Hi Steve,
Look at it this way, you now have the exact specs for that part that John graciously provided us. Use something close or have it custom ordered.
-Chris
Edit: Your post just popped up John. Amazing how that works. 😉
Look at it this way, you now have the exact specs for that part that John graciously provided us. Use something close or have it custom ordered.
-Chris
Edit: Your post just popped up John. Amazing how that works. 😉
Steve Eddy said:Well, yes. It would be easier if DigiKey um... actually stocked that transformer. 😀 se
Read back through this thread and, if you don't move many light years ahead through a combination of true electronics fundamentals tempered by seat of the pants experience, then you're missing a significant piece of the roadwork.
I was ready to nominate John for sainthood after tripping across this thread a couple of years ago, but then, I don't get out much.
If this thread was to take a less judgemental tone and just discuss things at face value, there's alot to learn. No need to simulate, just try this and report back as to what it sounds like...
Ah, but this is 2007 (question: isn't there a really cool high-tech approach to all this?) (Answer: just listen to what is out there in reproduced audio and there's your answer...). A DIY experimenter has a definite leg up.
Man, I could have sworn I put a big green shi*-eatin' grin smiley at the end of my post.
Geez people, loosen up those sphincters a bit.
se
Geez people, loosen up those sphincters a bit.
se
Now that I have given the brand and the part number of the transformer, can we go on with something else? Thanks again, JB for the caps and the Fets, keep them coming!
john curl said:Now that I have given the brand and the part number of the transformer, can we go on with something else?
Oh, please do 🙂
This should be a discussion of philisophy, not a "how do we make JC tell us how to copy his product" chat.
Really, JC is not going to be around forever, better learn from him than copy his design.....
Magura 🙂
Hi John,
I think Magura may be on to something. But, is there something you would like to discuss or ask?
Not that I expect to do any teaching here (far from it), philosophies maybe? Materials and why?
-Chris
I think Magura may be on to something. But, is there something you would like to discuss or ask?
Not that I expect to do any teaching here (far from it), philosophies maybe? Materials and why?
-Chris
John,
I wonder if you could kindly describe sound difference between balanced and single-ended output of this preamp. I assume that the difference might be higher than between balanced and single-ended input of the BT. Just based on simulation, not sonic experience with the BT.
Regards,
Pavel
I wonder if you could kindly describe sound difference between balanced and single-ended output of this preamp. I assume that the difference might be higher than between balanced and single-ended input of the BT. Just based on simulation, not sonic experience with the BT.
Regards,
Pavel
Well I think JC has been very helpful by giving a lot of information on the Blowtorch. So please try to appreciate this!
I don’t have the skills to make a copy of the Blowtorch, but have found some good information to a less complex project.
Thanks Mr. Curl for sharing some ideas and his knowledge.
Vogue
I don’t have the skills to make a copy of the Blowtorch, but have found some good information to a less complex project.
Thanks Mr. Curl for sharing some ideas and his knowledge.
Vogue
Balanced has lower distortion, because it cancels any even harmonics and lowers the drive voltage on each leg to the power amp. Because I am using a Jenna Labs balanced, but unshielded interconnect between the preamp and the power amp, it is best that I use it in balanced mode to cancel any stray pickup from the air.
I am not too concerned with a little extra residual 2'nd harmonic, but it does embarrass me that I did not get it perfect in the first place. The circuit is completely balanced, but the active parts are always a little off, especially from N to P, and this adds extra even order distortion.
I am not too concerned with a little extra residual 2'nd harmonic, but it does embarrass me that I did not get it perfect in the first place. The circuit is completely balanced, but the active parts are always a little off, especially from N to P, and this adds extra even order distortion.
PMA said:Regarding shielding - I design measurement instruments for high power/high voltage testing laboratories and I am quite familiar with this issue. These instruments are influenced by both LF high B and very fast HF EM fields.
Al or Cu are great for shielding HF fields, and also for LF fields (magnetic fields!) in case they are thick enough.
Skin depth for Al:
50Hz ... 11.6mm, 1kHz .... 2.62mm, 10kHz .... 0.82mm
Skin depth for Cu:
50Hz ... 9.3mm, 1kHz ... 2.1mm, 10kHz ... 0.66mm
There is one great advantage of non-magnetic (eddy currents) shielding - no saturation. Iron saturates, depending on permeability. Mumetal or Giron are great for shielding of low intensity LF magnetic fields. But they saturate early (0.7T, 2T) and as soon you get into saturation you loose all advantages.
I have great experience with thick alluminium. I may show photos of casework parts milled from thick alluminium later.
"Skin dept" ... could you explain ...
Planning on making a all alluminum chassis for my passive pre-amp (also almost airtight) - is 8 mm alluminium ok ... or should i try to find something even more heavy.
Vogue
Hi Vogue,
skin depth is nicely described in Wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_depth
much better than I would be able to explain here.
Regarding 8mm Al, it is fine for your purpose. Do not forget to have all the mechanical parts of case electrically connected (there must be no anodization on connecting surfaces).
Also, see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis
to understand saturation in iron.
Regards,
Pavel
skin depth is nicely described in Wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_depth
much better than I would be able to explain here.
Regarding 8mm Al, it is fine for your purpose. Do not forget to have all the mechanical parts of case electrically connected (there must be no anodization on connecting surfaces).
Also, see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis
to understand saturation in iron.
Regards,
Pavel
Thick, almost seamless aluminum works really well. It just keeps the RFI out of the unshielded switches and pots. We can use pure connecting wire, with coaxial shielding for internal hookup What a concept!
Question to you shielding experts:
I have access to stainless steel sheets of 2mm (0.079inch) and 3 mm thickness (0.12inch). How would that compare with aluminium as far as screening of an enclosure is concerned?
Jan Didden
I have access to stainless steel sheets of 2mm (0.079inch) and 3 mm thickness (0.12inch). How would that compare with aluminium as far as screening of an enclosure is concerned?
Jan Didden
Back when I played around with these factors last time, I found that either 20mm of aluminum or 10mm of carbon brings you to the point of diminishing returns....And really, if you're willing to take on the trouble of making an 8mm thick box, you might as well go all the way and make it 20mm. It will not cost you much more and it will be the same amount of work.
Magura 🙂
Magura 🙂
janneman said:Question to you shielding experts:
I have access to stainless steel sheets of 2mm (0.079inch) and 3 mm thickness (0.12inch). How would that compare with aluminium as far as screening of an enclosure is concerned?
Jan Didden
It depends which alloy you got there. I made some shielding for inductors of ferritic stainless steel with great results, but austenitic stainless steel will offer little screening.
Magura 🙂
Hi, Jan,
Changed your avatar ? Where did you found a pic of the (very ?) first integrated circuit... Philbrick K2-W ?
Cheers !
Jbaudiophile
Changed your avatar ? Where did you found a pic of the (very ?) first integrated circuit... Philbrick K2-W ?
Cheers !
Jbaudiophile
Magura said:Back when I played around with these factors last time, I found that either 20mm of aluminum or 10mm of carbon brings you to the point of diminishing returns....And really, if you're willing to take on the trouble of making an 8mm thick box, you might as well go all the way and make it 20mm. It will not cost you much more and it will be the same amount of work.
Magura 🙂
I really do use aluminium boxes (15 pcs now) for shielding of opto-electronic fibre coupled transient recorder. The transmitter is battery supplied, inside aluminium box made of 8mm milled plates. Dimensions are about 40 x 35 x 15 cm. Parts with step-milled profile to assure electrical contact, screwed by 40 screws. The environment is high-power/high-voltage testing plant with both strong mag. field (100kA/50Hz) and fast transient el. field.
Thick aluminium works better than 3mm iron. Iron saturates and has unpredictable HF properties. Thick aluminium was even better than 3mm iron covered by anodized Cu film.
jbaudiophile said:Hi, Jan,
Changed your avatar ? Where did you found a pic of the (very ?) first integrated circuit... Philbrick K2-W ?
Cheers !
Jbaudiophile
I made the pic myself 😎 . I found the opamp, in original carton, as new. Paid 25 euro's ..
There's a larger pic and a circuit diagram on my website.
Jan Didden
My plan is to use prefabricated aluminium tubes or profiles. I found some tube with a diameter of 216 mm and a “wall” thickness of 8 mm. I would the close up the chassis with some 8 mm. aluminium sheets front and back. The price could be kept at around 300 USD for the tube and the two sheets.
I know the design would be more or less like a nuclear bomb … but this should be very effective!
I have a question concerning the use of Teflon sheets for the RCA jacks in the Blowtorch – I assume it’s Teflon sheet. Why not use copper sheet … or even a aluminium sheet.
Vogue
I know the design would be more or less like a nuclear bomb … but this should be very effective!
I have a question concerning the use of Teflon sheets for the RCA jacks in the Blowtorch – I assume it’s Teflon sheet. Why not use copper sheet … or even a aluminium sheet.
Vogue
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