Noob here. I stripped my LCD today and have a couple of questions. It took about 20 minutes and was very easy. First, here's the monitor's specs:
Mag InnoVision LT565
Display type Flat panel display:TFT active matrix
Display (projector) diagonal size 15 in
Viewable screen size 15 in
Compatibility PC, Mac
Width 12 in
Height 9 in
Controls Phase,, Contrast,, H/V size,, Brightness,, H/V position,
Image:
Max resolution 1024 x 768
Dot pitch 0.3 mm
Image brightness 200 cd/m2
Display (projector) image contrast ratio 350:1
Max vertical view angle 120
Max horizontal view angle 140
Max sync rate (V x H) 75 Hz x 60 KHz
Video Input:
Input device type None
Analog video signal RGB
Power:
Power device type Power adapter
Power consumption operational 40 Watt
Here are some pictures (note: I did not do any of the disassembly on the bed as to avoid ESD. This was just for pictures.) LCD still works with all it's display controls.
I need to extend the connection boxed in red so the boards can flip away from the lcd.
Will I have a hard time finding an extender for this or will I have to make something myself? It looks like the other connectors have plenty of length.
Here's what was left
Mag InnoVision LT565
Display type Flat panel display:TFT active matrix
Display (projector) diagonal size 15 in
Viewable screen size 15 in
Compatibility PC, Mac
Width 12 in
Height 9 in
Controls Phase,, Contrast,, H/V size,, Brightness,, H/V position,
Image:
Max resolution 1024 x 768
Dot pitch 0.3 mm
Image brightness 200 cd/m2
Display (projector) image contrast ratio 350:1
Max vertical view angle 120
Max horizontal view angle 140
Max sync rate (V x H) 75 Hz x 60 KHz
Video Input:
Input device type None
Analog video signal RGB
Power:
Power device type Power adapter
Power consumption operational 40 Watt
Here are some pictures (note: I did not do any of the disassembly on the bed as to avoid ESD. This was just for pictures.) LCD still works with all it's display controls.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I need to extend the connection boxed in red so the boards can flip away from the lcd.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Will I have a hard time finding an extender for this or will I have to make something myself? It looks like the other connectors have plenty of length.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's what was left
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
FFC extenders
Looks a lot like my ProView monitor. I think you need a 9" extension for your FFC. I used a 6" + a 3" extender to get mine connected. You can buy the parts you need from the DIY projection stores (ie. lumenlab.com), or you can buy from mouser.com or digikey.com for a few dollars less.
First step is to count your FFC contacts. I think yours is probably 20 pins. It is a 0.5 mm pitch.
Then go to mouser.com, and look for the catalog page for Molex FFC, 0.5 mm pitch. I just found:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/623/1002.pdf
To make an extender, you need one of the Figure C connectors and one of the Figure D cables. For example, to make a 20 pin 6" extender, get one 538-52559-2092 connector and one 538-21020-0215 cable. You lock one end of the cable into the socket on your driver board, then you use the connector to hold the other end of the new cable against the end of your existing cable. You do that by slipping both cable's ends into the connector, with the contacts facing each other, and then pushing in the lock. Since you will probably need 9" of extension, you can also get another connector and a 3" cable. You daisy chain them together to make an extender as long as you need.
BTW: Those big FFCs that connect the driver boards to the glass are delicate. You need to get the LCD and driver boards mounted in a solid frame ASAP, so the boards are not flopping around loose. Lots of people have lost an LCD by breaking one of those FFC connections, and had to start all over with a new monitor!
Looks a lot like my ProView monitor. I think you need a 9" extension for your FFC. I used a 6" + a 3" extender to get mine connected. You can buy the parts you need from the DIY projection stores (ie. lumenlab.com), or you can buy from mouser.com or digikey.com for a few dollars less.
First step is to count your FFC contacts. I think yours is probably 20 pins. It is a 0.5 mm pitch.
Then go to mouser.com, and look for the catalog page for Molex FFC, 0.5 mm pitch. I just found:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/623/1002.pdf
To make an extender, you need one of the Figure C connectors and one of the Figure D cables. For example, to make a 20 pin 6" extender, get one 538-52559-2092 connector and one 538-21020-0215 cable. You lock one end of the cable into the socket on your driver board, then you use the connector to hold the other end of the new cable against the end of your existing cable. You do that by slipping both cable's ends into the connector, with the contacts facing each other, and then pushing in the lock. Since you will probably need 9" of extension, you can also get another connector and a 3" cable. You daisy chain them together to make an extender as long as you need.
BTW: Those big FFCs that connect the driver boards to the glass are delicate. You need to get the LCD and driver boards mounted in a solid frame ASAP, so the boards are not flopping around loose. Lots of people have lost an LCD by breaking one of those FFC connections, and had to start all over with a new monitor!
Thanks for the very informative response and the part #s. I should have been more clear in that I was concerned that the FFC width on fixed side is wider than on the clipped side and did not know what the pitch is
The best I can count from the wider side is 18, but I am still concerned about the pitch. .5mm seems to be the most common, so I'll bank on that.
BTW - I am letting the boards rest in their original position as to not flex the other FFCs.
Thanks again Guy.
The best I can count from the wider side is 18, but I am still concerned about the pitch. .5mm seems to be the most common, so I'll bank on that.
BTW - I am letting the boards rest in their original position as to not flex the other FFCs.
Thanks again Guy.
wider end of FFC
The geometry of the wider end of the FFC does not matter at all. You leave that end attached to the board, and just add an extender to the narrow end. Look at the underside of the narrow end with a magnifier. Place a millimeter ruler right up against it. You should be able to count the contacts (not the spaces between them!). You should also see that they line up so every other contact is aligned with a millimeter mark on the ruler.
The geometry of the wider end of the FFC does not matter at all. You leave that end attached to the board, and just add an extender to the narrow end. Look at the underside of the narrow end with a magnifier. Place a millimeter ruler right up against it. You should be able to count the contacts (not the spaces between them!). You should also see that they line up so every other contact is aligned with a millimeter mark on the ruler.
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