Hi first post . . . I've been doing a lot of reading A LOT and I have narrowed down my first, and needs to be fast, project to the Kanspea speaker kits. I have learned a lot, but mostly my head still spins when it comes to how to mix and match components for the best results.
I have seen some great projects in my web travels (including the fonkens of course), but reality dictates these speaker kits for now. I also think I will like the full-range sound.
These are going to be desktop computer speakers in a small 10x12 room. Emphasis is on sitting at my desk. I don't move around the room much.
My instinct was to get the 4" (ff10kwk) set because the shape/footprint matches where I want to put them including the extra height of the 4", and bigger box, etc. But I also know there is so much more to it than that.
I plan to use these with a the TB W5-1138SM sub speaker in a 7"x7"x7" cube design by Dan P what he calls the no router - no problem subwoofer Speaker Project - NRNP No Router, No Problem Computer Sub -- 7/2/2013
Amplification will most likely be the Lepai 2020 (modified) and the SA25 Sub plate. Though I have also considered the Lepai 2.1 since it can drive two subs which I have considered using.
None of this is written in stone. I have considered leaving the sub out to start and/or going with a larger under the table the subwoofer. But the above sub is such an easy build and will fit under the monitor bridge where the speakers will be sitting. I have considered using two of them as well.
So one of my question is reasons to consider the 3" ff85wk over the 4" ff105wk. I notice that many mini speaker designs use 3" drivers and the ff85wk gets more 'press' as you browse through forums and look at projects around the fostex ff drivers. How much does my sub choice influence that decision?
I have seen some great projects in my web travels (including the fonkens of course), but reality dictates these speaker kits for now. I also think I will like the full-range sound.
These are going to be desktop computer speakers in a small 10x12 room. Emphasis is on sitting at my desk. I don't move around the room much.
My instinct was to get the 4" (ff10kwk) set because the shape/footprint matches where I want to put them including the extra height of the 4", and bigger box, etc. But I also know there is so much more to it than that.
I plan to use these with a the TB W5-1138SM sub speaker in a 7"x7"x7" cube design by Dan P what he calls the no router - no problem subwoofer Speaker Project - NRNP No Router, No Problem Computer Sub -- 7/2/2013
Amplification will most likely be the Lepai 2020 (modified) and the SA25 Sub plate. Though I have also considered the Lepai 2.1 since it can drive two subs which I have considered using.
None of this is written in stone. I have considered leaving the sub out to start and/or going with a larger under the table the subwoofer. But the above sub is such an easy build and will fit under the monitor bridge where the speakers will be sitting. I have considered using two of them as well.
So one of my question is reasons to consider the 3" ff85wk over the 4" ff105wk. I notice that many mini speaker designs use 3" drivers and the ff85wk gets more 'press' as you browse through forums and look at projects around the fostex ff drivers. How much does my sub choice influence that decision?
If you are at a desk and have a sub, I can suggest that you look at the Vifa TC9FD 3.5 in driver. It is flat as a board frequency response when put in a Nautaloss sealed TL cabinet. Will probably work pretty well in a straight well-damped rectangular prism cabinet. The response extends from 150 Hz to 18 kHz and the mids are very smooth and natural. There is substantial "air" in them and it does not feel like a tweeter is missing. At desk distances, you only need the Nautaloss I (single driver). Check it out here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/247598-nautaloss-ref-monitor.html
If you don't like the rounded look, a more modern angular approach is possible (just use single driver).
Here is the typical response and great -50dB typical THD levels:
I like the NRNP sub - thanks for posting that link. I like projects that are based on convenience and availability of stock materials - like 3 ft section of a 1' x 8' board.
Do you have a link to the Kanspea kits you are talking about?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/247598-nautaloss-ref-monitor.html
If you don't like the rounded look, a more modern angular approach is possible (just use single driver).
Here is the typical response and great -50dB typical THD levels:
I like the NRNP sub - thanks for posting that link. I like projects that are based on convenience and availability of stock materials - like 3 ft section of a 1' x 8' board.
Do you have a link to the Kanspea kits you are talking about?
With you choose to use a sub, i'd go with FF85wk, it is one of my favourite drivers. The FF105 will go lower, but loses out by a tiny bit everywhere else.
dave
dave
Links:
The 4" at Madison Sound The Madisound Speaker Store
3" at Madison Sound The Madisound Speaker Store
Fostex site KANSPEA | DIY Speaker by FOSTEX
The 4" at Madison Sound The Madisound Speaker Store
3" at Madison Sound The Madisound Speaker Store
Fostex site KANSPEA | DIY Speaker by FOSTEX
It is very cool with a sub-plate for a back baffle and no circle to cut.
But I wonder about it's small size. When I calculate the numbers for that driver they come out to 5+ liters for a sealed cabinet.
For you or Dave (or anyone else) - any thoughts on the integration of the NRNP sub with the fostex kanspeak cabinet(s)s? To quote the project page for the sub "The internal volume comes out close to 2.5L, which, with a little stuffing, gives the system a Qtc of around 0.85 and an F3 of around 70Hz"
The 3" Kanspea cabinet is 1.6 liters (assuming 1/2" sides) which I believe is small for the ff85wk. When I run the numbers on the speaker it comes out to more like ~3L
I'd be especially interested in comments about the NRNP sub (or even two of them) on my desk vs a 8" sealed sub under the desk using the .75 knockdown cabinet from PE.
I hope I'm not being too much of a pain, especially with such a humble kit, but it's hard to sort this stuff out when you are new to this and the people here know full range drivers.
I have been listening to the FF85wk in this kit and it is very enjoyable. This driver is very fast and detailed. These drivers love acoustic jazz and folk music but for rock and more complicated recordings I think larger drivers by themselves are in order. I have a pair of FF105wk drivers but have yet done nothing with them. I am driving the FF85wk speakers with a stock Sure TPA3110 amplifier board which is a Texas Instruments chip. After hearing this exceptional amplifier, I would not recommend any Tripath amplifier at any price. Either look at the 12 volt Sure TPA3110 from Parts Express or one of the 24 volt TPA3116 amplifiers from China but these I have not personally heard. I also have a Topping TP60.
+1 on the $10 Sure TPA3110D2 amp from PE. I use it with a 19v laptop brick and it rocks. Amazing amp - you cannot believe the sound from such an inexpensive and tiny package the size of a credit card.
I also have the 3116 and it has same sound quality just able to drive 40 watts cleanly.
I will have to try the FF85wk one of these days.
I also have the 3116 and it has same sound quality just able to drive 40 watts cleanly.
I will have to try the FF85wk one of these days.
I forgot to mention that I have the TPA3110 hooked up to a Meier Audio Corda Prehead as a power amplifier. This will cleanly drive the FF85wk units way louder than I would ever care to listen. I will be getting a TPA3116 some day but this would probably be overkill for any Fostex full range driver at least when using a preamplifier.
I've been looking at these as well. Basically you're paying $38 for the pair of cabinets over the cost of the raw drivers if you don't purchase the amp..
The cabinets use t9 particle board material (9mm?) which is @3/8in IINM. The 3" P800-E is said to be 1.86L and tuned to 101hz. The P1000-E is listed at 3.6L and tuned to 82hz.
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/p800e-p1000e.pdf
R/
Jim
The cabinets use t9 particle board material (9mm?) which is @3/8in IINM. The 3" P800-E is said to be 1.86L and tuned to 101hz. The P1000-E is listed at 3.6L and tuned to 82hz.
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/p800e-p1000e.pdf
R/
Jim
Thank you, this is great input for me. Nothing is chiseled in stone yet, I was looking at the uFonken plans when I saw your reply.
At this point I can only consider an off the shelf amplifier. But I have a budget that stretches beyond the 2020 amps, but not sure what kind of budget I need to reach some vague idea of the SQ I want, and I'm stubbornly hanging on to the idea of having tone control, though intellectually I know they become less important as SQ improves.
I have considered the Topping amps, hearing they are more tube like and reading some people say that tube amps are a good match for full range drivers. But you read a lot of stuff said about a lot of things. I'm also considering the NMST pre-modded Lepai, but not sure if the increase in SQ is worth the money.
The Lepai and Topping use old technology Tripath. The Tpa3116 and 3110 are state of the art from TI and not expensive. You can get tpa3116 2.1 with nice aluminum case for $55. That is 50watts x 2 ch plus 100 watt sub. Look in class D forum for tpa3116d2 thread to see what people are talking about.
In a nutshell, a fully modified Lepai will bring it up to Topping quality and no Topping ever made is anywhere near as good as the $10 Sure TPA3110. As word gets around, it seems like Parts Express is having a hard time keeping these in stock. Even though these are only $10, try to find one. Mine is absolutely not foe sale.
I found the Tpa3116 2.1 completed in a case on Ebay for $54 with free shipping. I'll consider it.
ssportclay thanks for the simple break down of the progression of the amps from the Lepai to the ones based on the Ti chips. That kind of thing really helps me.
ssportclay thanks for the simple break down of the progression of the amps from the Lepai to the ones based on the Ti chips. That kind of thing really helps me.
I found an ebay source for the tpa3116 2.1 fully assembled in case on Ebay. What do I use for a power supply? I see people talking about various things about wiring this and wiring that. Is there no just here is the PS plug it in?
Use standard 19 volt laptop brick power supply. $8 variety on Amazon if you don't already have one.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Adapter-Charger-Toshiba-Satellite/dp/B003U8CRGY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Adapter-Charger-Toshiba-Satellite/dp/B003U8CRGY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2
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Something is confusing me about using the 3116 2.1. If it has has an amplified subwoofer output, how do you adjust the gain/xover like you would with a plate amp? I've tried to think this trough myself with what I know about high-level out, vs filtered low level, pass -x-overs, etc. But I just don't understand the signal chain well enough. I don't need full on basics. I do no the difference between a 'speaker' and line level and what a X-over does.
Can someone help me understand a little better.
I have decided on the ff85wk version of the kit, and will be using the NRNP sub (just one) which is why i'm up to how to amplify it.
Thank you for the input you given
Can someone help me understand a little better.
I have decided on the ff85wk version of the kit, and will be using the NRNP sub (just one) which is why i'm up to how to amplify it.
Thank you for the input you given
The xo and sub gain are controlled by two pots on the amp, the left and right run full range. The xo is perfromed onboard with some op amps prior to going to the two separate amps.
I found a picture of the front of the amp and they are marked bass, treble and volume.
Do you mean adjustable trim pots on the board?
Do you mean adjustable trim pots on the board?
There is an amp made by Breeze Audio on Aliexpress that has correct adjustable XO freq. I think the YJ one is mislabeled and I am double checking with manufacturer to see if Treble Knob is indeed XO Freq knob as specs say freq is adjustable. Get the Breeze to be sure.
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