Hi,
I was wondering if anyone knew of any good pre existing 12" isobaric designs. I'm looking to make four boxes. I'm also new to making isobaric subs and am open to suggestions, concepts, and advice on making them.
Thanks regardless!
I was wondering if anyone knew of any good pre existing 12" isobaric designs. I'm looking to make four boxes. I'm also new to making isobaric subs and am open to suggestions, concepts, and advice on making them.
Thanks regardless!
Why isobarik? Do you have woofers that do not fit in small enuff volume?
With the woofers available today, isobarik is only really useful if you need to (close to) half the volume of box.
dave
With the woofers available today, isobarik is only really useful if you need to (close to) half the volume of box.
dave
The specs being asked for a 14” x 14” baffle leave me mostly only with 12” speakers as an option and they want to reach 30hz without doing a large transmission line or horn. Isobaric gos low in a small package
You can get 30Hz out of a non-isobaric 12" just fine. Sealed box + EQ is one way to do it, or you could go ported. 4x triangular ports on the baffle would probably provide enough port area.
What sort of SPL or sensitivity are you looking for?
How much power is on tap?
Given those baffle dimensions, how deep can the cabinet be?
Got any signal processing?
Chris
What sort of SPL or sensitivity are you looking for?
How much power is on tap?
Given those baffle dimensions, how deep can the cabinet be?
Got any signal processing?
Chris
buildafriend,
Just a warning about Isobaric, they can build up air pressure between the cones. The one you can't see may get pushed back so much it might not even move.
You would have better luck with Isobaric in a HT, but loud steady music can be a real problem.
Just a warning about Isobaric, they can build up air pressure between the cones. The one you can't see may get pushed back so much it might not even move.
You would have better luck with Isobaric in a HT, but loud steady music can be a real problem.
Hi
I've built an Isobaric sub utilising 2 off peerless 830500 12" drivers -and used as a corner coffee table
From memory they are about 70-80litres in size and seem to go down to about 20hz no worries
I used box plot to do the calcs for a vented isobaric enclosure
the drivers are also mounted face to face to minimise air void between drivers.
Admittedly they are also eq'd using a Behringer BFD2496 (?) and fed by an old BGW8000 power amp
I'm happy with them ......
I've built an Isobaric sub utilising 2 off peerless 830500 12" drivers -and used as a corner coffee table
From memory they are about 70-80litres in size and seem to go down to about 20hz no worries
I used box plot to do the calcs for a vented isobaric enclosure
the drivers are also mounted face to face to minimise air void between drivers.
Admittedly they are also eq'd using a Behringer BFD2496 (?) and fed by an old BGW8000 power amp
I'm happy with them ......
What are the subs for home theater?
How low do you need them to go just sub bass for music or LFE?
Kicker square subs will give you the most cone area on a 14"x14"baffle, they are originally designed on isobaric type specs for use in ultra small enclosures but they do need several hundred watts(like 500wrms) to shine, the 12" models need about 2cf to dig deep without relying on car cabin gain to under 1cf for in car
How low do you need them to go just sub bass for music or LFE?
Kicker square subs will give you the most cone area on a 14"x14"baffle, they are originally designed on isobaric type specs for use in ultra small enclosures but they do need several hundred watts(like 500wrms) to shine, the 12" models need about 2cf to dig deep without relying on car cabin gain to under 1cf for in car
Years ago I had an Audio Concepts Saturn subwoofer. It used 2 face to face down firing Eclipse w1238r in 2.5 cu.ft cabinet…20 hz was no problem for this sub.
Huh. Isobarik, equal pressure. A properly designed isobarik will have no such issues.
dave