I have a pair of three way JBL Hartsfields with the 075 tweeter. I find that the 075 beams and can be fatiguing. Several sites recommend the FaitalPRO HF10AK 16ohm as a good replacement. My quest for the DUI experts it this, on paper the specs between the compression drivers seem identical. Can I just drop in the FaitalPRO with zero changes to the cross over?
Thanks!
Thanks!
The FaitalPRO HF10AK is a 1" exit horn driver.
It is not remotely a "drop in" replacement for an 075 tweeter.
If you were to buy a horn for it, and butcher your JBL Hartsfields to fit the new horn, the crossover still would need to be reworked, as the impedance response is very different from the 075.
The JBL 077/2405J "slot" tweeter would/may physically fit, and has a wide horizontal dispersion, but may still need a crossover tweak.
Art
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@weltersys
If you know anything about the Hartsfield, you would know I didn’t have “butcher” it to change a tweeter.
If you know anything about the Hartsfield, you would know I didn’t have “butcher” it to change a tweeter.
@jeff1225
The quality of the audio from the JBL 375//2440 would have me run it out to its top-end' pass-band limit ( of @ 9-9.5K ) and then bring in the tweeter after that.
- I do this with my Altec 288-8K driver and a Fostex T945N ( whic is a 1980-90's, JBL bullet wanna-a-bee ).
At 9K, the 375's HF response takes a steep dive.
See the following ( pic from HERE!! ):
That pic has quite good correlation to me own measurements of a pair of 2440's on the NWS340 ( studio ) horn.
Interestingly ( to me at least ) is that the iconic George Augspurger used both these horn models in his earliest Studio Monitor designs.
My recommendation ( before spending $600.00 on a new tweeter ) is to optimize what you already have.
To do this;
(a) Run the JBL 375/2390 combo full out ( bypass the horn lead out wires from the N7000 outputs for it and connect the horn-driver directly to the N400?? HF output.
(b) Disconnect the N7000 completely and build a new HiPass for the 2402H ( 075 ) tweeter. IME > The sound much much better when crossed higher.
- A steep slope at 9-10K is appropriate and can be economically achieved with a 0.68uF cap > followed by a 1.0uF cap > with a 0.10mH coil connecting a their juncture and then going to ground > followed by an 8-ohm variable Lpad ( connected just before the leadin wires go to the 075.
Like this;
FYI, your opening post for this thread is much too ambiguous for proper responses and ( that failure ) certainly doesn't give you licence to be snippy with anyone here trying to sort through the fog that you yourself have created.
FWIW, no-one has response graphs ( that I can find via Google ) for that FaitalPro driver running raw ( IOW; no horn attached ) as an adhoc tweeter ( as was done in some Westlake studio monitors and the infamour Rod Stewart monitor ( The RodSpeaker ) .
- As a consequence, no-one can answer your question about the appropriateness of using the N7000 crossover with the HF10AK.
Here's the "The RodSpeaker" that had an Altec 802-8D spraying straight out of it's 1" aperture ( the horn is the 511E with a 288-8G on it ).
![gw2sfiobjv73ax0gcgxk[1].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/gw2sfiobjv73ax0gcgxk-1-jpg.1314538/ "gw2sfiobjv73ax0gcgxk[1].jpg")
Now if you intend to use a horn attached to that FaitalPro driver > then please tell us ( and we can stop the guessing ).
If so, I'd recommend one of B&C's ( small metal > flat-front ) horns such as the ME20 . It would be easy enough to hang off the internal LF horn lip ( while still hiding behind the cloth grill ).
The quality of the audio from the JBL 375//2440 would have me run it out to its top-end' pass-band limit ( of @ 9-9.5K ) and then bring in the tweeter after that.
- I do this with my Altec 288-8K driver and a Fostex T945N ( whic is a 1980-90's, JBL bullet wanna-a-bee ).
At 9K, the 375's HF response takes a steep dive.
See the following ( pic from HERE!! ):
That pic has quite good correlation to me own measurements of a pair of 2440's on the NWS340 ( studio ) horn.
Interestingly ( to me at least ) is that the iconic George Augspurger used both these horn models in his earliest Studio Monitor designs.
My recommendation ( before spending $600.00 on a new tweeter ) is to optimize what you already have.
To do this;
(a) Run the JBL 375/2390 combo full out ( bypass the horn lead out wires from the N7000 outputs for it and connect the horn-driver directly to the N400?? HF output.
(b) Disconnect the N7000 completely and build a new HiPass for the 2402H ( 075 ) tweeter. IME > The sound much much better when crossed higher.
- A steep slope at 9-10K is appropriate and can be economically achieved with a 0.68uF cap > followed by a 1.0uF cap > with a 0.10mH coil connecting a their juncture and then going to ground > followed by an 8-ohm variable Lpad ( connected just before the leadin wires go to the 075.
Like this;
FYI, your opening post for this thread is much too ambiguous for proper responses and ( that failure ) certainly doesn't give you licence to be snippy with anyone here trying to sort through the fog that you yourself have created.
FWIW, no-one has response graphs ( that I can find via Google ) for that FaitalPro driver running raw ( IOW; no horn attached ) as an adhoc tweeter ( as was done in some Westlake studio monitors and the infamour Rod Stewart monitor ( The RodSpeaker ) .
- As a consequence, no-one can answer your question about the appropriateness of using the N7000 crossover with the HF10AK.
Here's the "The RodSpeaker" that had an Altec 802-8D spraying straight out of it's 1" aperture ( the horn is the 511E with a 288-8G on it ).
Now if you intend to use a horn attached to that FaitalPro driver > then please tell us ( and we can stop the guessing ).
If so, I'd recommend one of B&C's ( small metal > flat-front ) horns such as the ME20 . It would be easy enough to hang off the internal LF horn lip ( while still hiding behind the cloth grill ).
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