Hi all,
I've just aquired a Mitsubishi lvp-120 LCd Projector with a view to retrofitting a cheap bulb into it
I have a little problem though before i can even think about starting the project......
The FFC connectors on the PCB are snapped, this appears to be causing really strange image effects to happen ie;
Picture is overly blue
strange lines running down the screen
etc...
When i push down hard on the cables I get a stable picture but still overly blue, anyuone know if the broken connectors are going to be the problem??
There are three of these ribbon cables in total, and they each appear to connect to a R, G or B LCD - At least thats what it looks like, someone correct me if i'm wrong!
Is it going to be worth trying to resolder connectors by hand or is it a job for the pros?
I've just aquired a Mitsubishi lvp-120 LCd Projector with a view to retrofitting a cheap bulb into it
I have a little problem though before i can even think about starting the project......
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The FFC connectors on the PCB are snapped, this appears to be causing really strange image effects to happen ie;
Picture is overly blue
strange lines running down the screen
etc...
When i push down hard on the cables I get a stable picture but still overly blue, anyuone know if the broken connectors are going to be the problem??
There are three of these ribbon cables in total, and they each appear to connect to a R, G or B LCD - At least thats what it looks like, someone correct me if i'm wrong!
Is it going to be worth trying to resolder connectors by hand or is it a job for the pros?
I'm no 'pro' but I'd try to get an fcc extension from lumenlab.com and replace the damaged one... you should be alright.
Its not the ribbon cable that is broken, it's the actual connecter it plugs into 🙁
Anyone any ideas?
Anyone any ideas?
If it were me I'd try to find a replacement connector and fit it to the board. I don't know where you would buy such a connector. I'd just go looking through my pile of scrap PCBs (particularly laptop PCBs) for a replacement. Replacing the connector would be easier than soldering directly to the ribbon cable.
It is possible to solder wirewrap wire directly to the ribbon cable (I have done it in the past to repair a damaged harddisk), but I don't recommend it as anything other than a last resort. It is very easy to over heat the ribbon cable and damage adjacent conductors. If you do decide to solder directly to the ribbon get some scrap cables to practice on first. You'll only have
It is possible to solder wirewrap wire directly to the ribbon cable (I have done it in the past to repair a damaged harddisk), but I don't recommend it as anything other than a last resort. It is very easy to over heat the ribbon cable and damage adjacent conductors. If you do decide to solder directly to the ribbon get some scrap cables to practice on first. You'll only have
I've found a PCB repair company that is willing to do it for about £60
Might scout around for cheaper unless anyone knows anyone else in the UK that is cheaper?
Also, do you think this will solve my image problems?
Also, the colour red being out of line with everything else, is there a way to recalibrate this?
Might scout around for cheaper unless anyone knows anyone else in the UK that is cheaper?
Also, do you think this will solve my image problems?
Also, the colour red being out of line with everything else, is there a way to recalibrate this?
DIY ?
If you want to try to repair it yourself by desoldering the broken connector and soldering on a new one, here's your connector..
20 pin FFC connector
It is top contact, 20 pin, .50mm pitch, which is what yours looks like.
Less than one dollar.
I love mouser.com.
If you want to try to repair it yourself by desoldering the broken connector and soldering on a new one, here's your connector..
20 pin FFC connector
It is top contact, 20 pin, .50mm pitch, which is what yours looks like.
Less than one dollar.
I love mouser.com.
Are all three damaged/missing the part that holds the cable tight? I would try something nonconductive like a piece of matchbook cover under the connection to see if that would give you a image without the distortion/lines. If the lcd for one color gets no signal it will be transparent and color the entire image with that color. If you move the pj around can you hear anything? that part may be floating around inside. If the matchbook thing works you could by several of the connectors and use the clamp (?) from one until you find someone that can solder the connector on properly for less than £60. If it's just a mechanical connection problem maybe you can reinforce the connecter in some way. If one color of the image is not aligned then likely the lcd is not aligned. There should be some screws on the lcd housing to adjust it. Unfortunately there's a fair chance that they were glued in place at the factory.
Updates!
I've sent the soldering company some pictures of the connectors and now they want £250 plus parts! Told them where to go!
I am no stranger to soldering, I used to repair mobile phones for a living so am used to soldering small parts, just got really lazy lately!
Think i'm going to try and repair it myself, should be fun!
I have tried pressing down on the connectors or wedging things in to make a connection but they seem to need even pressure over the whole thing, sometimes I get a flicker of the perfect image so i'm pretty sure it will work when repaired
Thanks for letting me know which connectors i'm going to need, gonna try RS Components in the UK unless anyone knows of anywhere cheaper?
I've sent the soldering company some pictures of the connectors and now they want £250 plus parts! Told them where to go!
I am no stranger to soldering, I used to repair mobile phones for a living so am used to soldering small parts, just got really lazy lately!
Think i'm going to try and repair it myself, should be fun!
I have tried pressing down on the connectors or wedging things in to make a connection but they seem to need even pressure over the whole thing, sometimes I get a flicker of the perfect image so i'm pretty sure it will work when repaired
Thanks for letting me know which connectors i'm going to need, gonna try RS Components in the UK unless anyone knows of anywhere cheaper?
I've found
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=9786317&N=401
They appear to be the same part number of the ones from mouser but the picture looks different
Can someone confirm this is the connector I would need?
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=9786317&N=401
They appear to be the same part number of the ones from mouser but the picture looks different
Can someone confirm this is the connector I would need?
You got it!
It is the same connector mechanically, but the one you chose is manufactured contaminant-free (ROHS compliant) and is slightly more expensive. Check out the datasheet/drawing, or just click on "Alternative Products" on the right of the Farnell webpage.
The identical one is http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3078334&N=401
Either one should work beautifully.
Double check that the pitch is 0.50 mm and not 1.00 mm. Both sizes are used in LCDs.
(Looks like you found the "Mouser" equivalent for the UK. They have a good selection of FFC cables, too.)
It is the same connector mechanically, but the one you chose is manufactured contaminant-free (ROHS compliant) and is slightly more expensive. Check out the datasheet/drawing, or just click on "Alternative Products" on the right of the Farnell webpage.
The identical one is http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3078334&N=401
Either one should work beautifully.
Double check that the pitch is 0.50 mm and not 1.00 mm. Both sizes are used in LCDs.
(Looks like you found the "Mouser" equivalent for the UK. They have a good selection of FFC cables, too.)
What i'm saying is that the connector shown looks completley different to the one i've got!
Is it just a stock picture do you think??
And also how do i check what pitch i need?
Is it just a stock picture do you think??
And also how do i check what pitch i need?
FFC Connector.....30 contact !
Well, I went back to your picture and counted the number of contacts and it is 30, not 20. Sorry
.
The correct part is this one http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3078346&N=401 .
As far as how the parts look, the Mouser illustration shows the connector all one color when it is not, the locking mechanism (which is broken off on your connector) is brown, and the body of the connector is a cream color.
The Farnell illustration shows the actual connector, but it is pictured bottom side up to show the solder pads and the solder tails.
The only way to know if you are getting the right pitch is to measure the distance between contacts on the cable.
0.50mm pitch means that there is 0.50mm from the center of one contact to the center of the contact next to it.
To cut to the chase, measure the length of the connector you need to replace (I checked the datasheet drawing) and if it is 19.6mm(.772 in), then you need this 30 contact, 0.50mm pitch connector.
Well, I went back to your picture and counted the number of contacts and it is 30, not 20. Sorry
. The correct part is this one http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3078346&N=401 .
As far as how the parts look, the Mouser illustration shows the connector all one color when it is not, the locking mechanism (which is broken off on your connector) is brown, and the body of the connector is a cream color.
The Farnell illustration shows the actual connector, but it is pictured bottom side up to show the solder pads and the solder tails.
The only way to know if you are getting the right pitch is to measure the distance between contacts on the cable.
0.50mm pitch means that there is 0.50mm from the center of one contact to the center of the contact next to it.
To cut to the chase, measure the length of the connector you need to replace (I checked the datasheet drawing) and if it is 19.6mm(.772 in), then you need this 30 contact, 0.50mm pitch connector.
Thanks for that, worked out which one i need now
Looking at the PCB in the photo underneath the ribbon and to the left you can see some pretty large solder points which presumably could be soldered to instead of the pins on the connecter?
Do you think it would be worth connecting it this way to avoid any potential damage to the pads on the PCB?
Or has anyone got an easy guide to soldering such small points?
Looking at the PCB in the photo underneath the ribbon and to the left you can see some pretty large solder points which presumably could be soldered to instead of the pins on the connecter?
Do you think it would be worth connecting it this way to avoid any potential damage to the pads on the PCB?
Or has anyone got an easy guide to soldering such small points?
The large solder points are there to help support the connector and relieve tension from the pins when you put a cable in. You will still need to solder all of the pins down otherwise you may not get a connection. If the new connector you order is exactly the same as the one on the board, you might be able to just swap out the lock/cable retainer on it.
Otherwise, to remove the old connector your best bet is to use solder braid to get off as much solder as possible, then heat each pin up one by one and lift it off the board. To attach the new connector, line it up as best as you can with the pads, then solder the two large pads (the ones for holding it in place) down. After that, take your time soldering down all of the pins, being careful not to bend them out of place. If you get bridges between pins, just clean it up with the solder braid.
Otherwise, to remove the old connector your best bet is to use solder braid to get off as much solder as possible, then heat each pin up one by one and lift it off the board. To attach the new connector, line it up as best as you can with the pads, then solder the two large pads (the ones for holding it in place) down. After that, take your time soldering down all of the pins, being careful not to bend them out of place. If you get bridges between pins, just clean it up with the solder braid.
Right, not in the best of moods right now!
The soldering iron just destroyed every last track on the PCB 🙁
Felt like smashing the PJ into pieces, managed to stop myself though!
I'm now looking into repairing these traces by soldering to the illustrated points below (Apologies for the crap gfx!)
Can anyone see any problems I may encounter connecting it this way? What gauge wire should I use and also whats the best way to connect this wire to the FFC?
The soldering iron just destroyed every last track on the PCB 🙁
Felt like smashing the PJ into pieces, managed to stop myself though!
I'm now looking into repairing these traces by soldering to the illustrated points below (Apologies for the crap gfx!)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Can anyone see any problems I may encounter connecting it this way? What gauge wire should I use and also whats the best way to connect this wire to the FFC?
Now i've had a second look i'm struggling to work out which way the circuit runs
ie; if I use those solder points circled, they appear to be after the broken traces so they still wouldn't connect
Would I have to solder to the other side of the traces as shown below????
ie; if I use those solder points circled, they appear to be after the broken traces so they still wouldn't connect
Would I have to solder to the other side of the traces as shown below????
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Anyone know where I can get a PCB design package that includes these connectors in their template librarys??
How in the hell did you destroy the PCB with a soldering iron? Did you use a great clumsy soldering "gun" intended for house wiring? Or one of those useless "cold" soldering irons? In the UK you should have ready access to Antex mini soldering irons, extremely cheap and will not do anything to a PCB unless you physically rip the traces from the board. You should have been able to press solder wick against the pins, let it soak up the solder, and then let the loose connector fall away from the board.
At this point I would say you've junked the PCB.
At this point I would say you've junked the PCB.
I lean towards simple so think you would be better off repairing the traces you know connected to it oringinally. I entered 'repair trace' into a yahoo search and found some info, but there seem to be several alternatives including trace repair tape that "has conductive fibers in the adhesive layer". There was a suggestion to use a rear window defrost material repair kit or even a conductive silver pen.
One point to bear in mind here, my photos are done using a macro lens, meaning the traces are in real life tiny!
I might try some a conductive pen but the traces are so small I dont think it will work 🙁
I've had a quote of £35 from a PCB repair company to build me some FFC connectors onto a PCB with larger solder points, should be able to repair it this way, might take a while but should be worth it!
Still struggling to find the Molex connectors I need in a PCB design programme though 🙁
I might try some a conductive pen but the traces are so small I dont think it will work 🙁
I've had a quote of £35 from a PCB repair company to build me some FFC connectors onto a PCB with larger solder points, should be able to repair it this way, might take a while but should be worth it!
Still struggling to find the Molex connectors I need in a PCB design programme though 🙁
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