Leather baffles ...

I've used Faux Leather on the body rather than the baffle, inspired by the Sonus Faber Luminas. It could be done on the baffles, but the corners would be a challenge, takes practice and patience, but well worth the effort if done right.

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After more thought, pre stretching the leathers over a similarly shaped, perhaps slightly over sized form will persuade the leather to hold that shape. If not hold it it will remember it until time to install it. Or perhaps going to progressively slightly larger forms to stretch it slower to not distort the natural look of the grain attempting it at once.

Slight increments in form size and favorable atmospheric conditions either man made or natural will speed up the process somewhat. Steam is used to make leather more pliable. Perhaps it aids with both.

In my mind that seems like it should work. If the leather holds that baffles shape or mostly holds it. Some good suitable adhesive might be all that's left to do.

Form sizes are important. Of course you don't want it too loose it would like like crap. Ideally you want it just right and with enough natural elasticity left in it to make it hug tight. That part requires some experimenting and trials. But I'm almost willing to bet it would get it done.

The adhesive would have to be slow acting otherwise the above paragraph need not apply, it wouldn't work it would tack up and grab if you use ordinary typical glues. And not allow it to recoil and tighten up and hug the baffle. Corners included.

WF big props on that sub btw.

Perhaps there is no trick folding or hokus pokus involved whatsoever.
 
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Shouldn't be all that hard I would just make sure to use .5mm leather also would need to use a water based glue that can be reactivated with heat. You could also use thicker veg tan and skive around the holes till your down to .5mm or so then just wet it and mold it into place with the driver.
 
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I’ve built many things out of leather from speakers to sporrans to falconry hoods…fun diy but as has been stated, specialty tools, techniques and materials. If you need sewing (edges, seams,etc) find a cobbler (also a good source for materials), if you want leather but don’t want to figure out how take your speakers to an automotive interior shop. Exotic leathers are very appealing (deer, ostrich, rattlesnake) and very difficult to work with
 
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My DIY Ariel Mk 3 (post #20)



Looking at these MDF boxes as examples- think of the top of my speaker as the inside of this box. (not as much ht)
I made my speakers with additional length sides, with top & bottom (same ht inside). I think I added 1".
Vinyl Leather glued (spray glue) & stapled. External crossover box.
Top Oak (outside dimension) with a 3/4' MDF plate (inside dimension-fits inside the opening).
Attached Oak & MDF (routered edges on oak & mdf).
(top down >Oak & MDF, space, MDF speaker box)
Rubber mallet press fit.
 

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You may use a schalm machine to shave off the edges of the leather, to make them thinner. It is an important technique in leather manufacturing.
Thats what I was referring to, with no idea of the name for it. My uncle kept horses his whole life I remember seeing him use them (on cured cow hide not the horses)

WF id like to tickle your ear about that sub. Sorry for the OT bit OP.
 
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I finished the baffle of my Troels Gravesen's SEAS 3-Way Classic Mk II with black leather.

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I made up the baffle separately to the rest of the box, stretched the leather over the front then slid it into place just inside the cherry outer casing, so that the edges of the leather were out of sight. It was tricky, especially with the stepped baffle, but it ended up looking reasonable attractive.

Alex