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Yo gotta make sure seasonal expansion contraction doesn't produce damage. With a sealed speaker its hard because theres no places for the wood to move.
There are a few guys who post here regularly and build almost exclusively in solid wood - and not just loudspeakers - I'm sure they could offer some tips:
Paul Burchell
Scott Dunn
Bernie Fouchier
apologies to others I've no doubt missed
Paul Burchell
Scott Dunn
Bernie Fouchier
apologies to others I've no doubt missed
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WC if your not knowledgable or exerienced with the demands and limitations wood requires to have a successful build with stress free construction you should use plywood for a simpler build.
If someone tells you sealing all sides of the wood will stop the movement you should ask someone else.
If someone tells you sealing all sides of the wood will stop the movement you should ask someone else.
I have built cabinets out of plywood before. This would be the first time I would build a box where all 6 faces are glued together. I already have the wood so I will give it a try.
I only use solid for 4 sides and plywood with hand sawen veneer on front and rear baffles. My rear baffles are usually removable.
I didnt notice in the post what boxes you are building.
I didnt notice in the post what boxes you are building.
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The narrower the baffle the less stress if you cull through the wood and use quarter sawen stalk for the baffles it moves less across the grain
Assuming the grain on top and bottom runs side to side this will allow the box to ex and contract front to back the problem is wirh the baffles wood wanting to move sideways across the grain creating stress on thr crossgrain glue joint. Adding finish to the inside may slow wood movement but not stop it.
Assuming the grain on top and bottom runs side to side this will allow the box to ex and contract front to back the problem is wirh the baffles wood wanting to move sideways across the grain creating stress on thr crossgrain glue joint. Adding finish to the inside may slow wood movement but not stop it.
Oh ya glued butt joints on solid end grain are weak and will break easy (screws,biscuits,dowels,datoes,dovetails or finger joints)should be used where end grain and long grain meet
I've had pretty good success with combinations of dadoes and brad nails on my plywood builds. When a design calls for removable panels (usually back or bottom), those will be screwed onto perimeter cleats/battens and gasketed with foam weatherstripping tape. Dovetail or finger joints look gorgeous on Apple ply drawer boxes for higher end kitchens and office furniture, but I don't have the skills for that, and prefer post veneered finishes that would hide all that anyway.
I frequently use datoes in construction but never try to match the width to the stock. Rather i run a 1/4 to 3/8" dato across the panel then bring a sakraficial fence to the dato blades on the table saw cutting the mating end close to fit then use a shoulder plane to create a nice slip fit. I never had luck sawing to a slip fit there was always that one that was to tight or worse to loose.
If fitted snug like this glue alone would be sufficent. But if down time waiting for glue to dry is a problem pins can be used. I just dont like wiggling and playing with it while glue is drying.
If fitted snug like this glue alone would be sufficent. But if down time waiting for glue to dry is a problem pins can be used. I just dont like wiggling and playing with it while glue is drying.
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Chris ive been using a hi friction pad with a peel off sticky back from lee valley for sealing removable backs. I cut it into 3/4" strips and stick it to the clets it has a much higher density than typical weather stripping. I think it runs about $20 for a 1'×3' sheet.
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I hope you don't mind me flipping this thread back to the first post.
Hi Chris,
I spotted your speakers on the Jordan site several months ago and was highly intrigued as they are, in broad strokes, very similar to a system that I am currently working on.
This morning I stumbled across this thread.
Rather than translam I am using a more traditional construction method. Like you I am going to use a 5lt sealed enclosure for the eikona and sit this atop a powered sub. I haven't decided yet on whether to use the same seas ROY26/radiator as yourself or to use the scanspeak 23w/4557t00.
My plan is to build the eikona monitors and run them full range, augmented with my current sub. Next build the pair of subs that will double as stands. And finally add an active crossover to roll the bottom half octave or so off the jordans. I found that relieving my current full rangers of bass duties had a large positive impact on the midrange.
As my monitors are going to be in externally squared enclosures I may build a second pair and stack them to give two drivers per side.
I do have one area that I am completely unsure of and hope that you may be able to help. What are you using for your active crossover? Is it analogue or DSP? I gather that it is balanced as the input to your subs plate amp , as spotted in the Jordan site, uses the balanced input.
I just hope my speakers end up looking half as good as yours.
Niffy
Hi Chris,
I spotted your speakers on the Jordan site several months ago and was highly intrigued as they are, in broad strokes, very similar to a system that I am currently working on.
This morning I stumbled across this thread.
Rather than translam I am using a more traditional construction method. Like you I am going to use a 5lt sealed enclosure for the eikona and sit this atop a powered sub. I haven't decided yet on whether to use the same seas ROY26/radiator as yourself or to use the scanspeak 23w/4557t00.
My plan is to build the eikona monitors and run them full range, augmented with my current sub. Next build the pair of subs that will double as stands. And finally add an active crossover to roll the bottom half octave or so off the jordans. I found that relieving my current full rangers of bass duties had a large positive impact on the midrange.
As my monitors are going to be in externally squared enclosures I may build a second pair and stack them to give two drivers per side.
I do have one area that I am completely unsure of and hope that you may be able to help. What are you using for your active crossover? Is it analogue or DSP? I gather that it is balanced as the input to your subs plate amp , as spotted in the Jordan site, uses the balanced input.
I just hope my speakers end up looking half as good as yours.
Niffy
How low will the Eikona 2 go in an open baffle? Trying the determine where I can cross it over with woofers for the lower end.
According to HR it takes a 20 k cm^2 [~56" square] x 34 cm [13.38"] deep baffle/2 pi for 80-90 Hz or same depth except half this size if very near a wall [1 pi], so without using a more advanced software can only say it will probably need to be somewhere in between these two.
GM
GM
I have the first generation Eikona in the VTL cabinet with back removed, so, OB. I use a 4th order bessel at 100Hz, works well.
To jump in, based on customers' experiments, going digital gives much more versatility, at least in the initial stages. You could go for a fixed analogue active crossover once the design and testing stage has been completed in-room.
Re open baffle, again based on feedback from customers, around 200-250 Hz is a good point at which to cross to a bass unit when running the Eikona on an open baffle.
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