Hello, first of all please forgive my inexperience. I have the mentioned amp and have a few questions. I'm wondering if any experienced users can tell me if its worth repairing. It currently works if its on regular 12~ volt power. But with the car on and seeing around 14.5 volts it acts really funny. Half the time it works. And half the time it doesn't. When its not working and I have the vehicle on, it plays sound. But it sounds really bad and very very low volume. After about 10 to 15 minutes, it fixes it self. I can hear it trying to fix itself each time the separate subwoofer I have hits. Like the voltage drop caused from the other amp makes it start working. The thermal light also stays on all the time, both when it works and when it doesn't. I wouldn't say that, when it works, it plays close to 80 or 90 percent good in terms of sound quality. But with the car off it sounds to play better if not pretty close to 100 percent. I have been reading a lot about repairs and, if this is worth repairing, I will go out and buy the tools and materials to do so and make it my very first project. Just wondering if it is worth it and if it is, is it something I could tackle as a first project. It is currently powering a pair of component speakers, but a pg xenon 100.2 is replacing it today, which will make ot project material and not "daily driver". I currently dont have a multimeter but will get one soon and post anything anyone needs. Thank you very much, and once again sorry for my inexperience. I forgot to mention, amplifier makes a weird humming noise and the gain knob doesn't seem to be doing much, or working consistently, that is the volume doesn't change much when messing with gain..
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If the amp works properly 100% of the time with the engine off, the amp may be working normally. The owner's manual the amp is designed to operate between 11 and 14.5v. It could be that the internal over-voltage circuit is engaging as it should.
Thanks for the reply perry, that never crossed my mind although I read here before that jl audio amps are finicky when it comes to voltage. Do you have any suggestions to bypassing that? Or somehow giving that single amp less voltage? I don't want to cut the voltage across the board since I have a DC engineering 270 amp alternator I don't want to hinder its power.. I know that you can put a diode in line with the alternator volt sensor wire and raise the voltage a bit, maybe the same concept could be applied but to the jl audio amp by itself? Also, a switxh on the jl audio amp is broken. Will replacing it be as easy as desoldering the old switch and soldering a new one it? Thanks for the help!
What are you using that needs 14.5v?
Does the alternator have an adjustable regulator?
What sort of complications are you expecting replacing the switch?
As far as I know, JL won't sell parts (email them to see if that policy has changed) so you'll either have to find a donor amp or a generic replacement.
When you email JL, ask them if the amp should cut off at 14.5.
Does the alternator have an adjustable regulator?
What sort of complications are you expecting replacing the switch?
As far as I know, JL won't sell parts (email them to see if that policy has changed) so you'll either have to find a donor amp or a generic replacement.
When you email JL, ask them if the amp should cut off at 14.5.
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I don't have a voltage regulator. I should probably get one and tone it down a bit just for the jl amp. I always thought that the higher the voltage, while staying in reasonable range, the better and more power. I will try to find a generic switch for it. I was just wondering if there was any other steps to be taken other than physically replacing the switch. Its a three stage switch. That's is, its got three options, direct, low pass and high pass.
I always that that 14.5 was optimum, for the most power. I don't have a voltage regulator but the one from DC engineering is over 100 dollars. So a brand new amp that's not a jl audio, thats less than 200 might be a better choice. I was just wondering if the only step is physically replacing the switch. Its a three stage switch, that is its got three positions, direct, lpf and hpf. I will try to find a generic switch.
Hi dvaldes'
My suv is set up much the same way as your vehical; jl audio amps and a "Powers 270-XP". As far as you not having a voltage regulator I find to be highly unlikely. Most DC eng'r alternators are "stand-alone" or have internal regulators, which I suspect of yours. If it didn't, your electrical system would fry, including all lighting, and the ecm (computer), which manages the fuel system, ignition, throttle body resp, emissions, security, valve timing, etc...
So trying to decide whether to buy a voltage regulator or a brand new (non jl) amp isn't optional. Question: if you don't own a multi-meter, how do you know what the voltage is with the car running/off? The DC Powers alternator has it's voltage reg (Denso) preset for 13.8 to 14.4, which is fine. The jl line of amps are more than capable of handling 15vdc (w/protect warning) on short duration, and 14.5v indefinitely.
Once you've gotten your multi-meter you can begin taking some status info and reading the battery (static), charging system operating range, amplifier's amp draw 'under various conditions', etc. The three position switch you mentioned is an "ON/OFF/ON" selector switch used to set the cross-over network mode: High-pass, off, and low-pass and can likely be purchased from amazon.com, parts express, Radio shack, and a host of other direct distributors for literally cents on the dollar. Just measure it (H/W/L), note it's type 'example' "on/off/on", 12v, 5A, to match it.
I find the members here very helpful and knowledgeable (like Perry), but all we have to work with is the information that you provide, so try and gather a lil' more info about what the amp is doing and when it does it; I'm sure you'll get the help that you need. best regards,
rigtec
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To clarify, the switch doesn't have an off position where there is no connection to the 'output' terminal. The attached image shows a switch with 4 sets of independent contacts (the JL amp has only 2 sets of independent contacts per switch for the 3-position switches). You can see that in position 1, terminal 2 (T2) connects to T1. In position 2, T2 connects to T3, in position 3, T2 connects to T4.
If I'm not mistaken, this amp uses a 6.8v zener as a reference for the high-voltage cutoff. If the Zener is out of tolerance it could make the amp shut off at a lower voltage than it should. That's why I suggested asking JL if 14.5v is where the amp should shut down. If it should operate above that, the amp may be in need of repair.
If I'm not mistaken, this amp uses a 6.8v zener as a reference for the high-voltage cutoff. If the Zener is out of tolerance it could make the amp shut off at a lower voltage than it should. That's why I suggested asking JL if 14.5v is where the amp should shut down. If it should operate above that, the amp may be in need of repair.
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My bad,
You're right Perry. I mistakenly said "on/off/on" meaning "LPF, then filter 'by-pass' (full range), and HPF". So he'll need a 2 pole, three position selector switch w/on/on/on contacts (or was that four pole?). The other thing is, the O.P. stated that he doesn't have a volt meter, so how would he know that his problem is power supply related? I guess we'll find out what's going on if/when he reports back. cheers.
You're right Perry. I mistakenly said "on/off/on" meaning "LPF, then filter 'by-pass' (full range), and HPF". So he'll need a 2 pole, three position selector switch w/on/on/on contacts (or was that four pole?). The other thing is, the O.P. stated that he doesn't have a volt meter, so how would he know that his problem is power supply related? I guess we'll find out what's going on if/when he reports back. cheers.
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He stated that he was going to buy whatever was necessary. I guess we'll have to wait until he buys or borrows a meter.
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