G'day
which is Australian for "Hello"
I just bought a new turntable, the first in many years, Project bottom of the line Model 1.2
I need a new stand and as I haven't used a belt drive in a number of years I am playing catch-up on bases.
I have a slab of 32mm MDF here and a second hand three legged rack with all the glass shelves missing.
I was thinking of a sandwich of the MDF, followed by 10mm Acrylic ( which I have) and buying a sheet of 6mm glass and bonding all three together with epozy resin.
Question please; is epoxy the best way to do this??
Is the 3-layer sandwich a good idea??
Money is tight at the moment as I am still looking for work.
Or would it be a better idea to save and buy a slab of polished granite or marble.
Thanx in advance for your help.
Regards
Ted
which is Australian for "Hello"
I just bought a new turntable, the first in many years, Project bottom of the line Model 1.2
I need a new stand and as I haven't used a belt drive in a number of years I am playing catch-up on bases.
I have a slab of 32mm MDF here and a second hand three legged rack with all the glass shelves missing.
I was thinking of a sandwich of the MDF, followed by 10mm Acrylic ( which I have) and buying a sheet of 6mm glass and bonding all three together with epozy resin.
Question please; is epoxy the best way to do this??
Is the 3-layer sandwich a good idea??
Money is tight at the moment as I am still looking for work.
Or would it be a better idea to save and buy a slab of polished granite or marble.
Thanx in advance for your help.
Regards
Ted
G'day Ted,
in my opinion a solid shelf on the wall will be a much better place for a turntable than a rack.
When using a rack, I would place the TT on a heavy base. I don't believe that a sandwich construction has advantages here; just make sure that the rack is not prone to footfall sound...
Boris
in my opinion a solid shelf on the wall will be a much better place for a turntable than a rack.
When using a rack, I would place the TT on a heavy base. I don't believe that a sandwich construction has advantages here; just make sure that the rack is not prone to footfall sound...
Boris
So the old-fashioned sand filled box on the floor and a solid bit of concrete to rest the stand on then?? Unfortunately the drought has loosened up the floorboards in my house, and it's a rental so structural modifications to the house ( such as shelves ) are out.
Yes, something like that. Several years ago I made some experiments with the placement of a Rega Planar3. These lightweight turntables change the characteristic of their sound depending on where/how they were placed pretty much
a shelf need not be a structural element.
Here in North America, renters often hang pictures, shelves, etc on their walls. All you need are 4 lag bolts of a suitable size (don't use wall anchors).
Then get some heavy duty shelf standards and whatever shelving material you choose.
Wall mounts are superior.
stew
Here in North America, renters often hang pictures, shelves, etc on their walls. All you need are 4 lag bolts of a suitable size (don't use wall anchors).
Then get some heavy duty shelf standards and whatever shelving material you choose.
Wall mounts are superior.
stew
Things seem to have changed
Why are shelves superior when every shop is pushing stands?/
Apart from the extra sale ??
Why are shelves superior when every shop is pushing stands?/
Apart from the extra sale ??
If built well, the wall effectively decouples the table from the floor..which is basically a spring. A "load bearing" wall is best.
Casey
why are shelves better, when....
As pointed out, if the walls are well built (and load bearing ones usually are), then they are often not subject to "floor bounce". Another alternative if the floor is springy (but well built) is to mass load the floor, using concrete pavers or headstones or whatever heavy appropriately sized flat object you can get. Put a good stand on the heavy object and it will help immensely.
Stands are very good, but do need something to mass load the floor in concert with them. Then you need to de-couple the turntable shelf (usually the top shelf on an audio stand) from the rest of the stand. This can be done using spikes, etc, marbles, or better yet, squash balls (they are spongy and inexpensive....)
As pointed out, if the walls are well built (and load bearing ones usually are), then they are often not subject to "floor bounce". Another alternative if the floor is springy (but well built) is to mass load the floor, using concrete pavers or headstones or whatever heavy appropriately sized flat object you can get. Put a good stand on the heavy object and it will help immensely.
Stands are very good, but do need something to mass load the floor in concert with them. Then you need to de-couple the turntable shelf (usually the top shelf on an audio stand) from the rest of the stand. This can be done using spikes, etc, marbles, or better yet, squash balls (they are spongy and inexpensive....)
ceiling hanging...
true again, but one must ensure they hit a stud or joist in the ceiling as well..
and still create some kind of decoupling device between the components and the rack....
true again, but one must ensure they hit a stud or joist in the ceiling as well..
and still create some kind of decoupling device between the components and the rack....
Ok Wall mounted shelves "Better" but for various reasons i'll go with a stand, luckily I have some very heavy concrete slabs I can use to mass load the floor and a selection of spikes, I have to investigate the squish balls as I've not seen any locally or do you mean ordinary racquet type squash balls?
squash balls....
Yes, racquet type squash balls , as used in the game of Squash..
they are quite effective at decoupling shelves, etc.
Yes, racquet type squash balls , as used in the game of Squash..
they are quite effective at decoupling shelves, etc.
Moondog55 said:
Hi Ted. A very strange sandwich indeed. Whatever you do, don't jump for granite/marble because they look cool and some guys love them. I suspect they are the same guys who once couldn't keep their fingers off the loudness switch 🙂
IME experience most stones impart a very strong artificial colouration. Slate is quite a bit better than granite but still requires attention and other materials to sound good.
I suggest you search for "symposium clone" at the vinyl asylum. It's simple and cheap, although it may take a while to collect all the materials. It sounds much better than any single material shelf and provides very decent isolation. Nanook's squash balls between two acrylic shelves will also work well.
shelves con't....
here's a little recipe for a very nice sounding "rack":
The Ikea "Lack Rack"
not designed by me, but suggested by Ken Lyons of Neuance isolation platforms http://www.neuanceaudio.com/ .
In Australia, IKEA sells the Lack range of tables...(Lack Tables). An effective well isolated DIY rack can be made by stacking the Lack tables together to achieve the number of shelves required. Cut the legs down if you don't need 19" between them. drill a small countersink into each and use a marble attached to the counter-bore with some blue tack or similar. You would still need to put the whole rack on something solid.. basically for less than AUD $100 a very good sounding, quite good looking rack (particularly well suited for turntables...)
stew
here's a little recipe for a very nice sounding "rack":
The Ikea "Lack Rack"
not designed by me, but suggested by Ken Lyons of Neuance isolation platforms http://www.neuanceaudio.com/ .
In Australia, IKEA sells the Lack range of tables...(Lack Tables). An effective well isolated DIY rack can be made by stacking the Lack tables together to achieve the number of shelves required. Cut the legs down if you don't need 19" between them. drill a small countersink into each and use a marble attached to the counter-bore with some blue tack or similar. You would still need to put the whole rack on something solid.. basically for less than AUD $100 a very good sounding, quite good looking rack (particularly well suited for turntables...)
stew
Ikea Has changed the design :-(
They were a great idea but unfortunately in most countries IKEA sell the tables with hollow legs. I can tell you this because I took a chance and bought three after reading the old articles on the Net.
The threaded end of the leg is OK with about 50 mm of solid wood plug, the other has about 5 mm!
I stacked them up full size and used them to stored other stuff on🙂
Some say the Cherry tables are still solid but I cannot confirm that.
They were a great idea but unfortunately in most countries IKEA sell the tables with hollow legs. I can tell you this because I took a chance and bought three after reading the old articles on the Net.
The threaded end of the leg is OK with about 50 mm of solid wood plug, the other has about 5 mm!
I stacked them up full size and used them to stored other stuff on🙂
Some say the Cherry tables are still solid but I cannot confirm that.
G'day mate...well not sure, how much that matters...
but the best part of the Lack is the top surface anyways. you could run some all-thread from top to bottom...with acorn nuts on top and bottom (through the 3 layers of legs...etc...).
the legs could be filled with foam or similar...
seems Canucks and Ausies have an affinity for each other...no need for an explanation to "Aausieisms". I spell "color" as colour, liter as litre, etc. Younger folks here only know American spelling...
but the best part of the Lack is the top surface anyways. you could run some all-thread from top to bottom...with acorn nuts on top and bottom (through the 3 layers of legs...etc...).
the legs could be filled with foam or similar...
seems Canucks and Ausies have an affinity for each other...no need for an explanation to "Aausieisms". I spell "color" as colour, liter as litre, etc. Younger folks here only know American spelling...
Moondoq55.
interesting topic. you need to ask yourself one very important question. Where will the vibrations come from? Answer, your very own speakers. their job is to create vibration. Forget hangin the system from the ceiling, think about putting the deck and cd in another room. This is no problem, lets face it most systems are against a wall. Therefore put the deck in the room behind the one where the speakers are drill holes in the wall and connect to the amp. forget spending money on anything which isnt a record
interesting topic. you need to ask yourself one very important question. Where will the vibrations come from? Answer, your very own speakers. their job is to create vibration. Forget hangin the system from the ceiling, think about putting the deck and cd in another room. This is no problem, lets face it most systems are against a wall. Therefore put the deck in the room behind the one where the speakers are drill holes in the wall and connect to the amp. forget spending money on anything which isnt a record
That is a really good point, but given the layout of most Aussie houses not really practical.
It isn't the vibration of the speakers that is the real problen though, given the drought here and the drying out of the ground it is the trucks on the road and the train at the bottom of the street a kilometer away that are a much bigger problem, compared to a 42 tonne semi-trailer the vibration from my speakers is nothing
It isn't the vibration of the speakers that is the real problen though, given the drought here and the drying out of the ground it is the trucks on the road and the train at the bottom of the street a kilometer away that are a much bigger problem, compared to a 42 tonne semi-trailer the vibration from my speakers is nothing
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