Zung,
First oil change should be 1/2 what you are currently using and the rest the new oil. 0W-30W should give you the best milage. But you have to check the consumption and if it exceeds a quart between oil changes then go up to the 0W-40W. If it still burns oil then 5W-40W.
Other thing to note is your milage at each fill up. If it drops from a fresh oil change to 10-15% less for two or three changes it is past time to change the oil.
The advantage to using a "Synthetic" oil is longer useful life before the need to change the oil in addition to better milage. The downside is it takes longer for the engine to get warm enought to provide cabin heat.
The Mobile 1 ESP is probably on the manufacturers recommended list.
Now I once actually had a sample of a true synthetic oil that was not hydrocarbon based. It was designed for food processing equipment. It would not support any bacteria growth and could withstand steam cleaning. The synthetic oil compared to normal stuff in that application did work better, however as a lubricant reducing friction and wear, it was a poor performer.
Chris,
Looking at what I first wrote and your response surprised me. I gather you don't like Mobil products. One of my mentors on lubricating products worked for Lubrizol. I have run the same model engine on standard rated oil and the next on a "synthetic", the difference at end of life was dramatic. At two times the milage almost no signs of wear or even lifter crud. (Yes I was curious so I did a bit of tear down. At 250,000 miles there is no trade in value.)
Something as simple as my turret press uses at least six different lubricants. Some such as cutting oil can have differences show up in minutes.
Bill,
As the distances I drive are a bit longer than yours I have gone through ten cars. At first a car was pretty much worn out at 80,000 miles. Things apparently have improved a bit for me as one friend who drove much more than me swore by a specific brand, so I tried one. Second one did over 250,000 miles. So I stuck to the brand. Last retired one made about 3,000 miles before a bit of head on bother. Otherwise I expect around 200,000 miles of pretty much only brake and tire changes. 250,000 is probably pushing things.
One interesting change is the dramatic increase in milage between things like oil and radiator coolant changes. Cleaverist improvement is to the windshield wipper solvent capacity! It now takes a full gallon, so no more saving partially full bottles.
First oil change should be 1/2 what you are currently using and the rest the new oil. 0W-30W should give you the best milage. But you have to check the consumption and if it exceeds a quart between oil changes then go up to the 0W-40W. If it still burns oil then 5W-40W.
Other thing to note is your milage at each fill up. If it drops from a fresh oil change to 10-15% less for two or three changes it is past time to change the oil.
The advantage to using a "Synthetic" oil is longer useful life before the need to change the oil in addition to better milage. The downside is it takes longer for the engine to get warm enought to provide cabin heat.
The Mobile 1 ESP is probably on the manufacturers recommended list.
Now I once actually had a sample of a true synthetic oil that was not hydrocarbon based. It was designed for food processing equipment. It would not support any bacteria growth and could withstand steam cleaning. The synthetic oil compared to normal stuff in that application did work better, however as a lubricant reducing friction and wear, it was a poor performer.
Chris,
Looking at what I first wrote and your response surprised me. I gather you don't like Mobil products. One of my mentors on lubricating products worked for Lubrizol. I have run the same model engine on standard rated oil and the next on a "synthetic", the difference at end of life was dramatic. At two times the milage almost no signs of wear or even lifter crud. (Yes I was curious so I did a bit of tear down. At 250,000 miles there is no trade in value.)
Something as simple as my turret press uses at least six different lubricants. Some such as cutting oil can have differences show up in minutes.
Bill,
As the distances I drive are a bit longer than yours I have gone through ten cars. At first a car was pretty much worn out at 80,000 miles. Things apparently have improved a bit for me as one friend who drove much more than me swore by a specific brand, so I tried one. Second one did over 250,000 miles. So I stuck to the brand. Last retired one made about 3,000 miles before a bit of head on bother. Otherwise I expect around 200,000 miles of pretty much only brake and tire changes. 250,000 is probably pushing things.
One interesting change is the dramatic increase in milage between things like oil and radiator coolant changes. Cleaverist improvement is to the windshield wipper solvent capacity! It now takes a full gallon, so no more saving partially full bottles.
Last edited:
Thanks. I'll look into the market price over here.
...I'm not as familiar with diesels, we don't get nearly as many in the US and I try to avoid them myself.
Yeah, the VW scandal. But then again, over here, unleaded is US$6 a gallon, so the Diesel engines, with their higher mpg, still have some excuses.
I have nothing against Mobil products. I use Mobil 1 0W-20 most of the time. It's just not always the best. It's also just a brand.
The 5W-20 is completely different than the 0W-40 Euro formulation, for example. The 0W-40 is highly regarded and used to be made from almost all Group IV PAO base stock, while the 5W-20 was nothing special.
Used oil analyses on various sites show that every major brand has similar products these days. I just meant to point out that it's not some magic bullet or perfect oil that guarantees you to make 250k miles without wear. I'd say that depends a lot more on the engine design than the oil you put in it.
Last edited:
Thanks Simon, it is indeed; it's the Mobile brand that doesn't sound familiar over here. I'll look into this.
Ed: Yes you do do bigger mileages. I remember road tripping in USA where 500-700 miles a day was no biggy. But I'm happy to have halved my annual mileage since the oldest 3 learned to drive .
Back on track, tonight I am developing a minor dislike for pheonix connectors as I need to rethink a cable so I can actually fit it unless I can find some crimp pins in the shed.
Balanced good, Phoenix bad
. Back on track, tonight I am developing a minor dislike for pheonix connectors as I need to rethink a cable so I can actually fit it unless I can find some crimp pins in the shed.
Balanced good, Phoenix bad
Apparently you took the fun out of argueing. We seem to have similar experiences. Changing car brands had an improvement in lifetime and using a beter oil in the same engine design also improved service life.
Now at first I mentioned Mobil 1 types of oils as to my knowledge they were the first to mass market that type of oil.
While all major brands give similar results from similar products, there are cheaper and lower quality products. There is a local company that processes used automotive oil and then resells it as a low cost automotive oil. I suspect you won't get any engine to 250,000 miles with their products.
Ed: Yes you do do bigger mileages. I remember road tripping in USA where 500-700 miles a day was no biggy. But I'm happy to have halved my annual mileage since the oldest 3 learned to drive
Gee Bill, I thought our miles were the same length, just that your roads were shorter. Wonder if either will change under Brexit? From what I read over the net, I get the impression some think even that will change.
With respect to my car, I go in, they change it, I pay and drive off. Synthetic...7000 miles, regular..3000.
Cars...10..15, 20 years max. In my clock work, regular oils..5 maybe 10 years max. Major gum up, thicken, oxidize. Basically, stop the clock. Synthetics, the claim is that they don't oxidize up. Give me 20 years, I'll get back to you.
Jn
I understand my youngest daughter went to a summer camp where we had to buy a full dressage tack for her.
Hold on...wait a cottonpickinminute!!!
By mr moly, can I assume you mean mds???
I had a friend who promised me some tungsten disulfide, fell through..
I've been thinking of doing a clock with moly disulfide but never got around to it. That stuff is so messy...
Jn
I'd greatly appreciate your comments about a different solution: I've found that connecting the CATV's shield to safety ground at the local AC power distribution "strip" (while maintaining its earth ground per code to the power entrance to the building) makes a small enough local ground loop to remove any noise issues. Bird on a wire as Leonard Cohen put it.
My question could be framed "is there any advantage to Galvanic (what a wonderful old name) isolation in this case?
All good fortune,
Chris
It depends on so many factors that it seems to me there is no answer to this question other than "Try all solutions you can imagine".
In my experience a quart of milk leaked into the carpet is worse.
Moly is for life not just for xmas. I use it on my bicycle bearings because I happen to have a tub of moly grease from when I mistakenly once thought a CV joint looked easy to fix. I really ought to get grease nipples tapped into my winter bike hubs.
... And a new car every 4 years.
The good old days of all expenses paid company car are gone, as far as I'm concerned.
I remember, molybdenum disulfide was expelled from being used in aviation lubrication grease due to hydrophilic action. Water entrapment led to localized crevice corrosion, leading to deep pitting
There must be some 20 years since then, I found a discarded moly**** black grease paste in my moto tool box lately.
Crevice corrosion [SubsTech]
George
There must be some 20 years since then, I found a discarded moly**** black grease paste in my moto tool box lately.
Crevice corrosion [SubsTech]
George
- Status
- Not open for further replies.