Zung and T, could you read the speaker setup instructions that I posted from that setup guy? If you can't, I can put them in another form.
10k miles? Rock hard rubber. Friends of mine run these ACB10 sport | Avon Motorsport. Formula ford tyres. Lucky to get 2000 miles from a set on the road but stick like **** to a blanket.
Sadly can only be used on pre 1990 cars now. And of course your car must weigh less than 700kg with you in it.
Small size tire for small, light car. The CTS-V rim width is double what these are. The rear ZR1 rim is 12 inches wide. 10K miles regular street driving. Softer compound, race rubber, would last about 500 miles max. Either way.... expensive to replace every few months.
THx-RNMarsh'
4x$450/10,000=18c/mile......OUCH !.Small size tire for small, light car. The CTS-V rim width is double what these are. The rear ZR1 rim is 12 inches wide. 10K miles regular street driving.
Dan.
I live 3km or so from the local shopping centre.
I find an electric assisted mountain bike is ideal for quick zip to the supermarket to grab supplies.
Essentially zero 'fuel' cost, no tyre cost, easy parking right at the door.....and the wind in the face connection to the world and the fun cranking into corners.
Back in my racing days running singles (tubulars) I regularly had both tyres sliding under power on roundabouts......I wore them past halfway up to past halfway up and onto the cloth sidewalls 😱.
For commuting I reverted to the lightest I could find 'clincher' tyres with lightweight tubes.
My favourites were a Panaracer model with hard black rubber around the center and a softer grey compound on the sides.
These tyres were fast, but the fun part was when hard into corners and roundabouts....the softer compound gripped like hell but when pushed 'too far' the grey rubber beaded of, got a bit 'vague' and made a particular sound which gave audible warning when way past sensible limits lol.
This also made for 'safer' riding at the limits as the grey rubber gave tactile and audible warning and without the sudden loss of grip of other tyres when pushed too hard.
Tyre compounds matter, even on bicycles.
Dan.
I find an electric assisted mountain bike is ideal for quick zip to the supermarket to grab supplies.
Essentially zero 'fuel' cost, no tyre cost, easy parking right at the door.....and the wind in the face connection to the world and the fun cranking into corners.
Back in my racing days running singles (tubulars) I regularly had both tyres sliding under power on roundabouts......I wore them past halfway up to past halfway up and onto the cloth sidewalls 😱.
For commuting I reverted to the lightest I could find 'clincher' tyres with lightweight tubes.
My favourites were a Panaracer model with hard black rubber around the center and a softer grey compound on the sides.
These tyres were fast, but the fun part was when hard into corners and roundabouts....the softer compound gripped like hell but when pushed 'too far' the grey rubber beaded of, got a bit 'vague' and made a particular sound which gave audible warning when way past sensible limits lol.
This also made for 'safer' riding at the limits as the grey rubber gave tactile and audible warning and without the sudden loss of grip of other tyres when pushed too hard.
Tyre compounds matter, even on bicycles.
Dan.
In the last week, my tech and a higher up both hit an 800 dollar pothole.Inflation, harhar!
But prices are crazy. Last summer I realized my tires were worn excessively (when I was hydroplaning at 120Kmph) so bought 4 new Contis, cost me over a grand, would have been over $1300 for Michelins.
Apparently, you cannot replace one tire nowadays...
Jn
In the last week, my tech and a higher up both hit an 800 dollar pothole.
Apparently, you cannot replace one tire nowadays...
Jn
Yeah, unless the tires are brand new, it's safest to replace the entire axle. Then you have to question if you should replace all 4 if the rear especially is very worn, or if AWD and there is a large difference.
I tried. Found so many things let's say "strange" that i gave-it up.Zung and T, could you read the speaker setup instructions that I posted from that setup guy? If you can't, I can put them in another form.
Since I agree that, trying to compensate the acoustic defects of a room with equalizers do not give fantastic results in little rooms.
45 profile tyres are daft though. Can't tell if pressure is low,
Maybe you can't but i can. They are still inflated to 30psi, if they are down a couple of pounds you know it right away. Plus, TPMS so if I haven't been driving lately there is an idiot light in the dash.
Pshaw, if the vehicle is designed for high performance tires you will wreck the ride and handling with softer tires.wreck the ride
I'll give you that one, aluminum is heavier than air. A smaller wheel/tire (of any profile) would be lighter, and for a given overall tire diameter I'm sure there is an optimal profile to minimize unsprung mass, and sometimes it might even correspond with best performance.and tend to increase unsprung mass in road cars.
But buyers love those giant bling alloys. And tyre makers rack up the price. Compare 16" to 17" to 18" in the same width! worse than audio cables...
Why did you stop at 18? There are lots of cars that come equipped with bigger wheels than that, never mind trucks.
Cars have changed a lot since my dad drove an Alfa Romeo 1750 Berlina. That car was remarkable in its price class because it had things like 4 wheel disc brakes, but very ordinary cars have had those for years now. Would you even buy a car with drum brakes today? My car came with 18" rims and 45 profile tires, and it is a very good handling car, smooth on the highway and fun on a twisty road. There is nothing daft about it. Of course, for my winter tires I use (alloy) 17" rims and 55s for a little more "bite" in snow.
Yeah, unless the tires are brand new, it's safest to replace the entire axle. Then you have to question if you should replace all 4 if the rear especially is very worn, or if AWD and there is a large difference.
Oh, that is odd. For some reason, I was thinking that you had to replace both on the same side.. I was thinking along the lines of rotating radials front to back but not left to right. I will have to ask my tech tomorrow.
Jn
Oh, that is odd. For some reason, I was thinking that you had to replace both on the same side.. I was thinking along the lines of rotating radials front to back but not left to right. I will have to ask my tech tomorrow.
Jn
That only works in NASCAR where they only turn left. 😉
JN,
On my automobiles with front wheel drive, the rear pair typically last twice as long as the front tires. So changing sets by side would be a vary bad idea.
When steel belted radials first came out, the tires on the front would loosen up their side stability a bit. Rotating front to back could cause the tires to misbehave on high stress turns, leading to lose of control.
I do not rotate tires, as this confuses tread readings. Uneven wear results from under or over inflation. The front pair and rear pair often do not wear evenly with the same tire pressure.
Normally misalignment only affects the front pair. If it shows up on the rear pair, you really have a problem.
On my automobiles with front wheel drive, the rear pair typically last twice as long as the front tires. So changing sets by side would be a vary bad idea.
When steel belted radials first came out, the tires on the front would loosen up their side stability a bit. Rotating front to back could cause the tires to misbehave on high stress turns, leading to lose of control.
I do not rotate tires, as this confuses tread readings. Uneven wear results from under or over inflation. The front pair and rear pair often do not wear evenly with the same tire pressure.
Normally misalignment only affects the front pair. If it shows up on the rear pair, you really have a problem.
I had changed the front tires of my car, while the rear ones were good, but old (dry).Yeah, unless the tires are brand new, it's safest to replace the entire axle. Then you have to question if you should replace all 4 if the rear especially is very worn, or if AWD and there is a large difference.
My car has become very dangerous. It reacted to the steering wheel with delay, then the rear had a tendency to unhook suddenly. Under-steer then oversteer, Dangerous and unpleasant. I put new tires in the back and everything came back to normal.
I had changed the front tires of my car, while the rear ones were good, but old (dry).
My car has become very dangerous. It reacted to the steering wheel with delay, then the rear had a tendency to unhook suddenly. Under-steer then oversteer, Dangerous and unpleasant. I put new tires in the back and everything came back to normal.
Exactly! A lot of people with FWD think that they should have the best tires in front, but then you are prone to oversteer, which is much more dangerous for most people.
Tourny,
If your tires are dry rotting, first I would change suppliers, then it would seem you aren't driving enough!
As just mentioned, rotating front to back with some tires will give you those performance isdues.
Finally, just how fast do you drive?
On second thought, if your tire supplier sent you out with mismatched tires, you really need to find a new supplier.
If your tires are dry rotting, first I would change suppliers, then it would seem you aren't driving enough!
As just mentioned, rotating front to back with some tires will give you those performance isdues.
Finally, just how fast do you drive?
On second thought, if your tire supplier sent you out with mismatched tires, you really need to find a new supplier.
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Oh, that is odd. For some reason, I was thinking that you had to replace both on the same side.. I was thinking along the lines of rotating radials front to back but not left to right. I will have to ask my tech tomorrow.
Jn
On some cars you can only rotate front to back if the tread is directional, so no left/right rotation (typically the tire will have an arrow on the sidewall).
If you're really unlucky and have directional tires with staggered F/R sizes as well you might not be able to rotate them at all. Mostly seen on RWD cars.
Funny story, I had a co-worker that lost both tires on the passenger's side of the car. He had Continental summer tires on the car. The shop ordered the all season version and replaced them only on the passenger side. He drives away and notices the car starts to pull left under hard braking and acceleration and the shop accused him of being picky. They finally agreed it was possibly dangerous to mix tires on the same axle and replaced them.
I had changed the front tires of my car, while the rear ones were good, but old (dry).
I ran a set of Michelin's until the steel belts were exposed and started to rust and never noticed any major handling problems.
I ran a set of Michelin's until the steel belts were exposed and started to rust and never noticed any major handling problems.
Now that is impressive!
This morning I picked up a drywall screw in my right rear tire. I went to the closest tire shop using google. Walking in I was pleasantly surprised to see the counter fellow's first step was to inspect the tire to be sure it had not run flat and damaged the side wall. Of course it hadn't as if the tire began to loose air I would have changed to the spare, even driving under a mile to the shop.
Only downside is they are not big on stock and have to be forewarned to do changes with the quality of tires I prefer.
My suspicion is my life is worth more than the price difference between the best and any other quality tire divided by the probability of needing the performance difference to avoid another fatal accident. (Last time the other guy, who was at fault!)
I also suspect I have driven more miles than most here.
Only downside is they are not big on stock and have to be forewarned to do changes with the quality of tires I prefer.
My suspicion is my life is worth more than the price difference between the best and any other quality tire divided by the probability of needing the performance difference to avoid another fatal accident. (Last time the other guy, who was at fault!)
I also suspect I have driven more miles than most here.
This morning I picked up a drywall screw in my right rear tire. I went to the closest tire shop using google. Walking in I was pleasantly surprised to see the counter fellow's first step was to inspect the tire to be sure it had not run flat and damaged the side wall. Of course it hadn't as if the tire began to loose air I would have changed to the spare, even driving under a mile to the shop.
Only downside is they are not big on stock and have to be forewarned to do changes with the quality of tires I prefer.
My suspicion is my life is worth more than the price difference between the best and any other quality tire divided by the probability of needing the performance difference to avoid another fatal accident. (Last time the other guy, who was at fault!)
I also suspect I have driven more miles than most here.
I'm with you. They are the only part of your car that actually touches the road. There are a few Chinese off-brands that are getting popular now. I'll pass on those...
Unlike all of you wannabes when it comes to car technology and repair, I can repair every single thing that can go wrong and be repaired on any car I own..
The sequence is this..
1. Ring ring.
2. Hello?
3. Hi John, your car is fixed, we need a credit card.
4. Ok, number is #####.
5. Done, pick it up.
See...simple. I can repair anything..😀
And performance, don't get me started..
0 to 35, about 1.5 seconds. 35 to 40, another 30 seconds...
Subaru does some really weird things with the cvt profile.
To me, it's just a car. My priorities are different. I miss my minivan...😱
Last one could carry 4 by 8 Sheetrock with the hatch closed. Seats in floor of course. Loved those the most.
Edit. Stow and go, forgot the name.
Carried an entire bathroom, floor tile, tub, toilet, pedestal sink, mortar. Can't beat that..
Jn
The sequence is this..
1. Ring ring.
2. Hello?
3. Hi John, your car is fixed, we need a credit card.
4. Ok, number is #####.
5. Done, pick it up.
See...simple. I can repair anything..😀
And performance, don't get me started..
0 to 35, about 1.5 seconds. 35 to 40, another 30 seconds...
Subaru does some really weird things with the cvt profile.
To me, it's just a car. My priorities are different. I miss my minivan...😱
Last one could carry 4 by 8 Sheetrock with the hatch closed. Seats in floor of course. Loved those the most.
Edit. Stow and go, forgot the name.
Carried an entire bathroom, floor tile, tub, toilet, pedestal sink, mortar. Can't beat that..
Jn
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