I can't tell what make or model it is from those blurry pictures...
Surely you can give more information to support your question, Wik?
Surely you can give more information to support your question, Wik?
The name rings a bell, but it depends on what you're looking for. These days I avoid woofers and subs with big rubber surrounds because of the weight and stiffness, and the implied high Xmax. I don't need +/-10mm Xmax capability, more like 2 or 3mm so I get "pro-audio" mid-woofers with cloth surrounds, and EQ them. But if you need +/-10mm, that looks about right.
Worse; hopefully there's still some youtube/whatever videos showing how badly these type drivers physically distorts, 'rocks' on its surround.
Used car subs could be a bargain or they could be junk, depending on how they've been treated. Playing a loud sine wave sweep through the subwoofer frequencies should reveal any buzzes or rattles.
As loud as you can stand, and start in the single digit Hz and go up to a couple kHz. It's best to do this with an analog sine wave generator, since you can sweep very slowly, and back up and tune in if you notice a buzz or rattle. Just like tuning in a faint signal on an analog radio. But, since not everyone has access to a sine wave (or function) generator, there's probably an app that can generate slow sine wave sweeps, or there are various test CDs with sine wave sweeps. And for that matter, it should be pretty easy to generate a sine wave sweep with audio editing software and burn your own CD with a slow wide range sweep. Or, if you're not in a hurry, you can buy a sine wave generator kit for a few bucks online (based on clones of the XR2206 or ICL8038).
Or you could just try playing some bass-heavy music and listen carefully. But a sine wave really shines a spotlight on any flaws, because it'll go from a pure tone to a buzz or whine (at high frequencies) if you hit a mechanical resonance.
Or you could just try playing some bass-heavy music and listen carefully. But a sine wave really shines a spotlight on any flaws, because it'll go from a pure tone to a buzz or whine (at high frequencies) if you hit a mechanical resonance.
i just found this type of sub being build from 2007 ,, can it beaten by now design (about 16 year gap) with same dollars?
- How much dollars?
- What are you going to use it for? If home, how big a room, what other speakers and equipment? If in a vehicle, what make model year?
Indeed, I have one of the original in/under dash amps from circa '79? in a '75 Bricklin that made Sony's upscale coax speakers 'sing' plus around the same time got one of their surround sound processors that was pretty cool for the times, but was quickly eclipsed by the much more expensive/comprehensive dbx system by a 'country mile', so experimented with it in the Bricklin, but just so-so, so it's rotting away in a box 'somewhere' on my property, no doubt moisture ruined by now.
Never used any of their drivers beyond helping folks with box designs, but like a Timex, they can 'take a licking and keep on ticking' if properly power limited. A long gone neighbor put two in a BP4 in the back of a circa 1990 Honda Accord two door coupe and I warned him that the speaker/amp was capable of some serious pressure, but he cranked it anyway with the windows up, A/C on and it popped the rear window clean out onto the trunk lid and fortunately one of his buddys caught it before hitting the driveway.
Never used any of their drivers beyond helping folks with box designs, but like a Timex, they can 'take a licking and keep on ticking' if properly power limited. A long gone neighbor put two in a BP4 in the back of a circa 1990 Honda Accord two door coupe and I warned him that the speaker/amp was capable of some serious pressure, but he cranked it anyway with the windows up, A/C on and it popped the rear window clean out onto the trunk lid and fortunately one of his buddys caught it before hitting the driveway.
Often its how its being filmed a bit like some lights make recording video difficult, must also remember the nut case drives their sub with way too much power with the amp and volume pegged
Also RF generally make great products, but Id imagine the cheap range of product is no better than any mainstream brand
about 100$
in house about 13x10x10 feets
is that any subwoofer (which made about last 3 years which price is $100 which new or second) that can beat this subwoofer????
True, but my point is that many popular sub brands are historically not nearly as pistonic as they need to be for the high power sub duty they advertise. No clue about the more high end ones perform, though historically the $prosound$ ones I used did quite well, though none had very high Xmax, but hopefully they're still designing/building to at least the same or higher, performance standards.
As for RF, the ones in the Honda were relatively inexpensive, though more than whatever was being sold at the big box stores that were well known for being truly 'one note'.
Yeah, bought new in '75 in a true 'blowout' sale to the point where I could scrap it and still feel like I got a bargain of a lifetime just in entertainment value alone, way more than the few other 'exotics' I've owned/considered buying at the time with the added bonus of price/mi due to its safety vehicle insurance deduct and relatively good gas mileage/maintenance cost in comparison.