Hi,
Not sure how to call that in English: a hole that is not going all the way through.
I would like to insert a LED in such hole in order to have some indicator that the power is ON. The panel where the LED is supposed to fit is made of black plexi (8mm thick from toroidy.pl). Wondering if the light of the LED (12V model) will be visible by leaving few mm of plexi in front of it.
Has anyone tried that? How much plexi should remain in front of the LED (1-2-3mm?)?
Not sure how to call that in English: a hole that is not going all the way through.
I would like to insert a LED in such hole in order to have some indicator that the power is ON. The panel where the LED is supposed to fit is made of black plexi (8mm thick from toroidy.pl). Wondering if the light of the LED (12V model) will be visible by leaving few mm of plexi in front of it.
Has anyone tried that? How much plexi should remain in front of the LED (1-2-3mm?)?
Indeed!
In point of fact the protective sheets are still on. It's rather not transparent. Was hoping that someone tried that before. Would like to avoid to make a through hole. Just need a small lighting to indicate that it's ON, not a bright light.
In point of fact the protective sheets are still on. It's rather not transparent. Was hoping that someone tried that before. Would like to avoid to make a through hole. Just need a small lighting to indicate that it's ON, not a bright light.
I'd use a 3mm LED.
Drill hole to suit.
Drill larger hole for body of LED to enter so tip is barely proud of panel face.
Hot melt glue into position.
Use a 2.54mm female header for connection.
Experiment with series resistor so brightness suits your preference.
You could always try first with not quite breaking through the hole - if it doesn't work, drill through.
A 3mm LED, just proud of surface is pretty subtle.
Drill hole to suit.
Drill larger hole for body of LED to enter so tip is barely proud of panel face.
Hot melt glue into position.
Use a 2.54mm female header for connection.
Experiment with series resistor so brightness suits your preference.
You could always try first with not quite breaking through the hole - if it doesn't work, drill through.
A 3mm LED, just proud of surface is pretty subtle.
A 3mm LED, just proud of surface is pretty subtle.
Yes, it's what I'm looking for.
Will wait a bit to see if someone tried that on toroidy cases, otherwise it's what I plan to do.
I took a different approach to the same Toroidy enclosures with black 8mm acryllic front.
On my Pass X-One clone I used the 2 LED´s in the relay circuit, glued 2mm optical fiber on top of them (could be 1 or 3mm depending on your flavour), flattened the end of the fibers to "matte" with fine sandpaper and put them through 2 x 2mm holes in the acryllic front, so they perfectly align with the surface. It is very hard to see, when the power is of..... and when it´s on:
On my Pass X-One clone I used the 2 LED´s in the relay circuit, glued 2mm optical fiber on top of them (could be 1 or 3mm depending on your flavour), flattened the end of the fibers to "matte" with fine sandpaper and put them through 2 x 2mm holes in the acryllic front, so they perfectly align with the surface. It is very hard to see, when the power is of..... and when it´s on:
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Also, if you try it and it turns out that the plexi is too opaque, you don't have to resort to drilling through with the full diameter. You can just drill a pinhole the rest of the way through; that may be closer to the look you are after.
Boydk,
Don't have optical fiber around but it's a nice rendering.
Leadbelly,
Yes, like the pinhole solution too. Wondering how small is my smallest drill.
Don't have optical fiber around but it's a nice rendering.
Leadbelly,
Yes, like the pinhole solution too. Wondering how small is my smallest drill.
@ Boydk,
[Before to remove the protective sheets.]
Since you have similar enclosures; regarding nironiro's comment, how would you define the toroidy black front panel: transparent, semi transparent or not transparent at all?
[Before to remove the protective sheets.]
Since you have similar enclosures; regarding nironiro's comment, how would you define the toroidy black front panel: transparent, semi transparent or not transparent at all?
Fishing line. Or strimmer cord.Boydk,
Don't have optical fiber around
Not-through hole = blind hole!
The toroidy black plexy is not transparent.
Managed to mix pinhole and proud of surface LED. The hole remains a blind hole leaving a small red dot visible only when it's ON.
The toroidy black plexy is not transparent.
Managed to mix pinhole and proud of surface LED. The hole remains a blind hole leaving a small red dot visible only when it's ON.
@ Boydk,
[Before to remove the protective sheets.]
Since you have similar enclosures; regarding nironiro's comment, how would you define the toroidy black front panel: transparent, semi transparent or not transparent at all?
I guess, I´ll call it "not transparent at all".
And as "akward" said, fishing line is a fine substitute, which you can get in your preferred size/thickness. Another approach could be to butcher a Toslink cable 🙂
I guess, I´ll call it "not transparent at all".
And as "akward" said, fishing line is a fine substitute, which you can get in your preferred size/thickness. Another approach could be to butcher a Toslink cable 🙂
Indeed, "not transparent at all". Thought I would see the light from the LEDs inside the amplifier, but nothing is going through.
Agree regarding 'akward' proposal to use a fishing line instead. Good tip.
As noted above, I managed to get a small red dot visible only when the amplifier is ON. Drilled for the 3mm LED first then finished very near the surface with a tiny conical drill. No hot glue, the LED legs are kept tight against the panel with some strong tape.
Will try to do the same with the second chassis/front panel.
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