That Fane is a full-range unit, and gets up to about 15kHz.
It'd make your project very simple by covering the full frequency range with a single driver.
Chris
I found SOV.12-250TC while looking for the fane 15. Those drivers are impressive. Up to 17khz and 100 spl WOW!
I was only able to find one distributor in north America which is solen.ca.
One driver is $132cad. Then there's shipping, the amp to push 250w, the power supply and all the odds and ends to complete the build. As awesome as that driver is I don't think I could keep it under $200cad.
I was only able to find one distributor in north America which is solen.ca.
One driver is $132cad. Then there's shipping, the amp to push 250w, the power supply and all the odds and ends to complete the build. As awesome as that driver is I don't think I could keep it under $200cad.
Nope.
Remember: 250w is the survival rating of that driver. It's where the red line is, before it lets the smoke out and stops working. It can be used at any power level you like.
An amplifier tries to put out as much power as you tell it to. Turn the volume up, and it's putting out a bit more. Most of the time, you're likely to be running at very low power levels - well within reach of both the amplifier and the speaker.
If you wanted to get every last bit of performance out of that speaker, then a large amplifier would be necessary. However, for the first 3/4 of the volume control, a smaller amp will do the job just fine.
FWIW, I've run a 21" 1800w subwoofer from my phone's headphone socket. Wasn't particularly loud, but some music did come out.
Chris
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
let me guess, you'd misplaced your earbuds and needed something to listen with whilst you were riding the bus ?
It seems to be that you are putting too many Begs in one Ask It.
I think someone recommended the Boominator Thread. That is a nice single box portable system, in essence a Boom Box but an actually good one.
Next $200 is a bit unrealistic.
Next, 200w/ch even in an efficient Class-D amp still uses a lot of Current, and that is not something you have with a battery powered system. The more Current the shorter the battery life.
Consider more modest power, and a 12v battery, or perhaps TWO 12v batteries.
Next the drivers, you need to choose your drives wisely to make sure they will work together, though that's easier in a 3-way system. You need to make sure the drivers have someone similar Sensitivity Ratings. Otherwise any driver that is louder than the others will have to be attenuated.
Additionally regarding the drivers, you probably want them all to be 8 ohm rated. Lower impedance means more current, which in turn means less battery life. So ... no 4 ohm drivers. Plus, coming up with an off the shelf crossover is much easier if all the drivers are 8 ohm.
Go to parts express and look at the Spec Frequency Response Graph of an assortment of 8" Bass Drivers and you will see what I mean. All the Dayton have a Spec Sheet in the description.
Dayton Classic 8" - Rated 29 to 3,000hz
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/DC200-8 8_ Classic Woofer 8 Ohm Specification Sheet.pdf
But if you look at the graph, it is really only good to 1khz.
Dayton 8" Reference -
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-356--rs225-8-spec-sheet.pdf
Good to about 2khz.
Dayton 8" Reference Paper -
https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...rs225p-8a-reference-series-specifications.pdf
Then you need to consider Crossovers. The common frequency response of a given driver can't be trusted, you need full specs with frequency response graphs. Many driver has odd resonances, or claim response up to 5,000hz but when you look at the frequency response graph, you see they are only flat to 1,000hz with the potential to push perhaps as high as 1,500hz.
Typical Crossovers for a 3-way would be 800hz and about 5,000hz.
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-crossover-3-way-8-ohm-800-5000-hz-100w--260-210
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-xo3w-700-56k-3-way-speaker-crossover-700-5600-hz--260-156
As to the rated frequency response of the Woofer, using the Dayton Classic 8" as an example, you will only get 29hz in the absolute ideal size cabinet, which tend to be pretty large.
Parts Express has worked out cabinet sizes for Sealed and Ported.
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion) -
* Sealed Volume = 0.46 ft.³, Sealed F3 = 66 Hz
* Vented Volume = 1.36 ft.³, Vented F3 = 37 Hz
Which is actually a pretty small cabinet. My 12" 3-way speakers are in about 2.6 Ft³ cabinets and should technically be closer to 5 ft³.
KEEP IN MIND that it is fairly common for the MIDRANGE to be wired Backwards (+ to -) in a 3-way system. If you look at 3-way projects you will commonly see this.
So, there are a lot of factors to consider. It is a complex process with many considerations.
Depending on what you want for BLUETOOTH, there are many receivers to choose from on Amazon, you just need to consider what you need and what you are willing to pay, and how much space you have to place it within a cabinet.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluetooth+Receiver&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
This one is small and cheap enough, but with a somewhat limited range -
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Wireless-NFC-Enabled-Streaming/dp/B07TK8ZKQT/
Boominator Mini status 2016, and other options for smaller boombox.
"Portable" bluetooth speaker build advice
2 x 3 way boombox.
DIY boombox. F3 of a DIY enclosure? Vent sizing? HPF to protect woofer?
Good portable system? If not, Let me know why.
Portable Bluetooth Speaker DIY
Just a few thoughts.
Steve/Bluewizard
Last edited:
In a large enough cabinet, a 3-way can sound pretty good with off the shelf components, but there are many considerations that come into play
YouTube - Santana - 12" DIY 3-way Speakers, Yamaha RX-797 Receiver
The tested low end on these is actually around 40hz to perhaps at best 35hz. But just by shear size alone, they kick pretty hard.
Keep in mind I'm driving these at about 70db to 75db with a 100w/ch amp in the video. Any louder and the Camera Microphone starts to distort.
Steve/bluewizard
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.