i searched and didnt find anything. can a 400w metal halide floodlight like the one below be used for people whom dont know how to wire ****?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26219&item=3859764315&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26219&item=3859764315&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
PLease don't spend that much money on that. it is so huge. I really would encourage you to go for a bulb and ballast option. If you can build a DIY projector at all, then you can wire a ballast. There really is NOTHING to it. Just real what the wires say and hook them up. The ballas will have 6 wires.....2 commons, 1 Lamp, 3 Positives (110, 220, 440 volt). Just use the positive wire that goes with your plug, probably 110. Connect it to one side of an extnsion cord, and connect one of the commons to the other wire on the extension cord. Connest the Lamp wire to the lamp socket, and the other common to the lamp socket. Leav the other two unused wires alone. There it is. It is easier when you actually have the ballast in from of you to understand what i am talking about.
For 40 bucks you could get this bulb http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=UHI-S400DDUSHIO
It is the best bulb for projection in my opinion. Many would agree.
And for a ballast you could get this http://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=801 for 48 bucks.
Then all you need is a mogul socket that you can get at an electrical supply store for like 8 bucks.
There is a sweet lighint kit for less than the price of the one you found, and you could build a much smaller, better layed out light box for it.
Hope this helps.
For 40 bucks you could get this bulb http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=UHI-S400DDUSHIO
It is the best bulb for projection in my opinion. Many would agree.
And for a ballast you could get this http://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=801 for 48 bucks.
Then all you need is a mogul socket that you can get at an electrical supply store for like 8 bucks.
There is a sweet lighint kit for less than the price of the one you found, and you could build a much smaller, better layed out light box for it.
Hope this helps.
HPS ballast
Some people claim to have it working with an MH ballast, but here is one of the recommended type:
http://www.goodmart.com/products/243289.htm
400 Watt Quad voltage HPS ballast, $62.49 plus shipping.
Some people claim to have it working with an MH ballast, but here is one of the recommended type:
http://www.goodmart.com/products/243289.htm
400 Watt Quad voltage HPS ballast, $62.49 plus shipping.
danger using a multi-tap ballast
Apparently, it is a little known fact that the wires you don't use in a multi-tap ballast must be insulated with wire nuts. If you connect the wire labelled "120" to the 120 VAC black wire, and the wire labelled "COM" to the 120 VAC white wire, those extra wires labelled something like "208", "240", and "277" will actually have 208, 240, and 277 volts AC relative to ground.
They can and will deliver enough current to kill you, if you accidentally touch them and a ground (like another piece of electronic equipment) at the same time.
When you are building your projector, you should clip any exposed metal from the ends of those extra wires and then twist a wire nut on each wire. (DO NOT twist them together to use a single wire nut, you cheap b*****d!
) Then secure those wires with a cable clamp so they would not touch anything metal if a nut did come off. Make sure those wire nuts stay on before you close up the box.
If you don't have any experience with 120 volt wiring, the best thing you could do is show your projector to somebody who does, before you turn it on. Ask your friends if they know anybody who does wiring, appliance repair, or is retired from something like that. Even some handyman types know wiring. You might find somebody who would be interested to see your projector just for fun, and may be able to give you some good advice.
Apparently, it is a little known fact that the wires you don't use in a multi-tap ballast must be insulated with wire nuts. If you connect the wire labelled "120" to the 120 VAC black wire, and the wire labelled "COM" to the 120 VAC white wire, those extra wires labelled something like "208", "240", and "277" will actually have 208, 240, and 277 volts AC relative to ground.
They can and will deliver enough current to kill you, if you accidentally touch them and a ground (like another piece of electronic equipment) at the same time.
When you are building your projector, you should clip any exposed metal from the ends of those extra wires and then twist a wire nut on each wire. (DO NOT twist them together to use a single wire nut, you cheap b*****d!
) Then secure those wires with a cable clamp so they would not touch anything metal if a nut did come off. Make sure those wire nuts stay on before you close up the box.If you don't have any experience with 120 volt wiring, the best thing you could do is show your projector to somebody who does, before you turn it on. Ask your friends if they know anybody who does wiring, appliance repair, or is retired from something like that. Even some handyman types know wiring. You might find somebody who would be interested to see your projector just for fun, and may be able to give you some good advice.
That retrofit bulb works 100% with that ballast. I have the exact same setup. Trust me.
As for the extra wires on a ballast.....my ballast came with protective covers over the ends of al the wires. You have to remove the cover in order to use a wire, so if you do not need a wire, you leave the cover on. No need for wire nuts on mine.
As for the extra wires on a ballast.....my ballast came with protective covers over the ends of al the wires. You have to remove the cover in order to use a wire, so if you do not need a wire, you leave the cover on. No need for wire nuts on mine.
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