Is this dual mono F-5 wiring correct?

[Russellc]

Never mind about semi recent editing on 6L6's F-5 build thread on proper power supply grounding as discussed by AndrewT, as I have not YET implemented them, having learned to "fix" one thing at the time. These power supply boards are grounded the old way originally specified by the boards creator, Peter Daniels. (it is quiet, however) Also, never mind the loose "bird's nest" wiring, that too will be tightened up and redone as well, when some resistor and mosfet replacement occurs.

Also, both halfs are done now with X-1 caps installed, only 1/2 done in photo...

I just want discussion on the CL-60-cap-CL-60 power inputs wiring done now that I have rewired with Neutrik power inputs. Also, being a dual mono amp, I believe I did the power supply board/CL-60/power input/chassis ground correctly, but I seem to be able to do most anything incorrectly wiring wise, so feel free to comment!

Thanks for any commentary!

Russellc

 

[Russellc]

Well, after 125 views I'll guess its wired properly in terms of basic dual mono grounding protocol...little surprising no one caught no fuse or on/off switch...well it is a rewire for checking, so there is now!

The whole grounding-hum-toasty resistor is finally traced to Roku box. A brand new one hums as well, but something is whacky with the original one's grounding on the RCA outputs that makes it a full on hum monster along with loud cracks. It is now relegated to TV only duty with sound going through HDMI bable for the rest of its days.

When something went wrong, hum/crack noise began, F-5 being extremely wide band tanned its resistor as result. Mr Pass was correct, imagine that! http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/274872-problem-toasty-resistor-f-5-a.html#post4338111

That F-5 is in another system now, operating fine but with my jaundiced eye watching it until the boards pictured below (note 5 watt mills in positions where other resistors tanned)and new IRF fets are installed. Nice set on Toshiba BL grade (Choices from around 6.49 to 9.00) for the Jfets.

Finish Aleph J next, (only need case) then cascoded two pair per side F-5C board with 24 + 24 transformer, basically a Turbo v2 sans diode mess. Will use IRF outputs there as well. Have some 180 ohm for the feedback resistors for a touch more gain that the 100 ohm standard ones allow. Who knows, may use standard 100 ohm and standard 18 + 18 500-800 VA transformer...

Russellc

 

[albertNL]

Never mind about semi recent editing on 6L6's F-5 build thread on proper power supply grounding as discussed by AndrewT, as I have not YET implemented them, having learned to "fix" one thing at the time. These power supply boards are grounded the old way originally specified by the boards creator, Peter Daniels. (it is quiet, however) Also, never mind the loose "bird's nest" wiring, that too will be tightened up and redone as well, when some resistor and mosfet replacement occurs.

Also, both halfs are done now with X-1 caps installed, only 1/2 done in photo...

I just want discussion on the CL-60-cap-CL-60 power inputs wiring done now that I have rewired with Neutrik power inputs. Also, being a dual mono amp, I believe I did the power supply board/CL-60/power input/chassis ground correctly, but I seem to be able to do most anything incorrectly wiring wise, so feel free to comment!

Thanks for any commentary!

Russellc

Hi Russelc,

Cannot see any obvious mistakes. Would make sure the CL-60's are kept well away from any wiring, as they get really hot (and could melt the insulation). On the 4th photo the bottom right CL-60 seems very close to touching the black mains wire from the Neutrik power input. Could be due to angle of photo, but I would check to avoid potential short circuits.

I have used Peter Daniels PSU boards in the past but connected signalground to a starpoint not located on the board. This starpoint was connected to the GND point on the board AFTER the second set of caps (yours is before the second set of caps). Not sure if there will be more noise the way you connected it.
According to the enclosed PDF, ideally the starpoint is actually a T. Makes sense the way it is explained. Am afraid I cannot remember where I got the file from, I downloaded it and saved it to a "grounding" folder on my disk.

Albert

 

[Russellc]

Hi Russelc,

Cannot see any obvious mistakes. Would make sure the CL-60's are kept well away from any wiring, as they get really hot (and could melt the insulation). On the 4th photo the bottom right CL-60 seems very close to touching the black mains wire from the Neutrik power input. Could be due to angle of photo, but I would check to avoid potential short circuits.

I have used Peter Daniels PSU boards in the past but connected signalground to a starpoint not located on the board. This starpoint was connected to the GND point on the board AFTER the second set of caps (yours is before the second set of caps). Not sure if there will be more noise the way you connected it.
According to the enclosed PDF, ideally the starpoint is actually a T. Makes sense the way it is explained. Am afraid I cannot remember where I got the file from, I downloaded it and saved it to a "grounding" folder on my disk.

Albert

Thankyou, I believe you are alluding to same grounding scheme as AndrewT and 6L6 were discussing and I do mean to implement when I rewire, as well as cleaning up the rest of it as well. I changed several things at once in two different projects and had some troubles...now I am correcting and only changing one thing at the time! It was confusing to go back through and determine which "improvement" caused the trouble. As to being quiet, it is dead silent except the incident with the Roku box!

I knew you should have two grounds with the CL-60s in a true dual mono set up from a previous discussion with Zen Mod. Thanks for the grounding info it will be very handy.

Russellc

 

[Russellc]

Oh, and it is the pic angle, wire is closer to chassis floor, while CL-60 is angled up.

Thanks again,

Russellc

 

[AndrewT]

Are the Power Thermistors in the Mains wiring, or doing something else?

 

[Russellc]

Are the Power Thermistors in the Mains wiring, or doing something else?

The 2 individual ones on each side are per the Pass schematic, going to chassis, there are just two of them. This amp is dual mono including 2 power cords.

The CL-60s on the terminal block (only one channel complete with cap shown, both side complete now) are in the primary circuit of the transformers wired like 6L6 did his in his build guides, except there are two here.

 

[AndrewT]

The CL60s in the primary add resistance and this is seen as source resistance for the transformer.
The CL60s in the primary change resistance as the current changes. This gives a variable source resistance to your transformer.

Both these effects reduce the performance of the PSU.

I recommend a time delayed bypass across the Power Thermistors.

 

[Russellc]

The CL60s in the primary add resistance and this is seen as source resistance for the transformer.
The CL60s in the primary change resistance as the current changes. This gives a variable source resistance to your transformer.

Both these effects reduce the performance of the PSU.

I recommend a time delayed bypass across the Power Thermistors.

I used a soft start from DIYstore on my BA-3 build and like its function. Also looks a bit neater as well

Russellc