I'm building surround speaker shelves out of glass or plexi (haven't decided yet). What I want to do with them is have them glow slightly with led light (blue prolly). What I was thinking of doing is getting either the glass or plexi thick enough so i'm able to drill (dremel) a hole big enough into the edge of the material to tuck an led light inside therefore lighting the shelf and hopefully looking cool.. I've read a little bit about the simple circuitry involved with lighting a single led and somewhat understand it. Am I stuck with building a simple circuit with a double a battery and hiding it away behind the speaker or would I be able to power the led by running a small led of wire coming from the surround speakers to power it?
😕
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Find a glass shop (or plexi) and get a small sample.
Use krazy glue to glue the led to the edge of the glass. That way the light will go into the glass. Use flat faced LED's or cut the rounded part off.
Then if the edges of the glass are frosted the light will show up on the edges.
Is this what you were thinking about?
Use krazy glue to glue the led to the edge of the glass. That way the light will go into the glass. Use flat faced LED's or cut the rounded part off.
Then if the edges of the glass are frosted the light will show up on the edges.
Is this what you were thinking about?
You can.
At max expected power:
(Vpk-2V) / .03 = resistor in series with LED.
The LED won't blow up but may not light very much at low levels.
Have fun.
At max expected power:
(Vpk-2V) / .03 = resistor in series with LED.
The LED won't blow up but may not light very much at low levels.
Have fun.
led lit shelving
gotcha.....so I might be better off picking out an led that requires less voltage i take it? would i be better off not running a resistor inline? I know it may cause the led to burn out prematurely but i just don't want to increase the load on the amp too much....
pardon the out of context smiley....just had a Hoegaarden ale....
gotcha.....so I might be better off picking out an led that requires less voltage i take it? would i be better off not running a resistor inline? I know it may cause the led to burn out prematurely but i just don't want to increase the load on the amp too much....
pardon the out of context smiley....just had a Hoegaarden ale....
Not running a resistor inline with the LED would cause more of a problem...much more.
Use the formula I suggested and look at the value of the resistor.
I think you will find it will not load an 8 ohm system down too much.
example:
An 8W into 8R is 11.312Vp.
9.312/.03 = 311R
I don't think that will be an issue for an 8R output.
Or look at it this way:
8W is 1.414Ap
0.03Ap is a 2.1% change in loading.
I doubt if your speaker impedance is withing 2% of 8R at all frequencies.
Math is a wonderful thing.
🙂
led lit shelving
Dug, if you wouldn't mind....
could you run by me what the letters mean in the formulas below? I hope I didn't mislead when i mentioned i understood a little about the wiring of led's ....I'm just not that familiar with the abbreviations as far as this stuff goes...
I gather W is watt and R is resistance? maybe? not too clear on AP...
and if you could would you mind running through an example for me? I'm running 6 ohm surrounds and the channels are good from 4 to 6 ohms. the amp is capable of 110 per channel....
thanks again ....i appreciate the help on this..... 🙂
Dug, if you wouldn't mind....
could you run by me what the letters mean in the formulas below? I hope I didn't mislead when i mentioned i understood a little about the wiring of led's ....I'm just not that familiar with the abbreviations as far as this stuff goes...
I gather W is watt and R is resistance? maybe? not too clear on AP...
and if you could would you mind running through an example for me? I'm running 6 ohm surrounds and the channels are good from 4 to 6 ohms. the amp is capable of 110 per channel....
thanks again ....i appreciate the help on this..... 🙂
W watts power...is RMS or root mean square...this is the equivalent in heating power in a resistor.
A is amperes (actually a large quantity of electrons per unit of time passing through your circuit) and is also rms unless specifier as Ap = Amperes peak or Ap-p = Amperes peak to peak. I is also used for Amperes in equations.
Similar is V is Electromotive force...AKA Voltage and is RMS but can also be labeled as peak or peak to peak. Sometimes E is also used for voltage.
Normally in audio usage we are talking about a sine wave. That way simple formulae can be used.
Vp = V * 1.414 or V = Vp*.707
Vp-p = Vp * 2 = V * 2.828
You can substitute A in the above equations.
W = V * I
W = V^2 / R
W = I^2 * R
I = V / R
R = V / I
V = I * R
And then there is impedance...
🙂
A is amperes (actually a large quantity of electrons per unit of time passing through your circuit) and is also rms unless specifier as Ap = Amperes peak or Ap-p = Amperes peak to peak. I is also used for Amperes in equations.
Similar is V is Electromotive force...AKA Voltage and is RMS but can also be labeled as peak or peak to peak. Sometimes E is also used for voltage.
Normally in audio usage we are talking about a sine wave. That way simple formulae can be used.
Vp = V * 1.414 or V = Vp*.707
Vp-p = Vp * 2 = V * 2.828
You can substitute A in the above equations.
W = V * I
W = V^2 / R
W = I^2 * R
I = V / R
R = V / I
V = I * R
And then there is impedance...
🙂
shelving
Dug
I think i'm getting it. As long as i have the values for voltage, watts, and ohms I should be able to figure this out. can we go over the ohms bit? It's what I'm concerned with at the most (just don't want to blow up my amp...😱)
Thanks!
Dug
I think i'm getting it. As long as i have the values for voltage, watts, and ohms I should be able to figure this out. can we go over the ohms bit? It's what I'm concerned with at the most (just don't want to blow up my amp...😱)
Thanks!
Sometimes it might be useful to know the max. voltage U that a resistor can be connected to without exceeding its heat dissipation limit. With a little bit of manipulation, the formula becomes
U = √(P * R)
where P is the rated power dissipation of the resistor in Watts and R is the resistance of the resistor in Ohms.
U = √(P * R)
where P is the rated power dissipation of the resistor in Watts and R is the resistance of the resistor in Ohms.
Start with:
How many watts is your system supposed to be?
Then do the math provided by d1030180 (thanks for the √ symbol)
U = √(P * R)
(BTW, U is also used for voltage)
This will give you the RMS output voltage.
Then: Vp = V * 1.414
Now you can calculate the resistor needed for your LED.
🙂
How many watts is your system supposed to be?
Then do the math provided by d1030180 (thanks for the √ symbol)
U = √(P * R)
(BTW, U is also used for voltage)
This will give you the RMS output voltage.
Then: Vp = V * 1.414
Now you can calculate the resistor needed for your LED.
🙂
What DUG is proposing will make the LED flash along with the bass, which I don't think you would want in the long run....?
For prototyping you might try running a string of 3-4 LEDs in series from a 'dead' 9V battery...
For prototyping you might try running a string of 3-4 LEDs in series from a 'dead' 9V battery...
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