Kicker zx1500.1 not working

[Andrew123654]

I just bought this 1500.1 amp off of craigslist, the guy told me it was fine but I took it to custom sounds and they said the power supply on the amp was blow, the circuit keeps dropping. When it was hooked up in my truck to 2 12 solobaric l7s the amp would keep going into protect mode, you would hear a click from the amp, and the speakers would pop, sending it back into protect. I opened the top of the amp to see if anything was damaged, all the components I can see are fine, no damage to the outside, I checked the parts that are covered up by the 8 silver bar things (2 bars with 3 screws holding 12 components as well as the rest of those things, all those look fine).

Any idea what the power supply the guy at custom sounds was refering to looks like?

 

[Perry Babin]

The amp is likely going into protect mode because it has DC on the outputs. This is most commonly caused when output transistors fail.

The 'power supply' isn't one part. It's made up of ~40% of the parts in the amp.

A failed power supply rarely causes the symptoms you listed.

 

[Andrew123654]

Any way to identify what this is? There is a picture another guy on the forums posted of what the inside looks like, Ill see if I can find it.

 

[Andrew123654]

http://www.bcae1.com/temp/zx1500components.swf

 

[Perry Babin]

There are 6 large transistors. Measure the resistance between the legs of each of the individual transistors. Measure from leg 1- leg 2, 1-3 and 2-3. Do you read anything near 0 ohms on any transistor?

If so, what are the numbers on the face of the transistors?

Do this with no power applied.

 

[Andrew123654]

Ehh for me to measure those, id need to take the circuit board off the amp, to do that there are 9 screws holding it on, 2 of which are under another board which has a component saudered on the main board and the smaller one above it (speaker terminal / rca side), as well as the smaller board an inch away from the previous one with 2 components saudered top to bottom, and the screws holding the silver plates to the sides of the amp case. Once that is done the 6 output resistors im looking at are between the 2 big red / copper coil things?

 

[Andrew123654]

Just read a little on your website about the output transistors, I don't have my multimeter on me, I will have to check this tomorrow, there is no visible damage on it though. And the 6 im checked, sence there seems to be at least 12 scattered around the amp, is the 6 closest to the ground / 12v / rem area?

 

[Perry Babin]

There are only 6 large transistors in the amp. The are grouped together.

At most, you'll need to remove the two clamps on top of the transistors. Do not remove anything else.

 

[Andrew123654]

There are 6 large transistors. Measure the resistance between the legs of each of the individual transistors. Measure from leg 1- leg 2, 1-3 and 2-3. Do you read anything near 0 ohms on any transistor?

If so, what are the numbers on the face of the transistors?

Do this with no power applied.

Nope from leg 1-2 and 1-3 is around 7-11 k ohms and 2-3 is 1.0-2.0+ k ohms on all 6 transistors.

 

[Andrew123654]

Actually there are 8 larger resistors on one side of the amp, I checked all 8 of the biggest ones and none read 0 ohms or OL.

 

[Perry Babin]

The 4 large resistors in front of the output transistors should have essentially read 0 ohms.

There's a yellow electrolytic capacitor in front of the output transistors (C109?). Does it look swollen?

 

[Andrew123654]

The 4 large resistors in front of the output transistors should have essentially read 0 ohms.

There's a yellow electrolytic capacitor in front of the output transistors (C109?). Does it look swollen?

This capacitor is sitting sideways with 1 prong on both ends? It looks fine to me, I was reading on your website, you take amps to repair. About how much would this be in my situation?

 

[Perry Babin]

No, it's a cylindrical capacitor. I think it's C109.