All,
Can anyone describe the design differences between using multiple smaller drivers like what is done by REL's ST series and Martin Logan Descent/Depth subs versus using single large drivers?
Do smaller drivers better suit music than large drivers?
Are larger drivers better suited for Home Theater?
I am looking to build a pair of stereo subs purely for 2-channel audio, no HT and am trying to sort out my options and design plans.
Thanks for all your help.
Sincerely,
Tim
Can anyone describe the design differences between using multiple smaller drivers like what is done by REL's ST series and Martin Logan Descent/Depth subs versus using single large drivers?
Do smaller drivers better suit music than large drivers?
Are larger drivers better suited for Home Theater?
I am looking to build a pair of stereo subs purely for 2-channel audio, no HT and am trying to sort out my options and design plans.
Thanks for all your help.
Sincerely,
Tim
Displacement is one of the biggest variables in a sub's performance, and multiple smaller drivers in close proximity can provide the same displacement as a single larger driver. With multiple drivers, the power will be split between multiple voice coils, resulting in better heat dissipation, so multiple drivers may have better sustained power handling capability, and less thermal "distortion". Smaller drivers will typically have lighter cones, and the lower inertia may result in better response. On the other hand, larger drivers may have stronger motors to overcome the greater inertia. And all other things being equal, a larger driver may have a lower natural resonant frequency.
All other things generally aren't equal though, so each driver, regardless of size, has to be looked at on its own merits. The performance differences attributable to just driver size probably aren't large enough and consistent enough for one to have any reliable advantage over the other from a performance perspective. The driving factors tend to be more related to packaging and cost.
All other things generally aren't equal though, so each driver, regardless of size, has to be looked at on its own merits. The performance differences attributable to just driver size probably aren't large enough and consistent enough for one to have any reliable advantage over the other from a performance perspective. The driving factors tend to be more related to packaging and cost.
IMHO, subs are the result of HT more than anything else. Because of the demand to have smaller speakers in multiple locations, the need for something to carry the lower end bass, negated a sub. The lower Fs end of a speaker is a physical property, size and weight and stiffness of the surround and suspension. It's hard to get a small speaker to produce well at the lower end compared to a larger speaker.
Again IMHO, I would'nt waste my time on a sub for two channel sound if you are looking at playing music unless space is a concern. Since most music is in the above 40HZ category, with the exception of some of the newer types that are made for vibrating a car, the need for the sub is not really there.
I built a sub for my shop system and complimented it with some nice three ways, using a 6" for a midbass. By their selves, the three ways sound good, with the sub they sound better. But when compared to several other sets of three ways using a 10" and 8" woofers, there is no comparison. The sound fills the room in a much fuller capacity.
This is not to say that it cannot be done properly, my goal in building that particualr sub was for comparison for two channel sound. The plan is now to add addition subs and see how this sounds. It wasn't just me that enjoyed the two channels with there own woofer, I tried it on everyone that came by the house.
Again IMHO, I would'nt waste my time on a sub for two channel sound if you are looking at playing music unless space is a concern. Since most music is in the above 40HZ category, with the exception of some of the newer types that are made for vibrating a car, the need for the sub is not really there.
I built a sub for my shop system and complimented it with some nice three ways, using a 6" for a midbass. By their selves, the three ways sound good, with the sub they sound better. But when compared to several other sets of three ways using a 10" and 8" woofers, there is no comparison. The sound fills the room in a much fuller capacity.
This is not to say that it cannot be done properly, my goal in building that particualr sub was for comparison for two channel sound. The plan is now to add addition subs and see how this sounds. It wasn't just me that enjoyed the two channels with there own woofer, I tried it on everyone that came by the house.
Hi,
whats theorectical and whats practical are two different things.
If stereo subs are appropriate to your situation you will find that
the highest performing option is two mechanically linked opposed
drivers per cabinet.
More than two drivers, you are unlikely to find a cost effective solution.
The one driver, usually is most bang for buck but not as good as two.
🙂/sreten.
whats theorectical and whats practical are two different things.
If stereo subs are appropriate to your situation you will find that
the highest performing option is two mechanically linked opposed
drivers per cabinet.
More than two drivers, you are unlikely to find a cost effective solution.
The one driver, usually is most bang for buck but not as good as two.
🙂/sreten.
What do you mean by mechanically linked? A push/pull driver configuration within the same compartment?
Thanks,
Tim
Thanks,
Tim
Hi,
Both drivers push and then both drivers pull.
They are placed on opposite sides of the cabinet.
The drivers magnets are linked giving force cancellation.
🙂/sreten.
Both drivers push and then both drivers pull.
They are placed on opposite sides of the cabinet.
The drivers magnets are linked giving force cancellation.
🙂/sreten.
In DIY subs, a single larger driver is usually more cost effective than multiple smaller drivers to achieve an SPL target. You will notice with some driver lines which have 12" and 15" drivers that often the motor is very similar if not identical - it doesn't cost much more to make a bigger cone and basket.
Consider a single 15" vs dual 12" drivers. The 15 will need a much bigger box if vented and will probably be about 2-3db more efficient than a single 12 but the dual version will handle twice the power from a thermal point of view, while also having more total displacement, so the dual 12 will have more output, especially for music use where thermal power handling rather than excursion limited power hanlding is the limitation.
Dual driver subs allow push pull which can cancel cone movement which is a practical thing to prevent the sub moving around, but perhaps more importantly, distortion is lowered.
There is more sub 40 Hz content in music than most seem to think - I have a RTA permanently in use in my system and this is quite surprising. However, when accuracy and not SPL is important, my mains are more articulate in the bass than my subs, and in jazz music this is particularly clear.
Consider a single 15" vs dual 12" drivers. The 15 will need a much bigger box if vented and will probably be about 2-3db more efficient than a single 12 but the dual version will handle twice the power from a thermal point of view, while also having more total displacement, so the dual 12 will have more output, especially for music use where thermal power handling rather than excursion limited power hanlding is the limitation.
Dual driver subs allow push pull which can cancel cone movement which is a practical thing to prevent the sub moving around, but perhaps more importantly, distortion is lowered.
There is more sub 40 Hz content in music than most seem to think - I have a RTA permanently in use in my system and this is quite surprising. However, when accuracy and not SPL is important, my mains are more articulate in the bass than my subs, and in jazz music this is particularly clear.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.