Nevertheless, I think the OP "must try" these drivers for at least a few hours (break-in) at low frequency (around fs) and decent power before deciding their worthiness and/or keeping/selling them. The bass (almost always) sounds weak in the beginning due to the unconditioned spider and surround that tend to become more compliant in due course.
rising response is typical for PA use since high frequencies do not make it as well over distance. Especially outside. Danley synergy also has flat response for PA use and recommends taper down for home use. You should check out Geddes speakers which are this type of configuration adapted for home use (not my cup of tea though). He stuffs his waveguides with specially sourced foam to get rid of the higher order reflections.
No need to use CD at home unless you want to use a flea amp like 2A3, F2, etc. and have a separate sub. (p.s horn aficionados also like FW F3 amp since it helps smooth out the edge to the sound).
you should understand that speaker designers have a certain design goal in mind and everything is a trade off (no free lunch). If PA is not your goal then you should know what is. Controlled directivity? for managing early reflections in a smaller space or...?
The Preference for Direct Radiators
No need to use CD at home unless you want to use a flea amp like 2A3, F2, etc. and have a separate sub. (p.s horn aficionados also like FW F3 amp since it helps smooth out the edge to the sound).
you should understand that speaker designers have a certain design goal in mind and everything is a trade off (no free lunch). If PA is not your goal then you should know what is. Controlled directivity? for managing early reflections in a smaller space or...?
The Preference for Direct Radiators
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I believe the following material helps one to understand loudspeaker construction for linearity vs. that for efficiency and the resulting differences in response. Note that the curvilinear cone type seen in the OP's driver is mentioned in Fig. 4c, along with FR differences between 2220 (PA) / 2225 (cinema) and 2235 (studio) type drivers (Fig. 5) of similar power rating. The negligible thermal compression effects in the popular (and expensive) 2226 driver have also been shown in Fig. 7.
http://lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/reference/notes/tech1-3a/page06.jpg
http://lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/reference/notes/tech1-3a/page07.jpg
http://lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/reference/notes/tech1-3a/page06.jpg
http://lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/reference/notes/tech1-3a/page07.jpg
Well, if you want something with controlled directivity, low distortion, high sensitivity & power handling, and can run an octave lower than a typical dome...
Chris
unisons use different acoustic drivers than mine.
I don't know where you found it written that it refers to xt1086 I don't see it.
a nice Norwegian friend passed me some information.
in turn he too made an acoustic diffuser with the same components but made some changes.
he suggested that I build a 130 liter box.
for reflex loading he suggested that I use two tubes of 11 cm in diameter and 17-20 cm depth.
he passed me the crossover filter scheme he made for his speaker. he told me it crosses at 800Hz. in the attachment you can see the original crossover filter and the one he modified.
if you have patience I have a few questions for you.
can I only change horn waveguide with another one that has the same frequency range and the same 1.4 "throat but with a sound radiation angle that has a greater angle? ..
in this case I would like to know if I can use the crossover filter and all the acoustic drivers that I already have available.
is it possible to separate the woofer box from the horn compression driver for convenience of transport?
can I eliminate the thermistor which in the image is identified with the code 2A?
Attachments
Bigger box, lower tuning and lower crossover frequency are definitely good ideas.
You can use your driver with another 1.4" horn but you will have to adapt your crossover.
You can also seperate the drivers if you like to do so.
Regards
Charles
You can use your driver with another 1.4" horn but you will have to adapt your crossover.
You can also seperate the drivers if you like to do so.
Regards
Charles
The following is about cone flexing, midrange pseudo-loudness and the resulting distortion. Not quite evidence, but still conveys the basic idea. Hope it helps.
The Truth About Pistonic Driver Cones | Vandersteen Audio
These modes shown on that video are the reason why some cones use a curvilinear profile which has increased resistance against exactly these modes.
The 18s woofer in question does have a light curvilinear cone intended to improve midrange reproduction.
Regards
Charles
The 18s woofer in question does have a light curvilinear cone intended to improve midrange reproduction.
Regards
Charles
There is no news in the fact that a lot of cones break up and that there is such thing as controlled breakup. Controlling the breakup is bad for efficiency, that is why high efficient pro drivers (there actually are low efficiency pro drivers by the way) show worse results there. The real discussion should be: are the breakup distortion products down enough for the design goal? There are different goals at stake.
Your typical good setup would have tone arm resonance under 12Hz IIRC. And the real challenge comes from the mechanical coupling.
I guess the picture with the Max2 was made for advertising anyway. It shows the Max with the 18s horn which I have only seen on prototypes. The series versions use the Faital LTH142. And then there are some CDs shown but no player at all in this setup. And the speaker setup is quite asymmetric with one speaker right in a corner.
Regards
Charles
Regards
Charles
If you search pictures for Unison Max 2, you can find with both XT1464 and LTH142 horn, and they are not only advertising pics or prototypes. There are YT videos too.
-In the second image you posted, where 18sound gives the Technical Data the picture of the horn is not the XT1464 but the XT1086
- as Phase Acourate already answered, different horn usually needs different crossover
- you can eliminate the 2A PTC, if not activated it will have quite small resistance.
Overall for Hifi use you did not purchase the right Kit IMO.
The woofer you have is not very well suited for producing enough base in a passive design, the 15W750 from 18sound would probably be a better choice.
But now we are talking about a completely different speaker.
Regarding the Crossover from your friend see attachment:
Attachments
They do indeed show the xt1086 on the picture but the building plans do definitely show the xt1464. And I assume that the crossover is also designed for the 1.4" waveguide and driver.
With the correct box it would definitely be possible to reach lower than the original kit. And yes, I would still cross around 800 Hz.
Regards
Charles
With the correct box it would definitely be possible to reach lower than the original kit. And yes, I would still cross around 800 Hz.
Regards
Charles
although i can find the right horn unfortunately i am not able to design a crossower filter.
I wonder if among you there is anyone so kind willing to make me some simulation.
for final tuning I'll see what I can do
If you have the stuff at hand, build the 18sound design. Or sell the drivers and build an Asathor or a Calpamos or anything with a more domestic-friendly design. If you are starting from scratch, you'll have to go the hard way. Measuring acoustic output, designing an appropriate crossover using sim apps and the like. Hell of a lot of fun, but a very time-consuming process. The investments for the right equipment are historically low though.
IIRC the woofer is used in one of Troels versions of The Loudspeaker. He uses it in a 3 way design though. Not sure his reason for low XO point, but given a smaller midrange driver, I can't blame him.
The 1464 horn has been used by some members here who enjoy it's sound and have a pair myself on the shelf that look quite quality. That said, it's not the same as some of the waveguides I own now. Much deeper. Dunno how this will affect sound but something to consider.
The HF drivers from 18 Sound seem to be well reviewed and wouldn't hesitate using them.
All around it looks like a pretty decent bit of kit if the price is right.
The 1464 horn has been used by some members here who enjoy it's sound and have a pair myself on the shelf that look quite quality. That said, it's not the same as some of the waveguides I own now. Much deeper. Dunno how this will affect sound but something to consider.
The HF drivers from 18 Sound seem to be well reviewed and wouldn't hesitate using them.
All around it looks like a pretty decent bit of kit if the price is right.