robomatique said:
To tell you the truth, I don't know what the link does excactly. I suppose it is some kind of weak reversed feedback signal that occurs on the sync at the "critical frequency" (around 150 kHz) that is connected to the input, suppressing this particular frequency in the input signal, hence the term compensation. I think the effect of the 100pF capacitor is roughly the same (in this case damping that frequency), but, as you said, you can easily check/compare it with a three position switch circuit (no compensation, link, capacitor). But, I'm far from a technician, so I could be telling nonsense... Anyway, it wouldn't hurt to try it. though I would not switch when the amp is on (I wouldn't know why not, but just to be sure).
As for the primary/secundary Voltages: I have no clue. But you said you connected primary and secundary together in the socket? That cannot be right... Post a drawing of the scheme, there's a slight chance that I, but certainly some chance that others, can tell something meaningfull about it.
Best regards, Joep
(Last edit) PS: does anyone know if you can combine the compensated mode with an external clock? I'm not planning to do that, just curious.
Joep: Yes you can combine the two, but then you have to connect a 100p cap between + and - input, to free up the sync input.
The 22k and 100p cap effectively forms a lowpass filter, as pointed out, to limit the gain in higher frequncies (Fc = 72.4 kHz).
Robomatique:
1..No problem, it is already running on 60V DC. It will fall when the load is added. Almost as certain that it could be predicted by Newton ;-)
2..Yes or braid as pointed out (thanks Joep).
3..Yes
All the best from the first day of spring in Denmark 🙂
The 22k and 100p cap effectively forms a lowpass filter, as pointed out, to limit the gain in higher frequncies (Fc = 72.4 kHz).
Robomatique:
1..No problem, it is already running on 60V DC. It will fall when the load is added. Almost as certain that it could be predicted by Newton ;-)
2..Yes or braid as pointed out (thanks Joep).
3..Yes
All the best from the first day of spring in Denmark 🙂
Lars (again, good to have you back on the forum 🙂 )
I have two 2.2SE Zaps and want to use them as bass amps in an active speaker setup. The bassunits are from Lambda Acoustics, which is out of business. So I want to be very carefull with these (I spend a lot of time building the speakerenclosures). I think it will sound great, because the Lamda were famous for their units and the Zap is mentioned as being very good on the low end.
To get to the point, I like to have some speakerprotection device (ie against DC), just in case I mess up (and to keep me from not being able to sleep at night
).
One option is this kit form White Noise, that looks like a quality item: http://www.wnaudio.com/lspro.html
http://www.wnaudio.com/cat.pdf
However, apart from the relay disconnecting in case of DC, it also can disconnects the speaker at power on and power of
(1) Can I use this kit, or should I look for some other protection device? I understand from the Do's and Donts page that the 2.2 Zaps didn't like being disconnected when there still is a (music) signal. ("Do NOT remove the load at full Volume!"). Of course I dont plan to turn on or of at high volume, but it always can (and will) happen by accident).
(2) Is it better to have the relay between caps and Zap module (this would probably increase the connection)? I have two 33000uF caps per channel, so there is a lot of energy stored in there.
Any other advices on this matter (apart from buy the 2.3 😉 )??
Thanx, Ronald
I have two 2.2SE Zaps and want to use them as bass amps in an active speaker setup. The bassunits are from Lambda Acoustics, which is out of business. So I want to be very carefull with these (I spend a lot of time building the speakerenclosures). I think it will sound great, because the Lamda were famous for their units and the Zap is mentioned as being very good on the low end.
To get to the point, I like to have some speakerprotection device (ie against DC), just in case I mess up (and to keep me from not being able to sleep at night
).One option is this kit form White Noise, that looks like a quality item: http://www.wnaudio.com/lspro.html
http://www.wnaudio.com/cat.pdf
However, apart from the relay disconnecting in case of DC, it also can disconnects the speaker at power on and power of
(1) Can I use this kit, or should I look for some other protection device? I understand from the Do's and Donts page that the 2.2 Zaps didn't like being disconnected when there still is a (music) signal. ("Do NOT remove the load at full Volume!"). Of course I dont plan to turn on or of at high volume, but it always can (and will) happen by accident).
(2) Is it better to have the relay between caps and Zap module (this would probably increase the connection)? I have two 33000uF caps per channel, so there is a lot of energy stored in there.
Any other advices on this matter (apart from buy the 2.3 😉 )??
Thanx, Ronald
Hi Lars,
2.3SE modules have a number of improvements over the older 2.2SE's. Are the old 2.2SE modules upgadable (at least partially) in regard to some of the 2.3SE upgrades (like the load dumping, rf switching interference, current limiting,..) ?
Regards
2.3SE modules have a number of improvements over the older 2.2SE's. Are the old 2.2SE modules upgadable (at least partially) in regard to some of the 2.3SE upgrades (like the load dumping, rf switching interference, current limiting,..) ?
Regards
Lars Clausen said:
Thanks for your quick answers!!! But just to be abolutely sure about question 1.
I get 18VAC at the input (good), but 32VDC out, will this go down to 15-20V when load is on?
Thanks again, the harsh treble seems to havre gone down quite abit after the first 24 hours (but I had a few drinks yesterday so maybe my ears are not finely tuned today 🙄 ).
Thanks again, now out in the GREAT wheather in London!
Robert
Lars Clausen said:
Thanks, Lars!
Just trying to get a grip on some basics. I'm not really planning to actually do it though; for the moment I'm extremely happy with the sound and power of the Zap, which came to me as a total surprise (I'm using it as a bassguitar amp)
robomatique said:
I still cannot figure this one out. You have 230VAC (or whatever it is in the UK) mains on the primaries and you measure only 18VAC? That is just impossible....
EDIT: draw a scheme with some tool (there are lots of them for free to download) so we can have a look. There must be some wrong connection
Best regards, Joep
EDIT:
Duck-Twacy said:
Couldn't agree with you more... 🙂
Joep Zonnebloem said:
Hello, thanks for helping me out!
I get 18VAC at the output of the transformer, but 32V at the output of the power supply... can't really understand what is happening.
I have connected it as in the diagram furthest down to the left in this document:
www.robomatique.com/robert/diy/Transformer_Connect.gif
The secondaries are tied together at the input socket of the power supply.
Robert
click
Hi you all, I must say that the sound my ZAP's give is really awesome. Thanks Lars for that !!
Question; when going from standby to playing I get that really strange TICk, don't think that's any good for my speakers, how can I GET RID OF THIS; searched a lot of forums but can't find it. Apparently the 2.3SE module is already fixed.
Thanks
Hi you all, I must say that the sound my ZAP's give is really awesome. Thanks Lars for that !!
Question; when going from standby to playing I get that really strange TICk, don't think that's any good for my speakers, how can I GET RID OF THIS; searched a lot of forums but can't find it. Apparently the 2.3SE module is already fixed.
Thanks
robomatique said:
Hello robomatique,
You seem to be using a transformer with 2 primary windings. I think it is wired ok as indicated, but I have only dealt with the "normal" style toroids (1:2) so far.
I realise that you were talking about input and output of the predator supply. I got you wrong, I thought it was about mains->secundaries... I don't know anything about that power supply, I'm sorry.
Best regards, Joep
PS: made some changes to the message, all typing errors
I.e. in case of 110VAC, parallel the primaries as well as the secundaries. But I found that you have 240AC so it should be as in the image.Joep Zonnebloem said:
Duck Twacy: I would say the wnaudio module is an excellent way to protect your loudspeaker. I would also recommend a varistor of 80V across the output directly on your 2.2SE's when a relay is present to remove the load.
Zvon: Only with the above load dump protection.
Robomatique: Yes exactly. And .. drinking already?? The easter holidays hasn't even started yet ... 😀
About the 32V don't worry about it, it seems to be OK.
sheeske: Thanks! The tick is not harmful for anything, and you can only remove it using a relay to delay the connection of the loudspeakers. If you can live with it, don't worry about it. Or maybe use the Gate Drive option, so the Q power is low, and always leave it on ..?
Joep: I think you are right, maybe Robomatique is using a 230V transformer on the 240 V hrid, which would lead to the slightly higher voltage. However still no problem.
Zvon: Only with the above load dump protection.
Robomatique: Yes exactly. And .. drinking already?? The easter holidays hasn't even started yet ... 😀
About the 32V don't worry about it, it seems to be OK.
sheeske: Thanks! The tick is not harmful for anything, and you can only remove it using a relay to delay the connection of the loudspeakers. If you can live with it, don't worry about it. Or maybe use the Gate Drive option, so the Q power is low, and always leave it on ..?
Joep: I think you are right, maybe Robomatique is using a 230V transformer on the 240 V hrid, which would lead to the slightly higher voltage. However still no problem.
hello,
Is a DC protection for the loundspeakers essential ?
What are the differences between 2.2 and 2.3SE ?
Thank you.
Is a DC protection for the loundspeakers essential ?
What are the differences between 2.2 and 2.3SE ?
Thank you.
Not absolutely I think. And the 2.3 is supposed to be a lot more error proof.
However I have the 2.2 and (as I explained) cannot replace my speakers anymore if anything would go wrong. And I put a lot of hard work into them.
However I have the 2.2 and (as I explained) cannot replace my speakers anymore if anything would go wrong. And I put a lot of hard work into them.
I have 6 ZapPulse 2.2 SE modules that I haven't had the time to start palying with (yet), also because I was waiting for the sync module from Lars
Since the cost for replacing or upgrading all of the 2.2 boards to version 2.3 is very close to buying brand new 2.3 modules, I was wondering if there are any DIY changes (chips, passive components) that would incorporate some of the improvements of version 2.3 into version 2.2.
For instance, one of the major shortfalls (IMHO) of version 2.2 is the impossibility to use a delayed connection of the speakers and/or a DC protection circuit, due to the danger of destroying the module if the load is suddenly disconnected.
I've seen that the 2.3 version now uses a thermistor as part of the output circuit, so I assume that this helps in making the module "disconnection-proof".
Would it be possible to include this circuitry on the 2.2 module as well?
Maybe Lars could sell the components for making the upgrade...
Since the cost for replacing or upgrading all of the 2.2 boards to version 2.3 is very close to buying brand new 2.3 modules, I was wondering if there are any DIY changes (chips, passive components) that would incorporate some of the improvements of version 2.3 into version 2.2.
For instance, one of the major shortfalls (IMHO) of version 2.2 is the impossibility to use a delayed connection of the speakers and/or a DC protection circuit, due to the danger of destroying the module if the load is suddenly disconnected.
I've seen that the 2.3 version now uses a thermistor as part of the output circuit, so I assume that this helps in making the module "disconnection-proof".
Would it be possible to include this circuitry on the 2.2 module as well?
Maybe Lars could sell the components for making the upgrade...
Just a few posts up Lars himself states that a voltage dependent resistor can be added to the 2.2 to protect it so you can use a muting relay. A thermistor wouldn't be any good I think.
You also have no problem with adding a DC detection circuit as if you need the circuit to function then the module is blown anyway so it won't matter if the load is disconnected at full pelt.
You also have no problem with adding a DC detection circuit as if you need the circuit to function then the module is blown anyway so it won't matter if the load is disconnected at full pelt.
Well in that case, it wouldn't matter would it? 😀
It's a Varistor not a thermistor of course.... 😉
Lars
It's a Varistor not a thermistor of course.... 😉
Lars
Probably solved my problems with the Zappulse 2.2 SE,it was the softstart.The amp "clipped" really early when i was playing and two modules was" burned".Don`t really know if they "burned" because of the "clipping" but the amp never worked as it should with the softstart.Now it`s gone and the amp plays really loud and very good.I thougt i needed it because my trafo was at 1000 VA but it seems to work anyway.
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