I don't know anything about this amp and some JL amps have different turn-on and turn-off resistors so you'll have to look at the circuit to see what you have.
The Z version of the 3710 is typically better for switching but the non-Z may work.
From looking at the specs, the original is going to be easier to drive. That would mean that you would need to use a lower value gate resistor.
The Z version of the 3710 is typically better for switching but the non-Z may work.
From looking at the specs, the original is going to be easier to drive. That would mean that you would need to use a lower value gate resistor.
The 540s will be marginal.
If you have IRF3415s, that may be an option. The Z-version of the 3710 may be the best option.
If you have IRF3415s, that may be an option. The Z-version of the 3710 may be the best option.
They are about as likely to work as the 3710Z. If you have to order them, I'd suggest ordering the 3710Z as well in case they don't work.
FETs are cheap. Order both. Before ordering, tell the owner that the original FETs are obsolete and you'll have to try multiple replacements to find a suitable sub. If they won't pay the additional cost, reassemble it and return it to them.
Going to trial the NTP6412ANG first, do you suggest going to 22 ohm gate resisitors, or stay with the 47s?
What is the rest of the drive circuit?
What driver IC?
Is there only the single gate resistor (not a parallel diode/resistor)?
What driver IC?
Is there only the single gate resistor (not a parallel diode/resistor)?
The 500/1 has the parallel diode/resistor for pulldown. The 4427 is only for the low side.
If the drive circuit is the same, I don't think you need to change the gate resistors but I've never tried this substitute so that's not definitive.
If the drive circuit is the same, I don't think you need to change the gate resistors but I've never tried this substitute so that's not definitive.