imix,
that link you posted verifies exactly the point i was trying to get at -- When you say underpowering a speaker can cause it to blow -- i take this statement at face value .. i.e, a 10 watt amp CANNOT IN ANY WAY _EVER_ fry a speaker rated for 100 watts. We know from simple calculus (and the link you posted verifies this), that a square wave signal has exactly twice the amount of power as a sine wave signal. If you buy a 100 watt amp and put this on a 100w speaker, and drive the amp into horrible clipping, yes -- you run the risk of driver failure due to excessive heat.
just in general, i like to avoid generalizations like 'underpowering a driver can blow it' because people who do not understand the reasoning behind this simplified explanation get confused very easily. i am not disagreeing with what you are saying, just the way it was said
-chris
that link you posted verifies exactly the point i was trying to get at -- When you say underpowering a speaker can cause it to blow -- i take this statement at face value .. i.e, a 10 watt amp CANNOT IN ANY WAY _EVER_ fry a speaker rated for 100 watts. We know from simple calculus (and the link you posted verifies this), that a square wave signal has exactly twice the amount of power as a sine wave signal. If you buy a 100 watt amp and put this on a 100w speaker, and drive the amp into horrible clipping, yes -- you run the risk of driver failure due to excessive heat.
just in general, i like to avoid generalizations like 'underpowering a driver can blow it' because people who do not understand the reasoning behind this simplified explanation get confused very easily. i am not disagreeing with what you are saying, just the way it was said
-chris
paradise,
i meant not to insult just point out that perhaps he doesnt really know why is he saying what he was
-chris
i meant not to insult just point out that perhaps he doesnt really know why is he saying what he was
-chris
Indeed, you are correct. If properly driven a 10 watt amp cannot damage a driver rated for more than ten watts under anywhere near proper conditions. A good solid driver could probably even take adverse conditions for a very short time, just like a good amp. So I apologise in my wording, it could indeed be misleading. I've just had to replace enough innocent speakers when individuals have tried to get 1000w worth of electro-acoustic or thermo-acoustic power from a 100w amp. And we do live in a world where renal stock is subjected to such conditions. 🙁 It is entirely up to the competency of the operator as to the fate of the equipment under his/her care.
we also live in a world where manufacturers do not have to abide by any standard ratings (ie, standard input voltage, signal used, duration, cooling procedures, load, distortion %). Foruntately, those who know what is going on know what companies to trust, but new guys always get in the mix by buying pyramid and legacy and pyle etc --
-chris
-chris
From what I've seen, in the car audio world this is unfortunately very true. It seems like there are a few companies that make good quality stuff with good published ratings, but at a price- which is the way it usually goes in any audio industry. I heard rumors from a Crown tech a few years back that they were developing a car amp for someone. (may be out already, I havn't followed it) That would be a great amp cause Crown doesn't build crap. Heh, or if they do they fix it, re-release it and give it a different model #.
been out for a while;
only really built for competitors -- normal user cannot afford such a beast
more info here --> http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=BPX2200.1&ser=POS&cat=AMP
-chris
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
only really built for competitors -- normal user cannot afford such a beast
more info here --> http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=BPX2200.1&ser=POS&cat=AMP
-chris
Honestly you guys i dont know if this amp is that great, good am sure but a Signal-to-Noise Ratio of: 67 dBA , thats not that good, even for class D, and the power rating is at 1% THD, i guess for car ICE people thats ok, but in home hi-fi thats not on it all,
At least JBL are honest and i love there older car amps, the GTS range.
I dont want to say this but i saw this amp running 3 JBL subwoofers in a car show in Edinburgh and it didnt sound good at all, am sure the car was only a show car and made for looks but it didnt impress me at all, it was a real let down infact, If you want alot of current and alot of volts get a cheapo Visonik V2908
this is not any better and am not saying its better in anyway, but its has the maths on it side for lots of power, even if it does look silly.
It should be able to dump lots of current into a driver, i may just go for one and let you know what i think of it?
At least JBL are honest and i love there older car amps, the GTS range.
I dont want to say this but i saw this amp running 3 JBL subwoofers in a car show in Edinburgh and it didnt sound good at all, am sure the car was only a show car and made for looks but it didnt impress me at all, it was a real let down infact, If you want alot of current and alot of volts get a cheapo Visonik V2908
this is not any better and am not saying its better in anyway, but its has the maths on it side for lots of power, even if it does look silly.
It should be able to dump lots of current into a driver, i may just go for one and let you know what i think of it?
Hi Bull
Have you had a fusion amp?
I like the look of the audiobahn gear but only the big stuff is any good am told, The fusion is not really a big hitter, and the speakers are just not that good am told.
Have you hear or seen the visonik amps, there speakers are rubbish but the amps seem to be doing well on the SPL market, not that i care for that, as i like my hearing! who do you think has the best Value amp, the biggest bang for your buck!? and JBL's GT6000 just dont count, that cost more than my car! somthing under 2K ok!
Have you had a fusion amp?
I like the look of the audiobahn gear but only the big stuff is any good am told, The fusion is not really a big hitter, and the speakers are just not that good am told.
Have you hear or seen the visonik amps, there speakers are rubbish but the amps seem to be doing well on the SPL market, not that i care for that, as i like my hearing! who do you think has the best Value amp, the biggest bang for your buck!? and JBL's GT6000 just dont count, that cost more than my car! somthing under 2K ok!
Lol
That is a load of nonsense a heavily clipped amp can blow any speaker no matter the wattage.
And I know this because I had a really crappy Sherwood 50w rms amp which fried a 300w rms Eminence Delta 15 pa speaker when driven into clipping.
That is a load of nonsense a heavily clipped amp can blow any speaker no matter the wattage.
And I know this because I had a really crappy Sherwood 50w rms amp which fried a 300w rms Eminence Delta 15 pa speaker when driven into clipping.
reply
Paradise_Ice. Nope i've never had a Fusion amp,but my m8 has a 1 Fusion and 1 Rockford Fosgate amp in his car and he really likes the Fusion amp a lot.He saying that it has cooling fans,good protection circuity and crystal clear clean sound.
Paradise_Ice. Nope i've never had a Fusion amp,but my m8 has a 1 Fusion and 1 Rockford Fosgate amp in his car and he really likes the Fusion amp a lot.He saying that it has cooling fans,good protection circuity and crystal clear clean sound.
Bull, that's pretty much what we were saying. You were trying to get or expecting to get 300w worth of spl from 50w of available power. That's speaker abuse man!😀
speaking of overloading drivers, I have two 10's in the car rated at about 50 watts RMS and driven by 170 watts each RMS and still alive and pounding. 🙂
djQUAN said:
Yes but if you over drive a woofer you soften the suspension on it long term, and the RMS on most woofers is what the linear X max is, give more only gets more distortion,IMO, and beside there are many factors like the box size which changes the power rating more than anything else on a woofer, right. It just depends on how effcient the coil and magnet system are in your woofers,
The greater the sensitivity the less power we need and thats the key to great sound and and easy load
And they will keep pounding for some time- unless you get crazy and open up the amp all the way with full input and it does provide 150w and the speakers in fact cannot take more than 50w for a long period of time. Several variables there for the destruction of your subs.🙂 Look at any good system design- car, pa, home and the amps will always be more powerful than needed. Reserve energy is a great thing for the life of the amp (it runs cooler) and the load it's driving. If the load impedance droops a bit the amp has some extra muscle to push it along rather than give every ounce of it's being to drive the load for that few ms or so. 😀
what do you guys think of this amp?
I intent to rip its guts out and replace the fets with high power ones and get bigger transformers and up the power rails, has anybody tried anything like this on this kind of amp?
I dont want to waste money but it looks like its a good foundation to make a very powerful amp, the quality of the parts is a little on the low side for me, Nichicon and Elna capacitors i will use and i need to decide on what kind of FET's to use? any ideas[http://store2.yimg.com/I/millionbuy_1795_20103695
I intent to rip its guts out and replace the fets with high power ones and get bigger transformers and up the power rails, has anybody tried anything like this on this kind of amp?
I dont want to waste money but it looks like its a good foundation to make a very powerful amp, the quality of the parts is a little on the low side for me, Nichicon and Elna capacitors i will use and i need to decide on what kind of FET's to use? any ideas[http://store2.yimg.com/I/millionbuy_1795_20103695
- Status
- Not open for further replies.