One, two and 3 washers on the pair of Dayton epique 5.5” passive radiators. Pair of tangband w5-1138f in isobaric
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These impedance bumps in the 30Hz range look like the passive radiators are hardly working, something like a leaky sealed box.
What drive voltage was used for the impedance test?
Do you mean the passive radiators don't work below some drive level?
Did you try stretching them to Xlim before the tests?
What drive voltage was used for the impedance test?
Perky..
Do you mean the passive radiators don't work below some drive level?
Did you try stretching them to Xlim before the tests?
Makes me wonder how that 3x 4ohm sub is wired for that 4 ohm stable stereo and 8 ohm bridged Emotiva amp.
If those are both W31876S, then other parameters have likely shifted to keep the model the same. I had a W5-1138 with a 60Hz Fs once, but the model matched anyway.
I still say the small BP4 I built called Goosebump has the best performance this little booger can give. Vented it needs a highpass, but BP4 gives a solid air-spring to keep it from unloading.
I still say the small BP4 I built called Goosebump has the best performance this little booger can give. Vented it needs a highpass, but BP4 gives a solid air-spring to keep it from unloading.
I’m using the w5-1138 ferrite’s. Sorry if it got confused with the w3 in the hexibase design video
Is there a way to get a decent (low tuned) bp4 out if a driver with such a high Fs?
Is there a way to get a decent (low tuned) bp4 out if a driver with such a high Fs?
The 1138 is not really suited to a BP4 without low end boost. It really is more of a vented box woofer.