Hello just got this next nightmare from Jl audio .The last month i probably bough and sold over 1o of those amps and the only reason i buy them is couse they sell good and u can actually make a profit and not work for free.So i got this amp with all bad ps irfz44n .I change them all and instaled all new gate resistors 47ohms.Now when power is applied the amp comes on for 3-4 sec and i hear click inside and will power off then on aggain and aggain.Just removed the output transistors and without them the amp stays on .I even swaped the output transistors with one form known good amp and the same story just the amp stays longer on 10sec.without the output transistors i mesured the voltage at the conector by the power terminals
and im seeing a slight diference compared to known good amp
pin 1 -5.5v known good showd 0.00v
pin 2- -16.4v
pin 3- 15.3
pin 4- 6 v
pin 5- 14.5
pin 6- 14.7
pin 7- 0.00v
pin 8- 14.4
pin 9- 14.5
pin 10- 0.00v
Please if u have any guess what might be the ishue i will try everything
and im seeing a slight diference compared to known good amp
pin 1 -5.5v known good showd 0.00v
pin 2- -16.4v
pin 3- 15.3
pin 4- 6 v
pin 5- 14.5
pin 6- 14.7
pin 7- 0.00v
pin 8- 14.4
pin 9- 14.5
pin 10- 0.00v
Please if u have any guess what might be the ishue i will try everything
Please post a photo of the inside of the amp. I've never worked on a v2 (as far as I can remember) so I need to see what you have.
I'm not sure what the voltages on this amp should be. The information I have is from a v1, rev10.
In the future, use a ':' instead of a '-' as a separator. It's less confusing.
I'm not sure what the voltages on this amp should be. The information I have is from a v1, rev10.
In the future, use a ':' instead of a '-' as a separator. It's less confusing.
main board is rev.11 .sorry for the separator .took few pictures.One more question for u.I have 2 other models jl audio 300/4 and 500/5 and both have some kinna water damage and i was wondering should i even bother to look on them.there are many shorted ic chips and the same with the driver boards
As far as I know (correct me if you find that I'm wrong), the only way to get new replacement parts is to pay JL to repair it. If you don't want to do that, you'll have to get one from a donor/junk amp. It may be possible to make a new one but that's likely more trouble than it's worth.
this guys at Jl audio wont sell u even a resistor if u need it.they are asking 180 flat rate for the repair of any amp .I paid 60 bucks for this amp so i will have to buy one more just for that inductor.back home i could have that one redone for few bucks but here .....Nowadays electronics is so disposible
It's going to be difficult to lay down the windings as tightly as the original windings. If you attempt it, wind them tightly and make each layer as flat as possible. Unless you have wire on hand, you'll need to measure the wire with a dial (or digital) caliper to determine the gauge. Measure where there is no epoxy and, if possible, where the insulation has been burned off. The wire is sold in 1/2 gauge sizes so the measurement is critical.
For reference, I've measured several of the inductors and they were ~50uH.
For reference, I've measured several of the inductors and they were ~50uH.
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