[special=For what it's worth, I really like the sound of the JJ 2A3-40 and they should have no issue with 16-18w Pd. Of course, they are a bit more expensive than other new 2A3's, but not terribly.]%[/special]
I agree. I have used many variants of 45s and 2A3s and a Vaic VV30B. The JJ 2A3-40 is my favorite tub now. I built/used 45 amps for years until I found this tube.
Jim D.
I agree. I have used many variants of 45s and 2A3s and a Vaic VV30B. The JJ 2A3-40 is my favorite tub now. I built/used 45 amps for years until I found this tube.
Jim D.
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Aren't the new single plate (such as the affordable JJ 2A3-40) an improvement (More like a 45) sonically over the double plate (even NOS)? NOS single plate are too rare and so $.
Yes, the JJ 2A3-40 is a great tube and at a very affordable price; I have a quartet of them. They may not look exactly like an original 2A3 but electrically the are a 2A3 as substantiated by the plate curves which match the originals. They will bias up at -45V with Ep = 250V @ 60mA which by definition makes them a 2A3. They happen to have 300B plates which affords them much better plate dissipation, but don't be fooled by those with no experience with this tube: they are 2A3s electrically and sound like a 2A3.
I have to agree for a reasonable price tube the JJ 2A3-40 are OK. If you want to spend the money then the KR or even the Sophia Electric are very nice. Let's not forget unless you are willing to spend money on the output transformers like the Tango, Hashimoto, or my fav's the Onetics, you are not going to hear the difference.
Everyone has their favorite, but I like direct coupled designs. It takes the cap out of the signal path. You have to be willing to spend money for a top quality coupling cap or it just wrecks the sound quality no mater what tube you use. For a few good schematics see Sound Practices spring and summer 94 issues. One of my favorite designs is the Shishido Loftin/White 2A3 which I have built several times. I have built it, the JC Morrison, and the Electraprint. I’m not a big fan of 12AX7s (unless it is a NOS Genelex B759), I’d rather listen to a RCA 5691 (Red Plate 6SL7), 6DJ8 (6N23P-ev or 6N1P-ev Russian version) or better yet an all DHT design using a 26 or even a 1H4g.
Everyone has their favorite, but I like direct coupled designs. It takes the cap out of the signal path. You have to be willing to spend money for a top quality coupling cap or it just wrecks the sound quality no mater what tube you use. For a few good schematics see Sound Practices spring and summer 94 issues. One of my favorite designs is the Shishido Loftin/White 2A3 which I have built several times. I have built it, the JC Morrison, and the Electraprint. I’m not a big fan of 12AX7s (unless it is a NOS Genelex B759), I’d rather listen to a RCA 5691 (Red Plate 6SL7), 6DJ8 (6N23P-ev or 6N1P-ev Russian version) or better yet an all DHT design using a 26 or even a 1H4g.
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but I like direct coupled designs. It takes the cap out of the signal path. You have to be willing to spend money for a top quality coupling cap or it just wrecks the sound quality no mater what tube you use.
I have to agree. The difference between direct coupling and RC coupling is substantial and I would make every effort to do away with the coupling cap. Here's my DRD/monkey to use as an example.
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Yes, the JJ 2A3-40 is a great tube and at a very affordable price; I have a quartet of them. They may not look exactly like an original 2A3 but electrically the are a 2A3 as substantiated by the plate curves which match the originals. They will bias up at -45V with Ep = 250V @ 60mA which by definition makes them a 2A3. They happen to have 300B plates which affords them much better plate dissipation, but don't be fooled by those with no experience with this tube: they are 2A3s electrically and sound like a 2A3.
They aren't! I have them. This doesn't mean they are not good. The specs are similar, they look like but they definitely aren't 2A3's.
Before telling that the others don't have experience without knowing anything think about yours. You don't even know how a tube works and how self bias works!!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/245432-je-labs-type-76-preamp-build.html
Post 23 first attachment file,... Shishido's Loftin White SE 2A3 with cathode and heater decision 😎😎 Sound, without interstage cap, is really higher for a level...😎
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Can you explain how you chose the ultrapath cap value? I arbitrarily chose 100uf after some trial and error. It works, but i'd like to optimize the circuit.I have to agree. The difference between direct coupling and RC coupling is substantial and I would make every effort to do away with the coupling cap. Here's my DRD/monkey to use as an example.
I have to agree. The difference between direct coupling and RC coupling is substantial and I would make every effort to do away with the coupling cap. Here's my DRD/monkey to use as an example.
A true 2A3 will run at no less than 90 mA with 290V and -50V bias (with AC filament supply).
My goodness 45 you certainly have your panties in a big twist!
I stand by every statement I have made.
You can choose to disagree with me on some technical points, perhaps you enjoy second harmonic distortion; I don't. Your wild and unfounded assertions show that you are quite volatile when someone disagrees with you; perhaps you wet your bed as a child and are still self conscious about it.
Why not listen to a Mozart piano sonata, sip some wine, and relax? This is only audio!
I stand by every statement I have made.
You can choose to disagree with me on some technical points, perhaps you enjoy second harmonic distortion; I don't. Your wild and unfounded assertions show that you are quite volatile when someone disagrees with you; perhaps you wet your bed as a child and are still self conscious about it.
Why not listen to a Mozart piano sonata, sip some wine, and relax? This is only audio!
They aren't! I have them. This doesn't mean they are not good. The specs are similar, they look like but they definitely aren't 2A3's.
I Agree. It has more in common with a 300B. A nice feature is the 2.5V filament. I've been running a pair of these fairly hard for the last 3 years. Great tube.
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My goodness 45 you certainly have your panties in a big twist!
I stand by every statement I have made.
You can choose to disagree with me on some technical points, perhaps you enjoy second harmonic distortion; I don't. Your wild and unfounded assertions show that you are quite volatile when someone disagrees with you; perhaps you wet your bed as a child and are still self conscious about it.
Why not listen to a Mozart piano sonata, sip some wine, and relax? This is only audio!
You can stand whatever you want but the FACT is you don't know how tubes work and that a true 2A3 double plate, NOS or Chinese doesn't make a difference, will die soon in your monkey at 290V with -50V bias. Even worse a 6C4C that will draw more than 100mA...
It's not an opinion is a fact. I can bet on it. Granted!
Your ignorance is just bad for the others and the 76 preamp is a proof (reason why I put that link).
Other comments just qualify you as a child, I am afraid.
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Can you explain how you chose the ultrapath cap value? I arbitrarily chose 100uf after some trial and error. It works, but i'd like to optimize the circuit.
I chose 50uF the same way: trial and error. I found that there was no reduction in bandwidth with the 50uF cap as opposed to the 100uF cap.
Can you explain how you chose the ultrapath cap value? I arbitrarily chose 100uf after some trial and error. It works, but i'd like to optimize the circuit.
Generally, the larger the better.
I have to agree. The difference between direct coupling and RC coupling is substantial and I would make every effort to do away with the coupling cap. Here's my DRD/monkey to use as an example.
That's a nice schematic. Thanks for sharing.
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