Just picked up a Marantz CD-94 mkII: schem/ser manual + modding suggestions?

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As per thread title. 🙂

I have recently come into possession of one of these players, and it's in only what can be described as ALMOST-NEW condition.

It would be great if someone out there could email me copies of the schematic/service manual for the MKII model. The old threads which I have dug up usually mention the mkI model instead.

You can email them to <oh.aaron@gmail.com>

Also, if anyone has any suggestions for mods, please let me know. 🙂
 
Hello Geoff,

Thanks for you help with the service manual. It is really greatly appreciated. 🙂

Anyway, wrt modding the CD-94II, I was thinking more along the lines of replacing whatever components there were that would not have aged well - ie electrolytics (is there anything else that would not age well?).

Also, I was considering replacing the diodes in the PSU with soft-recovery types. In other words, I am eager to 'preserve' the sound of this magnificent player but at the same time hopping that I can take advantage of whatever advances in technology have given us (in the meantime since 1989). 😛

Hello tube-lover - could you give me a little more detail on this mysterious 'peter' character? I'm kinda new around here. 😉
 
Hi guys!

Appreciate if u can email me the ‚“‚…‚’‚–‚‰‚ƒ‚… ‚�‚�‚Ž‚•‚�‚Œ/‚“‚ƒ‚ˆ‚…‚�‚�‚”‚‰‚ƒ ‚”‚�‚� ‚”‚� ‚†‚Œ‚™‚‚‚�‚‰�—g‚�‚�‚‰‚Œ.‚ƒ‚�‚� �BThanks!


Cheers!

Eddy.
 
Hi Tube-lover

I have sent you many emails about my order:

> 20 TDA1541
> 2 CS8414

I sent the money to you almost 10 days ago, but have not heard anything from you

Could you please inform me about how the order is coming along a.s.a.p.

Thank you;

Alexiss
 
I have a CD94 Mk I, but I think the PSU is identical to Mk II. I replaced the diodes D831-4 and D807-10 to BYV27-200, and D841-4 to SF38. Also replaced the 7812 stabilizator to LM2940T-12, the 7912 to LM2990T-12, and the 7805 to LM2940T-5. I found ELNA Cerafine capacitors in the PSU, and I left them. There is also a discrete +5V stabilizer that is as good as it is.
A low jitter master clock is a must.
 
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