Winter must have been harsh this year, first the table saw fence and now one of the routers:
The depth adjust had got jammed(probably from the winter months), I did manage to free it up but it subsequently fell to apart and I can't get it to fit back together properly 😀 I had grown quite fond of it but ultimately no real loss as its a couple of years old and only a cheap £30 effort - I've had my monies worth out of it.
Made a start now and will post a photo's tomorrow.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The depth adjust had got jammed(probably from the winter months), I did manage to free it up but it subsequently fell to apart and I can't get it to fit back together properly 😀 I had grown quite fond of it but ultimately no real loss as its a couple of years old and only a cheap £30 effort - I've had my monies worth out of it.
Made a start now and will post a photo's tomorrow.
m0tion said:
Just gonna wing it this time, EQ fixes all sorts of design oversights 😀
Give Thunau's Frequency Allocator ago. It was the best overall solution I found for the PCXO ie. easy to use, sounds great and I had no hardware or glitching issues including drop outs and underruns. Delay was still a problem though but if you use just the IIR filter section then delay is down to 10ms and worked perfectly well with even video and gaming.
Another good one was Acourate but the learning curve is probably the worst of all the methods I've tried, its the type of program that does get easier the more you use it. Extremely powerful though, perhaps *the* most powerful solution, at least as far as I've seen.
DEQX is still the tidiest solution overall though. I don't have mine anymore though but may or may not buy another... will have to see.
Anyone know a supplier of felt?
Ideally looking for upto 9mm thickness and in black. I've seen a few DIY projects using this stuff so I'm guessing its out there somewhere but after searching on Google and also ebay I've come up with nothing apart from the usual thin craft variety.
Ideally looking for upto 9mm thickness and in black. I've seen a few DIY projects using this stuff so I'm guessing its out there somewhere but after searching on Google and also ebay I've come up with nothing apart from the usual thin craft variety.
Try industrial suppliers.
We have McMaster/Carr over here . http://www.mcmaster.com
There is likely something similar in the UK.
Be prepared for sticker shock, it's pricey stuff.
9mm is pretty thick, are you using it inside the box or outside?
We have McMaster/Carr over here . http://www.mcmaster.com
There is likely something similar in the UK.
Be prepared for sticker shock, it's pricey stuff.
9mm is pretty thick, are you using it inside the box or outside?
If I may, I would like to offer a few ideas. If you didn't already purchased the speakers, and if you are still open for different choices for the mid, PHL makes extraordinary mids and they are in 100's dB sensitivity which is breeze in matching with ribbon. Also with crossover you could always make passive between mid and tweeter and active on the bottom if you are looking to simplify. Matching very sensitive top with insensitive bottom is pain, I have been dealing with one but it is not impossible. Active in this case certainly helps. I have passive between mid and tweeter that I could turn on or off with switch in the back. I am running all the time active, but sometimes when I want to test various amps I turn it on.
Best of luck, we are all looking for another masterpiece!
AR2
Best of luck, we are all looking for another masterpiece!
AR2
Here some bracing I prepared earlier. Note the rather messy tweeter cabinet, the thing fell apart just after gluing 🙂
More bracing this time with roundovers:
Progress on the mid/bass portions of the cabinets:
All in all not bad for a few hours work. At this rate I'll have them finished by the end of the week 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
More bracing this time with roundovers:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Progress on the mid/bass portions of the cabinets:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
All in all not bad for a few hours work. At this rate I'll have them finished by the end of the week 😀
m0tion said:
I leave the glue to set a little and then clamp/apply pressure overnight because it would take forever with this sort of work otherwise.
edjosh23 said:
The question of what extra will it give me vs. time. For me its not worth the extra hassle but that's not to say it isn't superior because in absolute terms its the better method.
Come to the UKdiy meet in July and check how dead the cabinets are or aren't. 😀
haha, well i have no doubt that they are dead, i was just wondering. I'm working on a project right now and I decided to build interlocking braces. I have yet to work on how they interlock, but I'm hoping it is not going to be too difficult, I've never built interlocking braces before so its a little experiment. It seems as though every project I build is an experiment; trying new design ideas and building techniques.
Josh
Josh
edjosh23 said:
Its not really much of an issue working out how the bracing interlocks, its a simple matter of taking 50% out of one and 50% out the other then the two slide together. The fun starts with the ball ache of a job that is cutting the interlock grooves and accurately. The quickest and easiest method that I tried was to use an 18mm(for 18mm thick material) diameter staight router bit and mark then cut but its the initial setup for each cut that kills it for me. Its less of a problem when your looking to only do a few of these but when you've got more then its much easier to just use the good old butt joint as I've done here.
A good router fence/table such as those that ScottG linked to a few pages back would make things that much quicker.
tade,
I'm not sure we can make it there, a little far from Raleigh. You going to come listen (and pick up the kit) when these speakers are done?
shin,
I'm using the workshop on my campus, i'm not as comfortable with some of the tools, especially the router. Mine at home is a brand new porter cable with variable speed and what not, the routers here are much older and one of the routers I put back because i was unformfortable using it, it was unsafe.
I was planning on using a bandsaw with a rip fence to cut the slits into the braces.
I was looking at the link scott gave the other day, those are very nice, unfortunately being a freshman in college, i don't think my roomate would be happy with a nice router table in the dorm room and i don't have the money.
m0tion,
I'd like to be able to route into the braces and pannels to fit the braces, but with the tools at the shop, or atleast right now (i just joined the shop last week), i'm uncomfortable to try to route grooves for braces.
Thanks,
Josh
I'm not sure we can make it there, a little far from Raleigh. You going to come listen (and pick up the kit) when these speakers are done?
shin,
I'm using the workshop on my campus, i'm not as comfortable with some of the tools, especially the router. Mine at home is a brand new porter cable with variable speed and what not, the routers here are much older and one of the routers I put back because i was unformfortable using it, it was unsafe.
I was planning on using a bandsaw with a rip fence to cut the slits into the braces.
I was looking at the link scott gave the other day, those are very nice, unfortunately being a freshman in college, i don't think my roomate would be happy with a nice router table in the dorm room and i don't have the money.
m0tion,
I'd like to be able to route into the braces and pannels to fit the braces, but with the tools at the shop, or atleast right now (i just joined the shop last week), i'm uncomfortable to try to route grooves for braces.
Thanks,
Josh
edjosh:
Yeah, seriously though. LOOK at the page, I don't use a router to inter-lock my bracing.
Yeah, seriously though. LOOK at the page, I don't use a router to inter-lock my bracing.
On the pannels I see you have used wood to put the braces between. I was referring to how the braces themselves interlocked with one another. It looks as though a router was used to connect the 2 smaller braces to the large brace. With the current design that I am building I can't afford to decrease vb, but on future projects that would be great, especially subwoofer builds because thicker cabinet walls and would help the braces be tighter. Once I can use my own tools again it would be great.
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks,
Josh
Not so actually, the same method was used to interlock the small braces with the large brace. Cut pieces of MDF and stager them to create gaps on the surfaces that are the same width as your braces thickness. No router used. Click on the panel diagram. It's very clear inside that PDF.
I think Josh was getting at the usual interlocking bracing:
Rather than the channels supporting the edges. Same theme different approach sorta thing.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rather than the channels supporting the edges. Same theme different approach sorta thing.
m0tion,
sorry, didn't check the pdf. Next subwoofer i build i will definately try the multiple layer panels. I never thought of bacing with multiple panels. BrianGT's raven/focal loudspeaker has some very intricate pices and used a router for the braces, i was thinking of bracing the way he did, but i don't have any straigh router bits with 3/4" tip.
shin,
exactly
Thanks,
Josh
sorry, didn't check the pdf. Next subwoofer i build i will definately try the multiple layer panels. I never thought of bacing with multiple panels. BrianGT's raven/focal loudspeaker has some very intricate pices and used a router for the braces, i was thinking of bracing the way he did, but i don't have any straigh router bits with 3/4" tip.
shin,
exactly
Thanks,
Josh
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