Yes, it's phosphorescence, but not a permanent glow, as I read in russc's statements.
Best regards!
Just as I see it, without any opposition of any kind compared to other different views, it is even simpler to replace the bulb with one from a well-known brand.
That way you do not intervene in any way on the electrical system and you may also hopefully have proof that the electrical system itself is in order (which would definitely be good news).
If it doesn't work then I would intervene by modifying the pre-existing electrical connections by adding a suitable capacitor as already suggested.
I had a permanent glow problem on one single switched light and a few other issues. It turned out that when my meter was upgraded to a smartmeter, Live and Neutral got swapped. Fun as that meant all my MCBs were in the neutral legs. Got that corrected and my lights now turn truly off.
!I see it's been a while since this was posted, but I just wanted to ask—did anyone try putting a resistor across the switch terminals to bleed off the stray voltage? I had a similar issue and a 100kΩ resistor did the trick. Curious if anyone has looked into possible capacitive coupling in the wiring too, especially with long runs in conduit or multi-way switching setups.
Hi yozimen, just to let you know: something similar happened to me too with led lamp: I solved it by inverting the electrical wire Live and Neutral . un saluto to everyone. Ros
I assumed this was the case for me.
2-way switching, top & bottom of stairs hence long cable run.
I set up a bank of LED lights for growing seedlings and keeping some plants alive over the winter. The only place we had room to do this was in our bedroom. I put all the LEDs on a timer so I could set and forget, and just worry about occasionally watering. But when we got into bed and turned out the room light on the first night I noticed that the LED lamps were still faintly glowing. In the end I tracked it down to the timer - the switch was an SSD which has some current leakage and is not ever 100% off. I could not find a timer with a standard reed or mechanical relay and I did not want to try to manually add one, so the only solution was to remove the timer and manually unplug the lamps each night at bedtime. The funny thing was that I had two types of lamps: one with 3000K and the other with 5000K color temperature, and only the 3000K glowed. Perhaps the 5000K were just extremely dim and even in a dark room could not be seen, or they needed more current or voltage to illuminate.
Modern timers need some sort of non-solid state load. Like an small old incandescent bulb or Xmas tree string.
I think that, an home electrical system may occur some 'little current returns' ( or loss ); I talking about some milliAmperes...not enough to cause switch-off of upstream protection ( for example, differential protection in italian domestic systems switch at value=>30mA ) , but enough to start a modern LED lighting ( high efficiency LEDs start to light up with just a few milliamps ). saluto to everyone Ros