Zung;57e47781 said:That got me curious, so I looked up Walmart's prices: my 225/45/17's are about $100 a piece in Europe, and nearly $200 in the US! Here, all the premium brands like Conti/Dunlop/Michelin cost nearly the same, give or take 10%.
You guys buy gas and oil at half price compared to us, but pay double for the tyres. Justice! 🙂
Keep in mind the Canadian dollar seems to be on a descent to US$0.65 for no discernible reason. Also my tires are 235/45-18. Ironically the Michelins are made about 100Km from here but cost $$$.
Last few days and not sure how I have been listening to a number of classical recordings done by the same team. Sometimes with a recording it will just sound 'right' and then I go and beaver off to find out more. These ones had more spot mikes than the purist in me might like but the dynamics were all in tact and 'natural'. Ran it through the Foobar DR calculator and got a DR of 16 back, with and RMS level of -23dB. Basically as they intended back in the early days of CD. I am starting to wonder if the dynamics doesn't matter to me more than the imaging. And one of these is the premiere recording so I can still play the 'music first' card 😛.
Over on vinylengine over the weekend someone was bitching about one of the Santana LPs being 'compressed in mastering'. The guy who mastered it put him right.
The other classical stuff that is well recorderred is Yo-Yo Ma. I have a CD/DVD combo of his with Christmas songs that is stunning in terms of imaging and dynamics.
45 profile tyres are daft though. Can't tell if pressure is low, wreck the ride and tend to increase unsprung mass in road cars. But buyers love those giant bling alloys. And tyre makers rack up the price. Compare 16" to 17" to 18" in the same width! worse than audio cables...
... Michelin's top offering is the best tire in almost every category at the moment except for competition-only tires.
Yeah, the Michelin Premacy 4 Highway (Summer) is what I have in mind for the next round, but my Conti's are still good for a season or 2. Previously, I used Dunlop Winter Contact and can't really complain.
Yes, tires are designed first using simulation, and then every single parameter of their performance can be measured. There is no need for an "open mind" because the difference in tires can be demonstrated by the data and laptimes. That's why it is a flawed analogy. There is no one claiming that there are unmeasurable or unexplainable differences between tires that matter to the drivers.
That's about true if you look at the tires only, with some possible exceptions with regards to the wear pattern and the temperature dependency.
But no: if you looked at the race, about halfway into it, Hamilton changed into the soft tires. Being the only guy in town with this, he though he would be unbeatable. But it turned out he was actually slower! Why? There're a thousand top guys (ME's & EE's) at MB currently scratching their heads to try to figure it out. For me, that's the top-level physics, with lots of unknown and lots of interaction with other constituents, the driver included.
45 profile tyres are daft though. Can't tell if pressure is low, wreck the ride and tend to increase unsprung mass in road cars. But buyers love those giant bling alloys. And tyre makers rack up the price. Compare 16" to 17" to 18" in the same width! worse than audio cables...
45 is even pretty high these days! I think that's stock for a number of "normal" cars.
Most sports sedans / performance cars are running 40 or 35. The BMW M3/M4 and Alfa Giulia QF (rear) run 30 profile and Corvette Z06 has an option for 25!
I'm not sure there is too much downside other than cost and being more prone to damage, though, if the overall diameter is the same. Steering feel and response does improve because of less flex in the sidewall. One would assume those cars have suspensions designed for the increased feedback.
I do think it's stupid to go low profile if your car didn't come that way from the factory.
Yeah, the Michelin Premacy 4 Highway (Summer) is what I have in mind for the next round, but my Conti's are still good for a season or 2. Previously, I used Dunlop Winter Contact and can't really complain.
That's about true if you look at the tires only, with some possible exceptions with regards to the wear pattern and the temperature dependency.
But no: if you looked at the race, about halfway into it, Hamilton changed into the soft tires. Being the only guy in town with this, he though he would be unbeatable. But it turned out he was actually slower! Why? There're a thousand top guys (ME's & EE's) at MB currently scratching their heads to try to figure it out. For me, that's the top-level physics, with lots of unknown and lots of interaction with other constituents, the driver included.
They have the data though, so they can probably put together a hypothesis before Shanghai.
Else be sent to the country side and tend the sheeps 🙂
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...ll=Blackwall&partnum=23YR1PSC2RXLN0&tab=Sizes
I think that's the most expensive street legal tire you can get now. I guess if you can afford a GT2 or GT3 RS you probably don't flinch at $1000 tires.
45 is even pretty high these days! I think that's stock for a number of "normal" cars...
Exactly! It's a MB C250 CDI 4matic purposely designed for senior citizens like me. 🙂
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...ll=Blackwall&partnum=23YR1PSC2RXLN0&tab=Sizes
I think that's the most expensive street legal tire you can get now. I guess if you can afford a GT2 or GT3 RS you probably don't flinch at $1000 tires.
Wow!
Maybe I'll wait until they're on sale. 🙂
I have never liked the feedback from Michelin. Love contis but even in a diesel station wagon eat a set in 15k miles so I still with goodyear. This time gone all safe dad and put 4 seasons on. Don't need full winters although the hoonability on cold damp roads is great fun.Yeah, the Michelin Premacy 4 Highway (Summer) is what I have in mind for the next round, but my Conti's are still good for a season or 2. Previously, I used Dunlop Winter Contact and can't really complain.
My cars are generally 8-10 years old when I get them. I then destroy them over another 8-10 years. I like 55-60 profile tyres as low profile alloys get wrecked over 200k miles carting family and stuff around.45 is even pretty high these days! I think that's stock for a number of "normal" cars.
Most sports sedans / performance cars are running 40 or 35. The BMW M3/M4 and Alfa Giulia QF (rear) run 30 profile and Corvette Z06 has an option for 25!
I'm not sure there is too much downside other than cost and being more prone to damage, though, if the overall diameter is the same. Steering feel and response does improve because of less flex in the sidewall. One would assume those cars have suspensions designed for the increased feedback.
For a track car with split rims going big does reduce weight. Road car alloys are heavy, heavier than the tyre so you loose. I also don't care much for the general steering feel of most modern over assisted cars. But I'm odd and pine for my Caterham which had 13" wheels, 3/4 turn quick rack and no power assistance. THAT had steering feel.
I do think it's stupid to go low profile if your car didn't come that way from the factory.[/QUOTE]
Expensive tires are OK, but expensive cables are not? '-)
Expensive tires will stop me several feet shorter from 60 MPH, possibly avoiding an expensive collision. Or maybe keep me on the road during an emergency maneuver because of the increased lateral grip.
Expensive cables will just drain my wallet.
Comparing tires to cables is pretty crazy. Helen Keller could probably successfully ABX an all season tire and a high performance summer tire.
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[/QUOTE]I have never liked the feedback from Michelin. Love contis but even in a diesel station wagon eat a set in 15k miles so I still with goodyear. This time gone all safe dad and put 4 seasons on. Don't need full winters although the hoonability on cold damp roads is great fun.
My cars are generally 8-10 years old when I get them. I then destroy them over another 8-10 years. I like 55-60 profile tyres as low profile alloys get wrecked over 200k miles carting family and stuff around.
For a track car with split rims going big does reduce weight. Road car alloys are heavy, heavier than the tyre so you loose. I also don't care much for the general steering feel of most modern over assisted cars. But I'm odd and pine for my Caterham which had 13" wheels, 3/4 turn quick rack and no power assistance. THAT had steering feel.
I do think it's stupid to go low profile if your car didn't come that way from the factory.
The real gripe I have is with the new trend toward runflat tires and ditching the spare.
It sounds fine in theory but the RFTs weigh a lot more and the support structure transmits a lot more noise and harshness to the cabin. They also appear to be much more easily damaged. Very easy to get sidewall bubbles in them from bumps and potholes that wouldn't bother a regular tire.
There was (is?) a class action against Bridgestone for the first gen runflat tires because they failed so often.
I refuse to buy a car not fitted with a spare or having the option of retro-fitting one."The real gripe I have is with . . . ditching the spare."
- More than half (55%) of Britain's new cars have a puncture repair kit rather than a spare wheel
- Another 7% of new cars have run-flat tyres
I refuse to buy a car not fitted with a spare or having the option of retro-fitting one.
Just 38% of Britain's new cars come with a spare wheel | This is Money
- More than half (55%) of Britain's new cars have a puncture repair kit rather than a spare wheel
- Another 7% of new cars have run-flat tyres
Saves weight so they can score better on the emissions and fuel economy tests 🙁.
The real high perf tires used on High-Performance cars are basically race tires with a few grooves in it for street legal use. They are pretty techy things with several different compounds across the tire surface. They stick like glue on the track or street but wear out fast. The tires on 2 Z06 and a ZR1 Corvette and Cadillac CTS-V all are shot by 10-12k miles. Replacement cost are $450 USD Each. They are worth the money IMO IF you value the performance aspect gained with them.
You cant really replace the tires with hard compound, either. Not that you would want to loose performance. But with the high HP and TRQ, would blow them off in every gear. Dangerous.
On the ZR1, I can hit 100Km/hr in first gear..... swinging onto the highway from an on-ramp, and swing into the fast lane in second and then shift to third and lean on the gas peddle..... with steam rollar size sticky tires .... the rear tires break traction and does a little fish-tailing briefly. Dangerous.
🙂
THx-RNMarsh
You cant really replace the tires with hard compound, either. Not that you would want to loose performance. But with the high HP and TRQ, would blow them off in every gear. Dangerous.
On the ZR1, I can hit 100Km/hr in first gear..... swinging onto the highway from an on-ramp, and swing into the fast lane in second and then shift to third and lean on the gas peddle..... with steam rollar size sticky tires .... the rear tires break traction and does a little fish-tailing briefly. Dangerous.
🙂
THx-RNMarsh
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10k miles? Rock hard rubber. Friends of mine run these ACB10 sport | Avon Motorsport. Formula ford tyres. Lucky to get 2000 miles from a set on the road but stick like **** to a blanket.
Sadly can only be used on pre 1990 cars now. And of course your car must weigh less than 700kg with you in it.
Sadly can only be used on pre 1990 cars now. And of course your car must weigh less than 700kg with you in it.
10k miles? Rock hard rubber. Friends of mine run these ACB10 sport | Avon Motorsport. Formula ford tyres. Lucky to get 2000 miles from a set on the road but stick like **** to a blanket.
Sadly can only be used on pre 1990 cars now. And of course your car must weigh less than 700kg with you in it.
Nice and grippy I am sure. There are Hoosiers and similar slicks available now for heavier cars, but still not street legal.
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