Keep to original value because the time constant of that negative rail plays an important part in how quickly the relay drops out on power off. Also don't forget just how long this must have worked for since new... so just fit a good quality modern replacement.
Ultimately the 'ripple current rating' is an important factor (given in data sheets for caps) and higher is better. Also (and I'm not saying to do this) but fitting something like a 4.7 ohm in series with the AC (in series with the diode) can dramatically reduce peak ripple current seen by the cap but as mentioned, a modern part is all you need and will likely be far better than the originals or that era.
Ultimately the 'ripple current rating' is an important factor (given in data sheets for caps) and higher is better. Also (and I'm not saying to do this) but fitting something like a 4.7 ohm in series with the AC (in series with the diode) can dramatically reduce peak ripple current seen by the cap but as mentioned, a modern part is all you need and will likely be far better than the originals or that era.
Got a tougher one. I have a Nikko Alpha III that I cant set the idle current on. I just installed some used Exicon mosfets. A bit of history. I bought this off
This needs to be in a thread of its own 🙂 I'll move it.
Got a tougher one. I have a Nikko Alpha III that I cant set the idle current on. I just installed some used Exicon mosfets. A bit of history. I bought this off ebay along with a Nikko Beta 30. The beta 30 was completely recapped along with some new transistors in the power supply and installed some LM4562 opamps and it sounds great. The Alpha III was doing very well and had bought all the hardware needed for a complete recap. Bad storm hits and pulled my power lines loose enough I had a lost neutral condition and my power protector got a 160v surge, uh yeah. Alpha III smoked and the J49...