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It seems my tubes have acquired a bit of a taper after having cut the K-slot, perhaps not too far from the TPC 2 degrees. I discovered that when trying to re-insert the 1" hardwood tube-forming dowel in them to align a glued-on paper gasket, where it would not go in without bending-out the wall at the tip of the tubes. I had previously noticed my very narrow initial slot had gotten yet narrower and had to sand it back to one twentieth of an inch.
Slightly more unfortunate is a bit of a twist in one of the two, it's not that obvious, but the slot is visually skewed to one side. Likely some residual stress from my construction method. I do have a very long, thin and constant aperture at the beginning of the slot, making errors more apparent I suppose. Worst case, if this does not work out, I can easily cut them back by anything from 0.5" to 2" and re-align and fit on new base plates. The slot would still begin at a hair less than a tenth of an inch.
It seems my tubes have acquired a bit of a taper after having cut the K-slot, perhaps not too far from the TPC 2 degrees. I discovered that when trying to re-insert the 1" hardwood tube-forming dowel in them to align a glued-on paper gasket, where it would not go in without bending-out the wall at the tip of the tubes. I had previously noticed my very narrow initial slot had gotten yet narrower and had to sand it back to one twentieth of an inch.
Slightly more unfortunate is a bit of a twist in one of the two, it's not that obvious, but the slot is visually skewed to one side. Likely some residual stress from my construction method. I do have a very long, thin and constant aperture at the beginning of the slot, making errors more apparent I suppose. Worst case, if this does not work out, I can easily cut them back by anything from 0.5" to 2" and re-align and fit on new base plates. The slot would still begin at a hair less than a tenth of an inch.
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Here are some measurements for the BMS 4550 on 7.5" K-tube.
First, response 24" away, perhaps ~15deg below tube, slot facing down, without and with a driver plane baffle, as per the pictures.
We can see the baffle (red trace) supports the low end, but probably below a sane cutoff frequency. There is a slight smoothing of the response from 2kHz to 5kHz. I suppose a baffle might be beneficial, but no need to go crazy there IMO.
Next is a vertical response at the same measuring position and distance, with the baffle in place. I didn't bother rigging a way to change the tube's angle and just lowered the mic on its stand, so the distance from tube does increase with the measuring angle.
First, response 24" away, perhaps ~15deg below tube, slot facing down, without and with a driver plane baffle, as per the pictures.
We can see the baffle (red trace) supports the low end, but probably below a sane cutoff frequency. There is a slight smoothing of the response from 2kHz to 5kHz. I suppose a baffle might be beneficial, but no need to go crazy there IMO.
Next is a vertical response at the same measuring position and distance, with the baffle in place. I didn't bother rigging a way to change the tube's angle and just lowered the mic on its stand, so the distance from tube does increase with the measuring angle.
It agrees with my earlier measurements of 4540ND on 5.3" tube. I just have to mentally adjust the relative levels to make-up for my wonky technique. 
I do like the 4550 quite a bit. I took it off the QSC waveguide it's normally on, mounted in the large enclosure used as a stand in my last post.
I do like the 4550 quite a bit. I took it off the QSC waveguide it's normally on, mounted in the large enclosure used as a stand in my last post.
I never much looked for CD`s larger than 1" exit, at least not with serious consideration to purchase, then again, it was mostly 2" models. Depends on your threshold for cheap as well.
I have wondered though, how a Selenium D250-X would fare on a 1" K-Tube for midrange. It could even be used with an adapter on a larger diameter tubes.
I have wondered though, how a Selenium D250-X would fare on a 1" K-Tube for midrange. It could even be used with an adapter on a larger diameter tubes.
I suspect a really good cheap (in the US) "midrange" K-tube driver would be PRV's little D2200ph.
It used to be available for around $60.
D250X might run out of steam above 3K (?)
https://community.klipsch.com/index...-audio-d2200ph-2-driver-on-18-x-10-zxpc-horn/
for horn folks this little driver and its inexpensive replacement diaphragm could be a real joy compared to overpriced Atlas/Klipsch and vintage EV drivers
It used to be available for around $60.
D250X might run out of steam above 3K (?)
https://community.klipsch.com/index...-audio-d2200ph-2-driver-on-18-x-10-zxpc-horn/
for horn folks this little driver and its inexpensive replacement diaphragm could be a real joy compared to overpriced Atlas/Klipsch and vintage EV drivers
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I wonder how a 3" or even 4" fullrange speaker would fare on a 2" 0r 3" ID K-tube ? - could be some cheap fun if you have anything like that laying around.Years back I made some 2" tubes (see leftmost on the Peavey head) but didn't have anything appropriate to drive.
One thing I'd like to emphasize, there a probably a lot of fun and good fullrange combinations with heritage Karlson,
GregB's Karlsonator series (Karlsonator 12/8/5) XRK91's mini Karlsonators and "XKi".
FE206E works in a number of sizes and igreat fun in a K12.
Your TK6 points to good possibilities. We need some general recipe as there's plenty to play with.
One thing I'd like to emphasize, there a probably a lot of fun and good fullrange combinations with heritage Karlson,
GregB's Karlsonator series (Karlsonator 12/8/5) XRK91's mini Karlsonators and "XKi".
FE206E works in a number of sizes and igreat fun in a K12.
Your TK6 points to good possibilities. We need some general recipe as there's plenty to play with.
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hey IG81 - here's what I got for an "XK8" vs Karlsonette K12 with W8-1772. The original aspect had 2-5dB more gain in the 110-220Hz octave. Both cabinets are similar in bulk. I think the 28 inch height should be reduced to maybe 23. XK8 probably needed tuned lower.
I got a bizzare impedancreading with a 3 inch hole vent at the top of the front chamber and Nirvana Super 8.
I got a bizzare impedancreading with a 3 inch hole vent at the top of the front chamber and Nirvana Super 8.
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Hard to say without knowing the response and impedance on your tube. I guess an L-pad to tame the impedance peaks would be a good start. Then a small capacitor in the 1.5µF to 2.2µF range might equalize the off-axis response. You'll then likely have its natural LF rolloff create a kneepoint in the mid-1kHz range, so maybe a swamping resistor and a 2nd order network at 1.5kHz designed to the impedance you ended-up with the components you used downstream. It's a bit like with a CD-waveguide.
I have yet to set up my tubes over anything, while I work on the TD15M enclosure modifications and its DSP + ICEpower 4ch amp. I'm just using small fullrange DCR`s for now.
I have yet to set up my tubes over anything, while I work on the TD15M enclosure modifications and its DSP + ICEpower 4ch amp. I'm just using small fullrange DCR`s for now.
- got a project for you to "perfect" -make the best K-midrange module for multiway use.
What size driver might be a good compromise? What can be done to minimize chamber resonances before resorting to front chamber damping materials ? (perhaps holes at the top of the chamber covered with melamine sponges?)
I'd like a midrange to play close to 120dB peaks without burnout or over excursion.
What size driver might be a good compromise? What can be done to minimize chamber resonances before resorting to front chamber damping materials ? (perhaps holes at the top of the chamber covered with melamine sponges?)
I'd like a midrange to play close to 120dB peaks without burnout or over excursion.
Hey IG81
I'd like your thoughts regarding making a stellar "K10". There is nothing wrong with Karlson's K12 with some 10" speakers. but it could be interesting to try something "new"
Driver type ("home" vs PA") affects LF cutoff.. My recent KUBE12 with Kappa 12a shows a pretty solid 70Hz with F6 in the low 60's for a one cubic foot back chamber.
Celestion's TF1020 probably would make a .OK "K10. I have Peerless Tymphany "Pro" 10" which probably are a good match for some K10 plus some monster Eminence 10(cx) with 80oz magnet.
-those have no horn and woould immediately adapt to a coax k-tube.
An internally mounted 1.5x scaled Transylavania Powestyle K-tube with 1.4" driver might be the tweeter.- I want lively acoustic guitar and drum transients
Talk of higher aspect and a curved reflector have been said to improve the art. It's unfortunate we don't have an ally fluent with Akaback 3 to work out favorable chamber shape/reflector curve vs aperture..
What are your thoughts on a curved reflector and where to set its 'focus"?
I'd like your thoughts regarding making a stellar "K10". There is nothing wrong with Karlson's K12 with some 10" speakers. but it could be interesting to try something "new"
Driver type ("home" vs PA") affects LF cutoff.. My recent KUBE12 with Kappa 12a shows a pretty solid 70Hz with F6 in the low 60's for a one cubic foot back chamber.
Celestion's TF1020 probably would make a .OK "K10. I have Peerless Tymphany "Pro" 10" which probably are a good match for some K10 plus some monster Eminence 10(cx) with 80oz magnet.
-those have no horn and woould immediately adapt to a coax k-tube.
An internally mounted 1.5x scaled Transylavania Powestyle K-tube with 1.4" driver might be the tweeter.- I want lively acoustic guitar and drum transients
Talk of higher aspect and a curved reflector have been said to improve the art. It's unfortunate we don't have an ally fluent with Akaback 3 to work out favorable chamber shape/reflector curve vs aperture..
What are your thoughts on a curved reflector and where to set its 'focus"?
