Kicker 40KX12001 schematic? (or any available preamp boards?)
Have here a Kicker KX1200.1, model number 40KX12001, so it is the newer model to the one with all the posts on here. The preamp/RCA board has sustained some (water?) damage and some of the resistors, capacitors and ICs need to be replaced. Most of the resistors and ICs can be identified by their markings, but I am unable to identify the correct capacitors and also a few missing components. If a schematic is available, I would be able to help myself. Also, if this part is available for purchase anywhere I would also be interested in that...
My questions are:
What should R215 be? (missing)
What should C204 be? (missing)
What are all the other capacitor values?
Any assistance rendered would be much appreciated...
Have here a Kicker KX1200.1, model number 40KX12001, so it is the newer model to the one with all the posts on here. The preamp/RCA board has sustained some (water?) damage and some of the resistors, capacitors and ICs need to be replaced. Most of the resistors and ICs can be identified by their markings, but I am unable to identify the correct capacitors and also a few missing components. If a schematic is available, I would be able to help myself. Also, if this part is available for purchase anywhere I would also be interested in that...
My questions are:
What should R215 be? (missing)
What should C204 be? (missing)
What are all the other capacitor values?
Any assistance rendered would be much appreciated...
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Q100,Q200 are J108
R215 and C204 are not populated(I will double check this)
Please list all capacitor locators that you are concerned about, this will make it easier for me to respond. For Example:
C100
C200
C300
The water damage may be too extensive, but worth the attempt. There may be other options such as finding a trash board or returning to Kicker for repair.
R215 and C204 are not populated(I will double check this)
Please list all capacitor locators that you are concerned about, this will make it easier for me to respond. For Example:
C100
C200
C300
The water damage may be too extensive, but worth the attempt. There may be other options such as finding a trash board or returning to Kicker for repair.
C203
C127
C126
C79
C78
C226
C227
C125
C225
Confirmation that C101, C102, C201and C202 are unpopulated also?
I will try my best to replace these components and clean up/resolder the board and see what happens. Don't see any damages elsewhere in the amp so hopefully this board is the only issue. I received it like this and have not applied power to it as damage was obvious and proper operation could not be possible, just the possibility of doing more damage.
Hoping someone has one parting and willing to sell this board..
C127
C126
C79
C78
C226
C227
C125
C225
Confirmation that C101, C102, C201and C202 are unpopulated also?
I will try my best to replace these components and clean up/resolder the board and see what happens. Don't see any damages elsewhere in the amp so hopefully this board is the only issue. I received it like this and have not applied power to it as damage was obvious and proper operation could not be possible, just the possibility of doing more damage.
Hoping someone has one parting and willing to sell this board..
Below is a link for mouser. You will find the J108 available. Looking at the data sheet for the BF264B device I don't see any Rds-on rating, which needs to be low. J108 pdf states Rds-on to be 8 ohms. I would replace with J108.
MMBFJ108 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
MMBFJ108 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
Back to this amp. I replaced the components on the preamp/RCA board. Powered up the amp for the first time since receiving it. I don't have an ammeter on my power supply but the two current limiting mains bulbs i have on my +12v wire lit up high beam bright when i applied remote power. I removed the rectifiers and there was no difference in the outcome. I removed Q5 to stop gate voltage from reaching the PS Fets and took measurents/scopeshots of the 3843B.
3843B voltages:
1) 7.4
2) 0.6
3) 0.3
4) 2.1 (PIC 1)
5) 0.0
6) 11.6 (PIC 2)
7) 12.5
8) 5.0
picture 1 is pin4 of 3843B
picture 2 is pin6 of 3843B
Q5: 2045ES Output to PS Gates is +11.3V)
1) 12.6
2) 11.6
3) 0.0
4) 0.0 on IC pin
5) 0.0 on IC pin (11.6 on pad which is connected to pad for pin3)
6) 11.3 on IC pin (0.3 on pad which ic connected to pad for pin4, PS Fets gates)
The rectifiers are out but when gate voltage is applied to the PS Fets the amp draws heavy current. I checked all zener diodes while in the board and none are shorted so I dont know if the HI Level circuit is to blame. I do not understand much about boost converter amplifiers so I need some guidance going forward. Thanks.
3843B voltages:
1) 7.4
2) 0.6
3) 0.3
4) 2.1 (PIC 1)
5) 0.0
6) 11.6 (PIC 2)
7) 12.5
8) 5.0
picture 1 is pin4 of 3843B
picture 2 is pin6 of 3843B
Q5: 2045ES Output to PS Gates is +11.3V)
1) 12.6
2) 11.6
3) 0.0
4) 0.0 on IC pin
5) 0.0 on IC pin (11.6 on pad which is connected to pad for pin3)
6) 11.3 on IC pin (0.3 on pad which ic connected to pad for pin4, PS Fets gates)
The rectifiers are out but when gate voltage is applied to the PS Fets the amp draws heavy current. I checked all zener diodes while in the board and none are shorted so I dont know if the HI Level circuit is to blame. I do not understand much about boost converter amplifiers so I need some guidance going forward. Thanks.
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My unfamiliarity with this type of amplifier caused me to pump the brakes as soon as my bulbs lit up. My power supply is only 5-7A with 2 foglight bulbs as current limiters. I could see the rail voltage start to go up on the outputs when the rectifiers were in but i shut off remote voltage when the bulbs lit up.
Should I power this amp up using a battery with a fuse for protection instead of bulbs?
If so, what size fuse?
What should I look for if there is something amiss? (besides smoke/fire...)
Should I power this amp up using a battery with a fuse for protection instead of bulbs?
If so, what size fuse?
What should I look for if there is something amiss? (besides smoke/fire...)
So I reinstalled the rectifiers and decided to try the amp on the power supply before resorting to the battery. Upon remote power application, the mains test bulbs lit up bright again but I left it on and after about 4-5 seconds, the bulbs went out and the amp turned on. So, my little power supply was able to turn on the amp and play it. I learn something new every day.
Tested for audio on the bench and it appears to be working. I will test in a vehicle tomorrow with a subwoofer. Thanks guys.
Tested for audio on the bench and it appears to be working. I will test in a vehicle tomorrow with a subwoofer. Thanks guys.
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