side should i face towards the light? green or white? my sheet is cut-off right where it says what side, thanks
woe woe woe..
I just now found out about us needing a uv blocking filter if we use a metal halide bulb (i'm in process of ordering parts)
so damn good thing you guys mentioned it here, (have i missed this in the what newbies should know section)
any chance i can by the stuff locally?
and why would uv damage a lcd? an lcd is made out of glass, right?
i understand the fresnel lense being damaged cause it's plastic so i could see that it would yellow and crack.
but since when does glass get damaged by uv?
cause the lcd is composite glas (mixed with plastic)?
but seriously, where can i buy this stuff that i don't even know what it is?
I just now found out about us needing a uv blocking filter if we use a metal halide bulb (i'm in process of ordering parts)
so damn good thing you guys mentioned it here, (have i missed this in the what newbies should know section)
any chance i can by the stuff locally?
and why would uv damage a lcd? an lcd is made out of glass, right?
i understand the fresnel lense being damaged cause it's plastic so i could see that it would yellow and crack.
but since when does glass get damaged by uv?
cause the lcd is composite glas (mixed with plastic)?
but seriously, where can i buy this stuff that i don't even know what it is?
local source for UV filter
One of the best UV filters you can get is Lexan XL10 polycarbonate window replacement. I assume you have a local Home Depot: Just go to the window glass section and look right next to the small pieces of pre-cut glass. There should be one or more bins filled with pre-cut Lexan XL10 pieces. I paid about $6 for an 11" by 14" piece a few months ago.
It has white plastic with printing on one side, and green plastic on the other. You can cut it to fit your fresnel mounting frame using a hacksaw, or a jigsaw with a fine metal blade. Be careful not to scratch it. File the edges smooth, and then peel off the white and green plastic. (You might want to leave a tiny piece of the green on there in a corner, so you know which side the UV coating is on.) Put it in the frame with the side that had the green plastic facing the light, then put your first fresnel up against it. It will support your fresnel (acrylic sags when it gets hot) and block 99.99% of the UV.
UV damages the molecular structure of acrylic fresnels, which turns them yellow and cloudy over time. It also damages the polarizers and color filters in LCD panels. It will actually damage polycarbonate, too. That is why GE makes Lexan XL10 with a special UV blocker on one side: So it doesn't turn yellow after a few years of sun exposure. Without this, they would not be able to sell it as a window glass replacement.
PS for other builders: If they don't have XL10 in your country, they may have another variety. In Canada, they sell one with UV blocker on both sides of the polycarbonate.
One of the best UV filters you can get is Lexan XL10 polycarbonate window replacement. I assume you have a local Home Depot: Just go to the window glass section and look right next to the small pieces of pre-cut glass. There should be one or more bins filled with pre-cut Lexan XL10 pieces. I paid about $6 for an 11" by 14" piece a few months ago.
It has white plastic with printing on one side, and green plastic on the other. You can cut it to fit your fresnel mounting frame using a hacksaw, or a jigsaw with a fine metal blade. Be careful not to scratch it. File the edges smooth, and then peel off the white and green plastic. (You might want to leave a tiny piece of the green on there in a corner, so you know which side the UV coating is on.) Put it in the frame with the side that had the green plastic facing the light, then put your first fresnel up against it. It will support your fresnel (acrylic sags when it gets hot) and block 99.99% of the UV.
UV damages the molecular structure of acrylic fresnels, which turns them yellow and cloudy over time. It also damages the polarizers and color filters in LCD panels. It will actually damage polycarbonate, too. That is why GE makes Lexan XL10 with a special UV blocker on one side: So it doesn't turn yellow after a few years of sun exposure. Without this, they would not be able to sell it as a window glass replacement.
PS for other builders: If they don't have XL10 in your country, they may have another variety. In Canada, they sell one with UV blocker on both sides of the polycarbonate.
thanks man.
appreciate the help.
at least it's something i can get locally for a change.. LOL.
Your Dog Rocks........ he looks like my black lab Homer.
sadly, Homer's age is catching up to him and his kidneys are starting to fail.
wish i had the money to clone him.
appreciate the help.
at least it's something i can get locally for a change.. LOL.
Your Dog Rocks........ he looks like my black lab Homer.
sadly, Homer's age is catching up to him and his kidneys are starting to fail.
wish i had the money to clone him.
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