See this post for a photo of my Simple SE.
I used the big 1628SEA Hammonds as you can see. I had to use a large chassis to fit everything. That's a 17x10 Hammond steel chassis. I don't know if aluminium would be strong enough.
I used the big 1628SEA Hammonds as you can see. I had to use a large chassis to fit everything. That's a 17x10 Hammond steel chassis. I don't know if aluminium would be strong enough.
Yeah, I hate to spend more on this project, its well over 500 already, an initially i thought i could pull it off with 300 =(.
Can I trust the "standard" color codes on tubelabs website or are the allied and hammonds wired differently?
oh btw. my hammond's look really really ugly, anyone know how I can make them look like everyone elses? with the black coverings or those little boxes on top?
Can I trust the "standard" color codes on tubelabs website or are the allied and hammonds wired differently?
oh btw. my hammond's look really really ugly, anyone know how I can make them look like everyone elses? with the black coverings or those little boxes on top?
I never trust. It's nothing personal, but it's good to do some homework first. You don't want to damage those nice 1627SEA's.
If your transformers didn't come potted then I would suggest not trying to pot them. Just to be safe.
If your transformers didn't come potted then I would suggest not trying to pot them. Just to be safe.
does anyone have the wiring chart for the allied transformer? The sticker on the bottom and the website doesn't offer any help. and whats a 1627sea?
good news! i found a handy friend whos willing to custom make a simple enclosure for me =)
good news! i found a handy friend whos willing to custom make a simple enclosure for me =)
Sounds like a good "starter project". If you are having a custom enclosure made, make room for the choke and supplementary capacitor. I think that chassis construction is the hardest part of building these things, so if you can make it easier for future upgrades, then you are more likely to experiment/upgrade. I used these capacitors Ebay motor run cap 500VAC 80uF they are only $12. As mentioned above, an inexpensive choke and supplemental cap will probably make the greatest change to your system and don't really cost that much.
nukaidee said:
I think he is saying he got the open frame Hammond "universal" transformers. They look something like the Edcors that cjkpkg used on his Simple SE.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1622038#post1622038
The wiring on the Allied 6K7vG power transformer will follow the "industry standard" colors. Yellow is 5v, green is 6.3v, red is the high voltage. The diagrams on the tubelab web site should be helpful.
http://tubelab.com/SimpleSE_wiring.htm
My fault. Too much egg nog I guess. 125-CSE's. They should be small enough transformers that you may be able to mount under the chassis instead of on top. That assumes you'll have enough room underneath though.
Thanks for all your comments. I think I'll pass on the choke for now and stick to the resistor and my EMI filter. my current plan for the box is 9x12x3" . I think i'll measure the hammonds and see if they fit inside the box, that is a good idea. I can get motor run caps if i really need to locally at a parts surplus store. I am following the wiring on tubelab website and was just wondering if those color codes are safe, I guess it is. I'm just missing a pot now =( but I guess it'll be ok since most of my source is routed through my computer. Maybe the pots can wait unless if there is somewhere that wont charge me more for shipping than the pot ><!
9"x12" sounds small. I think mine was 9"x14", and I felt cramped.
Too bad there's no Radio Shack in Canada. These pots are cheap and work well enough to get you started:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062359
Too bad there's no Radio Shack in Canada. These pots are cheap and work well enough to get you started:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062359
would you be willing to send me one via usps letter? like 1 dollar shipping? i can pay you via paypal etc?
I see. You bought chassis mount octal sockets. You should have ordered PC mount octal sockets. Notice the difference on the bottoms of the contacts?
I'm not confident your "bend it and solder anyway" technique is going to hold up well in the long run. Of course, now that it is done, trying to take them back off may cause more harm than good.
I'm not confident your "bend it and solder anyway" technique is going to hold up well in the long run. Of course, now that it is done, trying to take them back off may cause more harm than good.
I dont plan to be rolling tubes etc. i hope they'll last a couple inserts etc, i'm reverse mounting so there isn't too much stress on the sockets. If they do fall off i'll hafta figure something else.
a) You could squeeze the loops/eye narrower to fit in pcb.
b) You could use a cutoff resistor-leg to make a loop up thru the socket-eye, and back down for soldering...
c) ...already mentioned; pcb-mountable sockets...
Arne K
b) You could use a cutoff resistor-leg to make a loop up thru the socket-eye, and back down for soldering...
c) ...already mentioned; pcb-mountable sockets...
Arne K
He says he has already bent and soldered them to the surface of the board. I wouldn't mess with them any further, unless they turn out to give trouble later. Trying to unsolder them now is likely to lift a trace or damage the circuit board.
yeah, i just bent the legs at 90 degrees and soldered them like any surface mount components. I think it should be okay its a pretty solid solder.
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