Hi Siles,
Gee, that sounds like "High Styles"... In 1991 I was a software engineering manager at IT&T. What were you doing to now use that year in your ID? My son was born in 1972... maybe you are younger? I am a 1947. KopiOkaya is a good guy. He has been very engaging. It is dawning on Sunday morning here in Dallas, Texas (yes, where JFK was killed, in 1963...)
Anyway, I have been building electronics since 1958, when my dad bought me a Heathkit xtal (hip geek speak spelling for crystal) radio kit 🙂 My first soldering of anything, ever. I finally got frustrated and asked my dad to show me how to solder. He did. It is easy, but I needed some info. I had no Google in 1958...
I would reorder the priorities of Kopi's list. I have been building audio stuff to listen to in my home for decades. My priorities are just as arbitrary as any (and EVERY) one else's, but, since they are MINE I like to share them, OK?
OK, first off, many on this list like to buy bigger, fancier power supplies. The simple truth is all that is needed is a Power Supply Filter. It can be in a separate box. Fitting everything into the 2020A+ is a simple style statement. We do not need to cram everything into the same box for any technical reason. The Switching Power Supply can be in the next room. It is regulated DC, it does not care how long the wires to the amp are. The ~12V supply of 2 or 3 amps supplied by some vendors is adequate, but a simple big cap can be attached to the wires from the wall wart to the amp:
Carefully split the two parallel wires apart near the connector (a few inches - to allow the filter network to be close, but moveable) and then cut only the insulation on the (-) wire then bare some copper by pulling the insulation away from the cut and solder the (-) pin or wire of the cap to it.
Then cut only the insulation on the (+) wire farther away from the connector and attach the positive pin or wire to it.
After you have the cap connected, push the insulations back toward the cuts.
I have had my 2020A+ for a few months. I only opened up the case to do some "damage" to the amp itself, last week.
The reason I added the Power Supply Filter first is the Ancient Truth about engineering:
"Garbage IN, Garbage OUT".
Yes, you can change things in the output network in the amp, but, only after you have fixed everything from the power supply filter to that stage, first 😉
And the stuff coming from what ever source you are using cannot be improved, only be made LOUDER, not better. Tone Controls are simple toys for the low tech to try and make the system sound better. They can, but, only up to a certain level... if you are going to waste so much of the rest of your life enjoying playing Audio Design and Implementation Genius, these are some helpful thoughts 😉
Getting Started: when your 2020A+ arrives, admire the beautiful simple package and carefully install it in you current system and turn it on and listen. After a few days (or weeks) of "Break In" you can do some initial things to find out what may need improving.
To check the Power Supply: The TA2020-020 chip can function from 8.5 to 16 volts. In my speakers, 100 dB can be achieved by one watt output. That is 9.48 Volts and 0.3 Amps in my current version of my "Lepai Nano Godzilla Amp" 🙂
(to be continued...)
Al
Gee, that sounds like "High Styles"... In 1991 I was a software engineering manager at IT&T. What were you doing to now use that year in your ID? My son was born in 1972... maybe you are younger? I am a 1947. KopiOkaya is a good guy. He has been very engaging. It is dawning on Sunday morning here in Dallas, Texas (yes, where JFK was killed, in 1963...)
Anyway, I have been building electronics since 1958, when my dad bought me a Heathkit xtal (hip geek speak spelling for crystal) radio kit 🙂 My first soldering of anything, ever. I finally got frustrated and asked my dad to show me how to solder. He did. It is easy, but I needed some info. I had no Google in 1958...
I would reorder the priorities of Kopi's list. I have been building audio stuff to listen to in my home for decades. My priorities are just as arbitrary as any (and EVERY) one else's, but, since they are MINE I like to share them, OK?
OK, first off, many on this list like to buy bigger, fancier power supplies. The simple truth is all that is needed is a Power Supply Filter. It can be in a separate box. Fitting everything into the 2020A+ is a simple style statement. We do not need to cram everything into the same box for any technical reason. The Switching Power Supply can be in the next room. It is regulated DC, it does not care how long the wires to the amp are. The ~12V supply of 2 or 3 amps supplied by some vendors is adequate, but a simple big cap can be attached to the wires from the wall wart to the amp:
Carefully split the two parallel wires apart near the connector (a few inches - to allow the filter network to be close, but moveable) and then cut only the insulation on the (-) wire then bare some copper by pulling the insulation away from the cut and solder the (-) pin or wire of the cap to it.
Then cut only the insulation on the (+) wire farther away from the connector and attach the positive pin or wire to it.
After you have the cap connected, push the insulations back toward the cuts.
I have had my 2020A+ for a few months. I only opened up the case to do some "damage" to the amp itself, last week.
The reason I added the Power Supply Filter first is the Ancient Truth about engineering:
"Garbage IN, Garbage OUT".
Yes, you can change things in the output network in the amp, but, only after you have fixed everything from the power supply filter to that stage, first 😉
And the stuff coming from what ever source you are using cannot be improved, only be made LOUDER, not better. Tone Controls are simple toys for the low tech to try and make the system sound better. They can, but, only up to a certain level... if you are going to waste so much of the rest of your life enjoying playing Audio Design and Implementation Genius, these are some helpful thoughts 😉
Getting Started: when your 2020A+ arrives, admire the beautiful simple package and carefully install it in you current system and turn it on and listen. After a few days (or weeks) of "Break In" you can do some initial things to find out what may need improving.
To check the Power Supply: The TA2020-020 chip can function from 8.5 to 16 volts. In my speakers, 100 dB can be achieved by one watt output. That is 9.48 Volts and 0.3 Amps in my current version of my "Lepai Nano Godzilla Amp" 🙂
(to be continued...)
Al
Al, thanks for the compliment. 😉
I did make a trip to Dallas from Missouri when I went to college there 15 years ago. I was a journalism student then. Went to JFK Memorial. What I saw there really made a lot of sense of what I read in textbooks.
I was born in 1991 and used it as a username and it kind of stuck to me since forever. I got my Lepai together with a 12v 5a adapter. The wire which connects from the socket to the adapter is removable and has parallel wire's so should I assume I should split that and strip the insulation? What caps would I need to get?
I am 22 years your senior.
By the way, I couldn't find anything good in element14. Maybe just stick with RS. Yeah, they cost more but these are good stuff.
Listen to Al. The quality of your incoming power does make a difference with Lepai.
Last edited:
Alright thanks for checking through for me very much appreciated. I'll save up for the first ones you posted 😀 Just started getting into audio on February and my hands just got itchy and I started doing a lot of DIY, messed up a lot have some regrets and frustrating times but yeah had fun.
You MUST be patient. Cannot rush or else either you will make mistakes or something will screw up. Train your ears first. It is easier if you have formal music training.
By the way, DIY does not equate to paying less. In fact, DIY can cost 3 to 4 times more than buying from the stores.
Last edited:
Agreed DIY can cost more than buying from stores but its a lot fun and you gain knowledge. I've spent a lot of time improving my soldering skills. No formal music training but I do enjoy karaoke and learnt a bit of guitar few years back, and have had some degree of vocal instruction.
I love music :3
Beside having good soldering skills, you will need a good iron too. Which iron are you using now?
Before going to college, I went to vocational school to attend a two-year electronic course. I remember our instructor told us having good soldering skills is just a third of the job done. The other two-third are using the right iron and good solder.
Last edited:
currently just using a goot 40w but saving up for a saike 8586d so I have a 50w and also a heat gun. for solder kester is hard to come by so going to try some kaine 63/37 solder
Don't use Goot irons. Their tips are some of the worst I have used. They oxidize quickly and they rust! I suggest you buy a Hakko FX-888D soldering station (made in Malaysia). It receives very good reviews on Amazon. Many vocational schools and polytechnics in Singapore are using this station. If you prefer soldering pencils, try Weller (USA), Ersa (Germany) or Antex (UK). I am using both Antex and Ersa pencils (I prefer the latter). I also have a Weller analog station.
I use Kester lead-free (95% tin, 5% silver) and WBT (96% tin, 4% silver) solders. For terminating cables, I prefer WBT. WBT solder melts fast and has the smoothest flux among all, therefore it doesn't stress the insulators. If you need Kester solder, let me know.
Last edited:
Hello everyone, i'm jar from Indonesia
I got my Lepai for about 2 weeks and for me is really suprising sound it has and worth for price, yesterday i did some caps replace with better on, PSU caps i replaced with PAN FC 4700uF 25v, input caps with Elna 2.2uF 25v and tone control caps with Elna Cerafine 100uF 25v, and it's improved the sound smoother.
But after 10minutes powering i check tripath chip heatsink is more heater than before and if i pushed tone control button it makes clipping sound.
I've checked all my soldering is connect properly, has somebody happen like this?
Thanks in advance,
Jar
I got my Lepai for about 2 weeks and for me is really suprising sound it has and worth for price, yesterday i did some caps replace with better on, PSU caps i replaced with PAN FC 4700uF 25v, input caps with Elna 2.2uF 25v and tone control caps with Elna Cerafine 100uF 25v, and it's improved the sound smoother.
But after 10minutes powering i check tripath chip heatsink is more heater than before and if i pushed tone control button it makes clipping sound.
I've checked all my soldering is connect properly, has somebody happen like this?
Thanks in advance,
Jar
Hi Jar,
Don't worry. Let your Lepai settle down and run-in for about a week. Mine behaves the same too. Everything will be back to normal after some time.
The operation temperature of the amp should be around 30°C (in Singapore).
Last edited:
Thank you KopiOkaya,
Glad to hear this reply, because i'm worrying it will damage tripath chip because of overheating. Then, also one thing i want to know, the pop-off sound while powering on and off is louder now, is it will back to normal after some time i use it also?
TIA,
Jar
Geezer's approach to functional analysis, design, and implementation.
I am amused by the rush to greater power. Horsepower sells. People want to make money. They go for more is better. It is, to some folks. Not all.
Circuit boards are excellent for mass producing products for retail sale.
They are not the best solution for building an audio power amplifier.
Each of us has things which interest us about audio amplifiers. Not all of the interest is listening. There are functional challenges to enjoy by solving. Solutions are just ideas. Nothing is The End. Ideas start more ideas.
It keeps my mind enthused that I can improve some aspect of anything I take the time and energy to consider. I am not competing with other implementations, just improving mine in my eyes (and ears!). Trying to get rich is fun, too, but trying to find better ideas is more fun, to me.
The LP-2020A+ is an idea. It leads me to new ideas.
This is what life is about, in my dotage 🙂
(to be continued...)
I am amused by the rush to greater power. Horsepower sells. People want to make money. They go for more is better. It is, to some folks. Not all.
Circuit boards are excellent for mass producing products for retail sale.
They are not the best solution for building an audio power amplifier.
Each of us has things which interest us about audio amplifiers. Not all of the interest is listening. There are functional challenges to enjoy by solving. Solutions are just ideas. Nothing is The End. Ideas start more ideas.
It keeps my mind enthused that I can improve some aspect of anything I take the time and energy to consider. I am not competing with other implementations, just improving mine in my eyes (and ears!). Trying to get rich is fun, too, but trying to find better ideas is more fun, to me.
The LP-2020A+ is an idea. It leads me to new ideas.
This is what life is about, in my dotage 🙂
(to be continued...)
I have purchased a couple of T-amps over the last year or so, including the famous Lepai, and a reputedly better quality SMSL SA-S1. Both amps ruined FM reception making it unlistenable on my wire indoor antenna.
I have started using an inexpensive TI tpa3116d2 board, no metal box, and there is no FM interference at all! The 2020 amp has been relagated to computer use and it still buggers up my FM from 27 feet away and 2 internal plasterboard walls.
I tried ferrite beads on the speaker wires and different p. supplies but to no avail.
I'm thinking that perhaps the 2020 chip has been superceded by the more modern chips such as the tpa 31XX range which require less components and only a single layer board? The 3116 was introduced last year and is a cracker.
I'm not a tweaker so a reduction of components to swop out is not a concern.
I have started using an inexpensive TI tpa3116d2 board, no metal box, and there is no FM interference at all! The 2020 amp has been relagated to computer use and it still buggers up my FM from 27 feet away and 2 internal plasterboard walls.
I tried ferrite beads on the speaker wires and different p. supplies but to no avail.
I'm thinking that perhaps the 2020 chip has been superceded by the more modern chips such as the tpa 31XX range which require less components and only a single layer board? The 3116 was introduced last year and is a cracker.
I'm not a tweaker so a reduction of components to swop out is not a concern.
This might be a concern for people like me who live in apartments - I have to wonder if any adjacent neighbours are having, er, inexplicable FM-reception problems.
Does this happen at all times that they're powered on, even idling, or only when they're actually amplifying a signal?
My wife and I live in a 82 square meters government apartment. Strangely, I have not encountered any FM interference problems. And none of my neighbors complains so far.
One of my Lepais is placed inches away from a Tivoli Model One FM/AM radio and it didn't pick up any signal abnormalities.
One of my Lepais is placed inches away from a Tivoli Model One FM/AM radio and it didn't pick up any signal abnormalities.
Last edited:
I'll check this out myself as soon as I can - I've ended up with no FM receiver of any kind to hand, after moving at the end of least year. I always used to have a Sharp portable on the shelf (for BBC Radio 4 mostly), but left it behind.
The Lepai at 27ft away produces an audible hiss on FM even with no signal. The SMSL SA-S1 makes FM unlistenable from the same distance.
I even tried a mains isolating transformer without luck. Perhaps it is the tricked out components in the higher priced SMSL that is causing the interference (air coil inductors) ?
I'm more than happy with the TI board so will not bother trying anything further to prevent FM interference from the 2020A's
- Status
- Not open for further replies.