That mere 10 volts difference is not worth bothering with, because tube amps are "forgiving" with a wide operating tolerance.
Besides, if the schematic specifies 310, that was at an AC input of 115V, not todays higher 125V which is more common. - the more AC you "pump in" results in more DC at the filters.
Also, the "old specified readings" were done with analog meters that traditionally loaded down circuits - the new VTVM or DVM meters today with their higher impedances don't "load" things like the older stuff did.
Besides, if the schematic specifies 310, that was at an AC input of 115V, not todays higher 125V which is more common. - the more AC you "pump in" results in more DC at the filters.
Also, the "old specified readings" were done with analog meters that traditionally loaded down circuits - the new VTVM or DVM meters today with their higher impedances don't "load" things like the older stuff did.
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Ok so this has been playing music and sounds great! One last thing I'm considering. The negative feedback circuit is such that the OT secondaries need to be all but deadlocked to their load to avoid creating the low frequency loop. [*Story below if interested]. I've now determined that 220 ohm are the largest resistance of my on-hand stock that will "tell" the OT's they're loaded (470 won't) and I'm considering soldering them across the OT secondaries in parallel with the speakers, just so that the amp is stable in itself. That will leave 7.72 ohms for the speakers. I know that theoretically this could alter the sound but I'm willing to live with that. Any other concerns or reasons this should be avoided?
[Edit. See attached. This is the speaker wiring diagram from the schematic. I had not added any of the caps and of course have a single speaker. Could that be why I'm having issues?].
Thanks yet again!
Joe
*I learned this the hard way when after an hour of issue-free listening on a $30/pair speakers, I connected them to my Klipsch RP600m's, which have separate inputs to accommodate bi-amping and a jumper between them used when not bi-amping. About 3-minutes into the first song, that lfo came booming out of the left channel. After a bunch of testing, I discovered that the binding post on the side of the jumper that my speaker was not connected to was loose. Tightening that solved the issue, and I've had no problems since and hours of listening (and it did return, always within 5-10 minutes before I made that adjustment).
[Edit. See attached. This is the speaker wiring diagram from the schematic. I had not added any of the caps and of course have a single speaker. Could that be why I'm having issues?].
Thanks yet again!
Joe
*I learned this the hard way when after an hour of issue-free listening on a $30/pair speakers, I connected them to my Klipsch RP600m's, which have separate inputs to accommodate bi-amping and a jumper between them used when not bi-amping. About 3-minutes into the first song, that lfo came booming out of the left channel. After a bunch of testing, I discovered that the binding post on the side of the jumper that my speaker was not connected to was loose. Tightening that solved the issue, and I've had no problems since and hours of listening (and it did return, always within 5-10 minutes before I made that adjustment).
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Do yourself a favor, and install a 100 ohm 2-5 watt resistor across each speaker output, to insure proper loading, stability, and feedback of that console.
It won't affect the output power delivered to the speakers, whatever you decide to connect.
Those consoles were designed with the speakers in mind, and if you're playing around with other speakers, the poor thing will continue to wonder what the hell you're messing with.
It won't affect the output power delivered to the speakers, whatever you decide to connect.
Those consoles were designed with the speakers in mind, and if you're playing around with other speakers, the poor thing will continue to wonder what the hell you're messing with.
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