I finally took the plunge and ordered myself a pair of Markaudio drivers. This shall be my first DIY audio project that has actually got off the ground with me actually ordering something to start it off shall also be my first set of full rangers so am very excited on both accounts.
Drivers were supposed to arrive today but courier has let me down so they shall be arriving tomorrow.
I'm thinking of building a couple of small MDF boxes to break the speakers in with while building the FHXLs. What small box design should I use do you think?
Is there a break in procedure written up anywhere?
Drivers were supposed to arrive today but courier has let me down so they shall be arriving tomorrow.
I'm thinking of building a couple of small MDF boxes to break the speakers in with while building the FHXLs. What small box design should I use do you think?
Is there a break in procedure written up anywhere?
congratulations with your decision!
You'll find MarkAudio drivers to be amazing value for money, if not one of the bests.
You must be prepared to wait min 200 hours of break in to fully evaluate your drivers.
Maybe this thread should be on Markaudio forum? There you'll find a couple of threads about break in.
good luck and happy listening!!!
You'll find MarkAudio drivers to be amazing value for money, if not one of the bests.
You must be prepared to wait min 200 hours of break in to fully evaluate your drivers.
Maybe this thread should be on Markaudio forum? There you'll find a couple of threads about break in.
good luck and happy listening!!!
Thanks. [emoji4]
Yeah I think it's a good decision. The drivers are so unbelievably cheap that it would be rude NOT to build a pair. I'm aware of the amount of breaking in that they require so I thought if I put them in a simple box out the way somewhere and leave them running for a couple of weeks that'll get the boring bit out of the way haha.
I was planning on spending around £800 buying a used pair or 2 or 3 ways, but I don't think that there are many speakers out there that interest me at that price point. I can build these for a LOT less.
I have done a huge amount of reading up on these FHXLs and I think they should serve me just fine.
I'll hold off on signing up to another forum just yet. There is plenty of knowledge here that I can't even begin to get to grips with!
Actually what Gaston had meant is the Mark Audio section of the diyAudio forum.
No sign up required.
God I'm thickActually what Gaston had meant is the Mark Audio section of the diyAudio forum.
No sign up required.
Lol.
If you have spare time and enough build material at your disposal, you can maybe build one of the BR boxes designed by Scottmoose.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/250751-bass-reflex-standmounts-10-3-10p.html
Btw, even make shift small size open baffles are fine as long as the construction is stable and the drivers are safe from kiddos and pets (and nosy adults).
And hey, some folks do the driver break-within the shipping boxes. I myself have done it.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/250751-bass-reflex-standmounts-10-3-10p.html
Btw, even make shift small size open baffles are fine as long as the construction is stable and the drivers are safe from kiddos and pets (and nosy adults).
And hey, some folks do the driver break-within the shipping boxes. I myself have done it.
You know what, I think you are excited (and a bit impatient) about the build!
the word is "chuffed", I think
I've found Mark Audio drivers to be some of the best I've used. A point to remember about them: in addition to the initial break-in, which is very important, they will continue to break-in for a few hundred hours more. As they are breaking in further, they'll continue to sound better. If you do a search for "Mark Audio break-in" you should get plenty of information.
Mike
Mike
Haha.You know what, I think you are excited (and a bit impatient) about the build!
I am excited but the way I work I need to keep motivated and move as quickly as possible otherwise things stagnate. I really need to get these built before the weather picks up and I'll be wanting to get back in the garage building my track car lol!
Got to figure out how to do this veneering too...
Ah very good! I could make a pair of those this week if I have time. Need to find some tube and stuffing though.If you have spare time and enough build material at your disposal, you can maybe build one of the BR boxes designed by Scottmoose.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/250751-bass-reflex-standmounts-10-3-10p.html
Btw, even make shift small size open baffles are fine as long as the construction is stable and the drivers are safe from kiddos and pets (and nosy adults).
And hey, some folks do the driver break-within the shipping boxes. I myself have done it.
If its really not necessary to have them in boxes I'll just break them in open on my desk using my spare integrated with the radio.
I have about a meter of Chord Company Rumour speaker cable sitting spate that I had left over from making some jumpers once. Is there any good reason I shouldn't use this for the wiring inside my FHXLs? The speaker cable that I use in my system is Chord Odyssey, which is the same just thicker (more strands) and I have no intention of ever changing it unless I one day need something longer. It's silver plated copper in Teflon I believe.
I was looking at these for binding posts.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=400790870192&alt=web
Are they OK?
I have about a meter of Chord Company Rumour speaker cable sitting spate that I had left over from making some jumpers once. Is there any good reason I shouldn't use this for the wiring inside my FHXLs? The speaker cable that I use in my system is Chord Odyssey, which is the same just thicker (more strands) and I have no intention of ever changing it unless I one day need something longer. It's silver plated copper in Teflon I believe.
I was looking at these for binding posts.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=400790870192&alt=web
Are they OK?
mmm, you may be as surprised as I was, but the ones who knows and often give us good advice, say that the best cable for these type of FR is just a pair of computer network cable. Say orange and orange-white for right channel. You would have to strip the cable first, easily done pulling the white nylon stripe.
it's extremely cheap and being solid core and single strand they say it gives the best balance for this application.
it's extremely cheap and being solid core and single strand they say it gives the best balance for this application.
Surely a pair of strands from a cat5 could be replaced with any pair of 24awg pure copper conductors twisted together? You split them from a cat5 cable then you completely lose the multi core twist properties of the cat5 certification (ultra high frequency capacity, low capacitance, low inductance).
We use a cheapie round terminal cup that can be installed after assembly from the outside, and a single strand of #24 solid as described above, soldered.
Considering the size of voice coil conductor, length of internal wire required, and total amount of current likely to be drawn under load, AFAIC, anything thicker than #20 at the max is probably superfluous.
Now Cal Weldon's big boy party monsters, different story,
Considering the size of voice coil conductor, length of internal wire required, and total amount of current likely to be drawn under load, AFAIC, anything thicker than #20 at the max is probably superfluous.
Now Cal Weldon's big boy party monsters, different story,
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