I have a sharp 7inch screen and controller set taken from car tv.
I have the lcd in reverse mode that is the viewing side is towards the lamp. This makes it easier to mount the controler cards and the double fresnel all behind the lcd.
The problem is within 2 minutes or less the lcd is showing signs of gosting ,lines and progressively worse from overheating. I only have it on a test bench everything open and using 150w hqi.
I was wondering if this is normal with no heatshield in.
Also is that fact that i have the light going through the wrong side causing this super sensitivity?
I am guessing if i split the fresnels and place the lcd between this will also put less hot spot light on the lcd since its the top fresnel that really does that.
When testing the lcd with a house lamp 100watt the lcd looks fine and runs with no interference for half an hour or longer so it does not look like the lcd is yet damaged from heat.
I have the lcd in reverse mode that is the viewing side is towards the lamp. This makes it easier to mount the controler cards and the double fresnel all behind the lcd.
The problem is within 2 minutes or less the lcd is showing signs of gosting ,lines and progressively worse from overheating. I only have it on a test bench everything open and using 150w hqi.
I was wondering if this is normal with no heatshield in.
Also is that fact that i have the light going through the wrong side causing this super sensitivity?
I am guessing if i split the fresnels and place the lcd between this will also put less hot spot light on the lcd since its the top fresnel that really does that.
When testing the lcd with a house lamp 100watt the lcd looks fine and runs with no interference for half an hour or longer so it does not look like the lcd is yet damaged from heat.
The difference between the MH lamp and the incandescent lamp is interesting. I would think a 100 Watt incandescent lamp might actually put out more IR than a 150 Watt MH lamp, but maybe I am wrong. Are you using a reflector with the MH lamp, and no reflector with the incandescent?
It sounds like you really need an IR filter.
DIYprojectorCompany.com has some IR filter glass that is pretty cheap, but I don't know if they ship to South America. Might be cheaper to get a small piece of Rosco Thermasheild plastic film, when you count the shipping. That could just go in an envelope.
It sounds like you really need an IR filter.
DIYprojectorCompany.com has some IR filter glass that is pretty cheap, but I don't know if they ship to South America. Might be cheaper to get a small piece of Rosco Thermasheild plastic film, when you count the shipping. That could just go in an envelope.
well I sinced flipped the lcd right way so the light is passing through the side it was designed for. I am however still getting vertical ghosting on the image. For instance lets say a person is standing against a even white background. I see streaking from their hand or their silhoute.
It looks like I may have damaged the lcd before hand although i am not sure it could still be overheating a little. when i put my finger on the projection lens side its just warm. There is a 12cm fan blowing on the 7 inch lcd the box is also open as on a testing bench. The lamp is however a 400 watt lamp with large hotel type soup bowl reflector. The difference now is that the screen does not blank out after 60 sec. completely as in reverse mode. Now it will run fine forever it seems. except the ghosting problem.
It looks like I may have damaged the lcd before hand although i am not sure it could still be overheating a little. when i put my finger on the projection lens side its just warm. There is a 12cm fan blowing on the 7 inch lcd the box is also open as on a testing bench. The lamp is however a 400 watt lamp with large hotel type soup bowl reflector. The difference now is that the screen does not blank out after 60 sec. completely as in reverse mode. Now it will run fine forever it seems. except the ghosting problem.
Could it be your ballast? I've heard that certain ballasts put out some EMI, and that this can mess up your picture. This'd make sense since the image looked fine with a 100 watt incandescent.
If this is a ballast interference problem, try moving the ballast further away, or put aluminum shielding around the ballast area to eliminate EMI.
This is, of course, assuming your 400 watt lamp uses a ballast (for all I know, you're using some kind of 400 watt incandescent that doesn't require one).
If this is a ballast interference problem, try moving the ballast further away, or put aluminum shielding around the ballast area to eliminate EMI.
This is, of course, assuming your 400 watt lamp uses a ballast (for all I know, you're using some kind of 400 watt incandescent that doesn't require one).
Well thats an interesting point.
I fired up the lamp yesterday to use is a a studio photo lamp. That is, I used it as a light source to take some pictures with a friends cellphone digital camera. The image was all messed up on the lcd and even after taking the photo. I was seeing horizontal lines very prominent unlike the ghosting on the projector lcd.
The camera`s lcd was about 2.5 feet from the ballast so if this is the problem where am i gonna put the ballast in the other room? I will try moving the ballast further from the projector lcd to see if this does anything. I also have a 150w hqi kit to test with but the ballast is the same manufacturer.
btw, what the heck is emi?
I fired up the lamp yesterday to use is a a studio photo lamp. That is, I used it as a light source to take some pictures with a friends cellphone digital camera. The image was all messed up on the lcd and even after taking the photo. I was seeing horizontal lines very prominent unlike the ghosting on the projector lcd.
The camera`s lcd was about 2.5 feet from the ballast so if this is the problem where am i gonna put the ballast in the other room? I will try moving the ballast further from the projector lcd to see if this does anything. I also have a 150w hqi kit to test with but the ballast is the same manufacturer.
btw, what the heck is emi?
EMI is electromagnetic interference. It is similar to getting static on your radio when your wife/girlfriend runs her hairdryer.
Like milihpen said, try putting aluminum shielding around your ballast. Bend a disposable aluminum pie dish (or something similar) into a box shape around your ballast and see if that helps.
Don't let the aluminum touch anything else electrically conductive.
Like milihpen said, try putting aluminum shielding around your ballast. Bend a disposable aluminum pie dish (or something similar) into a box shape around your ballast and see if that helps.
Don't let the aluminum touch anything else electrically conductive.
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