Hi Keit,
Nope, never saw a thermistor in guitar amplifiers either. Home amplifiers did have some. PA amplifiers almost none, and the couple I did see were probably not original to the amplifier.
When life gets rough for these thermistors, you tend to see two angled leads crossing near each other, maybe with gray powder residue on them.
-Chris
Nope, never saw a thermistor in guitar amplifiers either. Home amplifiers did have some. PA amplifiers almost none, and the couple I did see were probably not original to the amplifier.
When life gets rough for these thermistors, you tend to see two angled leads crossing near each other, maybe with gray powder residue on them.
-Chris
Yes. Sometimes the thermistor material is still there, but there's a 10 mm or so gap in the middle.
I do want to up C12 to 100uF and will look at putting the C130 in to protect the rectifier.. by the way should should replacement caps for C10/C11/C12/C13 be 500WV or will 400-450WV be sufficient? I may go for these low ESR highr ripple current Panasonics EEUEE2W470S - PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS - Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor, EE Series, 47 µF, ± 20%, 450 V, 18 mm, Radial Leaded | Farnell element14
afroaudio, I did exactly that to my first Stereo 20 about two decades ago. 😀
Also, I used 47uF/450V axial cap as first cap after GZ34 (mounted underneath) and exchanged both dual section electrolytics for dual 100uF/350V Black Gates. New polypropylene coupling caps, 1W metal film Beyschlag resistors, decent binding posts and input connectors. And that was it. One of the most intimate sounding amps that I ever had. Still kicking myself for selling it.
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