Hope the photo shows.. You can enlarge 3 times! It gets real big.
The binding posts. There is a nut securing each one to the back panel. There is a substance that was used to lock the nuts secure. Not sure if that is Locktite. Anyone know for sure what it may be?
Thanks, Gene
http://www.nu-force.ru/images/nf-udh-100-sat-100-bigpic06.jpg
The binding posts. There is a nut securing each one to the back panel. There is a substance that was used to lock the nuts secure. Not sure if that is Locktite. Anyone know for sure what it may be?
Thanks, Gene
http://www.nu-force.ru/images/nf-udh-100-sat-100-bigpic06.jpg

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Yup Loctite 'Green'
Green Loctite | Loctite Green - Henkel North America
Lovely stuff it's thin and will wick into screw threads - easiest release is to unsolder the wires and then use a reasonably sized soldering iron tip @ about 550 - 650 degrees F to heat the post to about 375 - 400 F to release the loctite but not melt the plastics.
The loctite will phase-change when heated and stay changed for a surprisingly long time because its setting is partially anaerobic - more than long enough to unthread the nuts.
cheers
Jim
Green Loctite | Loctite Green - Henkel North America
Lovely stuff it's thin and will wick into screw threads - easiest release is to unsolder the wires and then use a reasonably sized soldering iron tip @ about 550 - 650 degrees F to heat the post to about 375 - 400 F to release the loctite but not melt the plastics.
The loctite will phase-change when heated and stay changed for a surprisingly long time because its setting is partially anaerobic - more than long enough to unthread the nuts.
cheers
Jim
Yup Loctite 'Green'
Green Loctite | Loctite Green - Henkel North America
Lovely stuff it's thin and will wick into screw threads - easiest release is to unsolder the wires and then use a reasonably sized soldering iron tip @ about 550 - 650 degrees F to heat the post to about 375 - 400 F to release the loctite but not melt the plastics.
The loctite will phase-change when heated and stay changed for a surprisingly long time because its setting is partially anaerobic - more than long enough to unthread the nuts.
cheers
Jim
Thank you, Jim.
... for reasons unknown. One post worked loose, and I did not want to touch anything before I knew what to use.
Thanks again!
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Actually, it looks more like a lacquer or paint seal. Locktite is an anerobic adhesive - it cures when isolated from air down in the screw threads; it's also in my experience very thin in consistency (very watery) and makes its bond down inside the junction between the male and female threads. This looks like a tamperproofing paint that's applied after things are together and that stays outside the joint.
FWIW.
-Pat
FWIW.
-Pat
I've had a freebie from Locktite many years ago, a new cordless screwdriver. The anaerobic stuff attacks certain plastics (which wasn't mentioned on the bottle)... I whinged, I got a result 😀
Locktite do (did) a traditional threadlock compound too in red or green, its pretty much like nail varnish.
It is so much better buying Locktite from a wholesaler than having to shop for nail varnish and asking questions like 'is this one brittle', or 'can it stand the heat' 😉
Locktite do (did) a traditional threadlock compound too in red or green, its pretty much like nail varnish.
It is so much better buying Locktite from a wholesaler than having to shop for nail varnish and asking questions like 'is this one brittle', or 'can it stand the heat' 😉
Yup Loctite 'Green'
Green Loctite | Loctite Green - Henkel North America
Lovely stuff it's thin and will wick into screw threads - easiest release is to unsolder the wires and then use a reasonably sized soldering iron tip @ about 550 - 650 degrees F to heat the post to about 375 - 400 F to release the loctite but not melt the plastics.
The loctite will phase-change when heated and stay changed for a surprisingly long time because its setting is partially anaerobic - more than long enough to unthread the nuts.
cheers
Jim
How about using a hot air gun?
Permatex (Devcon) is much better than Loctite. Brought to you by the same people who make Kester, Rocol, Rain-X, and are nice enough to give me a paycheck every two weeks. 😀
ITW Devcon | OEM Adhesives | Threadlockers - Liquid
ITW Devcon | OEM Adhesives | Threadlockers - Liquid
Even if I have the assembly in my hands it's often difficult for me to tell the difference between anaerobic thread locking compounds (such as Loctite) and simple lacquer sometimes used to perform the same function (prevent fasteners from loosening under vibration or thermal cycling) at a lower cost.
If you can attack the edges of the sealing material with a pointed object (like a large sewing needle, or dental pick) and it breaks loose in chunky flakes - like dried nail polish chipping off - then it's probably lacquer. If the torque required to break the fastener loose seems to be approaching a level that cab damage the parts, a drop of acetone or MEK on a cotton swab should soften the locking compound. (And could damage plastic parts it touches.)
If it really is anaerobic thread locker, the heat treatment is the only method I'm aware of.
Dale
If you can attack the edges of the sealing material with a pointed object (like a large sewing needle, or dental pick) and it breaks loose in chunky flakes - like dried nail polish chipping off - then it's probably lacquer. If the torque required to break the fastener loose seems to be approaching a level that cab damage the parts, a drop of acetone or MEK on a cotton swab should soften the locking compound. (And could damage plastic parts it touches.)
If it really is anaerobic thread locker, the heat treatment is the only method I'm aware of.
Dale
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