Left - SubWoofer - Right Crossover

[Ford_V6]

Hy.

I want to make this kind of crossover to connect a 12" sub and two sattelites (8" mid + TW) to the power amp.

All the speakers are 8 ohm.

Now. . . i would like the crossover to cut at 150 Hz. The sub must play what's under 150 Hz and the sattelites the rest.

What values would you recommend me for C and L in this case.

I have 64uF and 1.7 mH. Are these values right ?

Do you know a better method to connect these speakers to a stereo power amp ?


Thanks,

 

[moamps]

Hi,

your schematic can not work; sub play only diference between L and R channel, Left MTW is out of phase.

Regards

 

[Ford_V6]

Ok, thanks

Now how can i still connect a subwoofer and two sattelites to a stereo amp ?

A link, a schematic something ?


Regards,

 

[pinkmouse]

Hi Ford

I have never seen a passive crossover that will sum the bass from two channels .

Your options are to buy a dual voice coil sub driver, and use a circuit similar to the one below, (this crosses over 1st order 100Hz, and I would not recommend going higher for a single sub), or go active and build a PLLXO from Planet 10's site and get another amp.

 

[audioPT]

Simple:

Just do this;

1- in one chanel, insert a inverter before the input of the amplifier, using a simple opamp.
2- in the output if this channel, invert the polarity of the speaker.

Here you have the 'magic of this':

connect the sub to the + outputs of both channels.
You can still use the crossovers you design.

😎 😎 😎

Any comments from moamps and pinkmouse? 😉 😉

This is a simple configuration of car audio amplifiers 🙄

Pedro Martins

 

[moamps]

Any comments from moamps and pinkmouse? 😉 😉

Hi, Pedro

Idea is OK. But, if somebody has knowledge to install inverter between preamp and amp, I think that better idea is implementation active sub.
In passive combination anyway you have big work to do; from huge choke for sub and rest of world to adjustment levels between. Simplest way is active.IMHO

Regards

 

[pinkmouse]

Idea is OK. But, if somebody has knowledge to install inverter between preamp and amp, I think that better idea is implementation active sub.
In passive combination anyway you have big work to do; from huge choke for sub and rest of world to adjustment levels between. Simplest way is active.

Seconded😉

 

[audioPT]

Of course active is the best way.

But I'm only thinking in low cost for Ford_V6😉
The implementation of an opamp it's very easy, right?

If cost isn't important, go active!

Regards

Pedro Martins

 

[Ford_V6]

Ok

Thanks, i will go active.

I was thinking in using a bridge configuration of the TDA7294 for the power stage.

Or is better a discrete amp ?

What do you think ?

 

[audioPT]

Go! 😉

The better way to don't waste time is using bridged TDA's

Pedro Martins

 

[moamps]

Hi,

bridged TDA7294 work very good in subs (with appropriate heatsink), but nominal impedance of speaker can not be smaller then 8ohms.

Regards

 

[Ford_V6]

I want to drive a 12" 8 ohm subwoofer.

Is better to brigde two TDA7293V than brigde the 7294 ?

 

[Ford_V6]

This is the driver i want to power. What do you think about it' ?

Is this driver any good ?


Specs :
Brand: Senon
Model- DYF1270-35
Size - 12"
Magnet weight - 60oz
Voice Coil - 2"
Max.Power - 300W
Frequency Response - 30-1KHz
Sensitivity - (1W/1M): 92dB

 

[moamps]

I want to drive a 12" 8 ohm subwoofer.

Is better to brigde two TDA7293V than brigde the 7294 ?

Hi,

I prefer TDA7293.

Regards

 

[audioPT]

Don't forget to make a good box fot that sub!

Pedro Martins

 

[Ford_V6]

I will !