Powers on no problem with no thermal or low ohm lights. Sound stays constant with gains at full, but as stated, very low output. Every 2-3 min it puts a momentary burst of power out but its a split second so unsure if its just a surge or if it is actual sound going through to sub. Three out of four caps looked and felt raised so pulled the cap off one to see if it was leaking. I know the covers always look pushed out, but you can feel it. Pic doesn't do much justice for it.
Would like suggestions, also, I've bought some caps for my LCD from digikey. Good site to purchase from?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Would like suggestions, also, I've bought some caps for my LCD from digikey. Good site to purchase from?
Digi-key is a good distributor.
The cap is likely OK.
Do you have a scope?
Have you tried operating all of the controls through their entire range with a speaker and signal source connected to see if it would ever produce clean audio?
What are you using for a signal source?
The cap is likely OK.
Do you have a scope?
Have you tried operating all of the controls through their entire range with a speaker and signal source connected to see if it would ever produce clean audio?
What are you using for a signal source?
useing my car which I run my jl 300/2 from with no problems. Headunit is a pioneer avh-4000dvd. Also bench tested it with an ipod running a 3.5mm jack to rca converter wire with a 120vac to 14vdc converter box, still same either way, so I eliminated any of the electrical is my car as the problem. I have played with every gain, filter, and everything in between on the amp. Only thing I haven't done was hook up a bass knob because I do not have one. All I have for testing is a multimeter and a test light, lol.
Sorry, work nights and been busy before work, bought an mtx 1501d amp from a pawnshop and its no good, so need to talk to them tomorrow morning. I will look at it tomorrow and get you the revision number after I go there. Going to try and get the mtx for as cheap as i can as a blown amp so that will be the next amp I will post on here if I can get it.
Ok, got up early to take care of a few things including this. heres a pic of the board plus some extras encase you see something I don't.
First, the revision.
As for the MTX, I found a post from 2007 off here and its practically identical to the problem this one is having, including the buzzing noise. If i get it for nothing Ill probably get it, if not to fix, then for a donor later on.
First, the revision.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As for the MTX, I found a post from 2007 off here and its practically identical to the problem this one is having, including the buzzing noise. If i get it for nothing Ill probably get it, if not to fix, then for a donor later on.
Ok, sorry for the delay in replies. Navy has been running me raggid. Took the 2 legs off the board. Realized when I hooked up the power and ground that it arked like normal, but when I pull it out and put it in 2-3 secs later it arked again. I know all amps ark when the caps are charged, but they usually stay charged for a few min. Is this normal for this amp or for when you take those legs off the board?
With it wired up and powered on it plays like normal on low volume but once turned up it distorts and wont put any more power to the sub. A bit hard to explain but I can make a video if needed.
Let me know if you need me to explain further and what I need to try next. Also, should i resolder the transistor?
With it wired up and powered on it plays like normal on low volume but once turned up it distorts and wont put any more power to the sub. A bit hard to explain but I can make a video if needed.
Let me know if you need me to explain further and what I need to try next. Also, should i resolder the transistor?
That transistor should have no effect on the draw from the power supply before remote voltage is applied. It's a muting transistor. What are you using for a power supply.
Don't make a video if it's for me. I won't watch it.
Was it distorted before?
What is the DC voltage on each of the speaker terminals (black probe on the amp's ground terminal)?
Don't make a video if it's for me. I won't watch it.
Was it distorted before?
What is the DC voltage on each of the speaker terminals (black probe on the amp's ground terminal)?
I will start this post by stating the obvious. YOU ARE THE MAN! Found the resistors and they are burned. Took the best pics I could.
Do you know what resistance these are or part-number? I see the 490 on it but thats all i see.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do you know what resistance these are or part-number? I see the 490 on it but thats all i see.
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Thanks. Last thing I want to ask is if this is the right part for a replacement.
My transistor
Digi-Key - IRFZ44N,127-ND (Manufacturer - IRFZ44N,127)
Last but not least, could you recommend a resistor through digikey? Never messed with these surface mount resistors before, so never seen so many kinds, sizes, and power ratings. Sorry for the noobness to this, lol.
My transistor
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Digi-Key - IRFZ44N,127-ND (Manufacturer - IRFZ44N,127)
Last but not least, could you recommend a resistor through digikey? Never messed with these surface mount resistors before, so never seen so many kinds, sizes, and power ratings. Sorry for the noobness to this, lol.
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