My amps just arrived and just wanted to be sure
I got everything right before I put it all together this week.
Here’s what I have:
Sony cdx-mp30 50x4 HU - 2 sets rca outs to the 4 channel amp
LOC to the 2 channel sub amp
Profile 2 channel 400W subwoofer amp
Max Power @ 4 Ohm = 1x400W
RMS Power @ 4 Ohm = 1 x 200W
Max Power @ 2 Ohm = 1 x 600W
RMS Power @ 2 Ohm = 1 x 300W
Profile 4 channel 400W speaker amp
Output Power @ 4 Ohm = 4 x 100 WATTS
RMS Power @ 4 Ohm = 4 x 50 WATTS
RMS Power @ 2 Ohm = 4 x 75 WATTS
Bridged RMS @ 4 Ohm = 2 x 150 WATTS
A pair of Polk DB650s 2-way 180 watt 60 RMS
A pair of Kenwood P605IE 2-way components 200 watt 50 RMS
2 10" subs in an enclosure (yet to know specs, but shouldnt be too cheap or too expensive)
4 awg wire from battery to an 80 amp in line fuse within 6 inches from battery, running along side drivers side into trunk. There, the 4 awg wire goes into a dual 40 amp fuse distribution block to two 8 awg wires into each amp. Amps AND the HU are grounded to the chassis at the same point. Amps ground is 4 awg, HU ground is 12 awg (to avoid the alternator whine). Looking in the trunk, seems the best space to mount them is under the rear deck. A short run of 12 awg speaker wire from the 2 channel amp to the sub(s). 12 awg wire from the 4 channel amp to the rear deck and to the front panel speakers, avoiding running with the main power wire. 3 sets of home made rca heavy guage twisted stranded wire running from HU and LOC to each amp avoiding running parallel to any power wires.
1st question. Is the 80 amp and two 40 amp fuses good enough for the load?
2nd question. Assuming the subs are 4 ohms and over 300w peak power, would it be best to run parallel or in series? Still having a hard time with that.
3rd question. Are the components best in rear or front fill?
4th question. Can I split the amp rem wire to both amps?
I got everything right before I put it all together this week.
Here’s what I have:
Sony cdx-mp30 50x4 HU - 2 sets rca outs to the 4 channel amp
LOC to the 2 channel sub amp
Profile 2 channel 400W subwoofer amp
Max Power @ 4 Ohm = 1x400W
RMS Power @ 4 Ohm = 1 x 200W
Max Power @ 2 Ohm = 1 x 600W
RMS Power @ 2 Ohm = 1 x 300W
Profile 4 channel 400W speaker amp
Output Power @ 4 Ohm = 4 x 100 WATTS
RMS Power @ 4 Ohm = 4 x 50 WATTS
RMS Power @ 2 Ohm = 4 x 75 WATTS
Bridged RMS @ 4 Ohm = 2 x 150 WATTS
A pair of Polk DB650s 2-way 180 watt 60 RMS
A pair of Kenwood P605IE 2-way components 200 watt 50 RMS
2 10" subs in an enclosure (yet to know specs, but shouldnt be too cheap or too expensive)
4 awg wire from battery to an 80 amp in line fuse within 6 inches from battery, running along side drivers side into trunk. There, the 4 awg wire goes into a dual 40 amp fuse distribution block to two 8 awg wires into each amp. Amps AND the HU are grounded to the chassis at the same point. Amps ground is 4 awg, HU ground is 12 awg (to avoid the alternator whine). Looking in the trunk, seems the best space to mount them is under the rear deck. A short run of 12 awg speaker wire from the 2 channel amp to the sub(s). 12 awg wire from the 4 channel amp to the rear deck and to the front panel speakers, avoiding running with the main power wire. 3 sets of home made rca heavy guage twisted stranded wire running from HU and LOC to each amp avoiding running parallel to any power wires.
1st question. Is the 80 amp and two 40 amp fuses good enough for the load?
2nd question. Assuming the subs are 4 ohms and over 300w peak power, would it be best to run parallel or in series? Still having a hard time with that.
3rd question. Are the components best in rear or front fill?
4th question. Can I split the amp rem wire to both amps?
Sounds good,BUT-are they shielded? Cars are horrbily noisy,and I can almost guarantee you'll need shielded interconnects to keep the noise out.
#1 Fuses sound good.
#2 Not sure,Might come down to personal preferance.
In parallel they'd be a 2 ohm load,and in series,they'd be an 8 ohm load.
Personally,I'd probably run one speaker per channel.(non-bridged.)
#3 Probably in the front.Not alot of imaging comes from the rear.
#4 Yep.
Instead of using a LOC for the sub, why not use a splitter and get the signal off one of the rca outs? Run one pair of rcas into the front channels, and split the other pair to rear/sub.
xlodes idea of splitting the rca,s will limit the fading and tuning ,with rear fill and sub not the best way to go,he may be fine with the twisted rca,s non shielded ,80amps should be more than enough for those profile amps,i would be more concerned with the front stage
Same goes for using a LOCdodgerblue said:
He's using the front and rear preouts for the 4ch amp, and then putting a LOC on the rear speaker outputs for the sub amp. It would be a much better idea to just split the rear preout to both the 4ch and sub amp, same result as far as fading goes, but you don't have to get a LOC or run the signal through the craptacular HU power amp first.
The amp does have high line inputs that I can use instead of an LOC or splitting the signal.
Assuming since the amp is mono, I can just run what would be for the left rear and right rear speaker wires off the HU and insert into the high level terminals.
Thank you all for your help and advice!!!
Assuming since the amp is mono, I can just run what would be for the left rear and right rear speaker wires off the HU and insert into the high level terminals.
Thank you all for your help and advice!!!
all i have to say is use a crossover... run an rca cable to the crossovers input and then run more rcas from the crossover to the amps... thats what i do...
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