JL Audio Mainboard Layout?

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maaaaan i've been looking for a good two hours and finally made my stop ehre at diyaudio..... been looking for the JL audio mainboard layout so i know which does what and what to look for when **** gets broken....

specifically the 1000/1 :bigeyes:

a lot of people say they're not an easy amp to work on, my father owns a repair shop and he can't figure out many problems as well, if someone could help a brother out it would be appreciated :D

(i personally didn't care until i finally blew my jl 1000/1, i almost cried :bawling:)
thanks for your inquiry, i will let you know this friday :mad: i'm hoping nothing else is broken besides the outputs, my father owns a repair shop and he says they are hard as **** to figure out what's broken... i dont know a damn thing about amplifier repair (although one day i'd like to learn) but if it's any consolation, the amplifier had a burnt smell, and the amp would not power on at all after i turned down the music and put it at regular volume
hahaha i'm down to learn, just no time.... full time college student, if i'm not doing that, i'm at home fixing/modifying/tuning my turbocharged miata

i found the culprit, the smokey smell was the box, have no idea why it smelled burnt but it did, and it turns out the FUSE i had was burnt.... it did not burn in the middle, but at one of the tip's ends.... it was one of those tube'ed fuses
Guess the Miata is not a stock turbo ? ;) How much gain do you get from the turbo ?

Good amplifiers sometimes fry the fuse without burning inside . My Hifonics Zeus (Gen X) used to :hot: the 60A Fuse occasionally driving the 2 15" with "Run DMC" so I inserted an 80A (after reading the manual I found out I was allowed to do so) .

But you should doublecheck your box , if there is a bad smell the voice coil of the speaker might be fried , over the long run it could get worse and really damage your amplifier.
thanks for the help... i'm running a custom T25 setup on the miata at 10lbs untuned at the momment, just have the FPR upp'ed to i believe 45-55PSI so it runs rich over the whole map

my voice coil isn't burnt, i looked, it was the weaksauce wire lol.... it melted i guess, because it got hot =/ i doubled the wire strength so it won't be doing that anymore, currently running a MTX 15in RFL and the 1000/1, i also talked to a alternator specialist to modify mine's... he has to drop in a brand new one, off of another car and customize a bracket for it, gonna be 270amps so i could slap in another 1000/1 if need be, gonna cost me around 700$ for everything though :bawling:
Some images if anyone was interested :rolleyes:

(old engine bay picture, i have FPR and many other goodies under there now)
(new wheels i just slapped on a while back)
The T25 could easily be too small for a 1.6L (depending on HP, the T25 is only good for about 200). A rising rate fuel pressure regulator will allow more fuel at high psi and still have correct AF ratios. As you likely know running rich will eat HP and lean will eat motors.

Also you can do what you want but I would recommend blocking off the internal waste gate and get a better than stock garret gate to avoid boost creep and please get an air filter if you haven’t.

Clean looking install....all you need is a cage, some fire bottles and you almost ready to take it to the track.

Good luck.

Thanks for the thumbs up :) 16g coming soon (all i need to do is meet the kid up). you're right about the rising rate FPR, but i have a megasquirt DIY ECU installed... just need someone to help me get use to the programming and help me tune it (hopefully this friday so i dont have to put up with the insanely rich startup). i'm thinking about making custom piping for intake plumbing, will be done soon (i dont drive it daily so it's okay)
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