i wonder, how is this related to the topic on hand? it is just a copper sheet, use it the same way you use steel or aluminum...i do not believe this required a lot of though, just time and money so if you have those, go go go...
i used 1.5mm thick copper sheet....reinforced with 16 x 16mm by 2mm aluminum angle bar in the correct place...
on thing for sure, the plate is heavier than aluminum that i am used to working with...
For conductivity without restriction on thickness, it really comes down to cost. Aluminum twice as thick as copper will conduct better and cost less. Most electric distribution is on Aluminum until it goes up inside your walls to many-many outlets.
Steel is a very good conductor for some purposes. Around here we run 3/8" steel along the streets. Plenty of electric conductivity and some resistance to tree branches. If you need to worry about floppy tubes and saggy transformers, thick steel is one way to go (thick Aluminum is easier to DIY machine).
Steel is a very good conductor for some purposes. Around here we run 3/8" steel along the streets. Plenty of electric conductivity and some resistance to tree branches. If you need to worry about floppy tubes and saggy transformers, thick steel is one way to go (thick Aluminum is easier to DIY machine).
Steel rusts away in no time. Steel-cored aluminium is what overhead cables are made from, since you get the strength, corrosion-resistance and the conductance - best of all worlds.
Pure annealed aluminium is about as nasty to machine as copper - if you've ever made the mistake of getting this instead of a decent free-machining aluminium alloy you'll know this! Most of what people call aluminium in real-world uses is in fact one of the many precipitation-hardening aluminium alloys (there are many of these, some are better for corrosion resistance, some better for welding, some better for machining, some are stronger, some have better conductivity...).
Anyway anythings better than titanium to work with!
Pure annealed aluminium is about as nasty to machine as copper - if you've ever made the mistake of getting this instead of a decent free-machining aluminium alloy you'll know this! Most of what people call aluminium in real-world uses is in fact one of the many precipitation-hardening aluminium alloys (there are many of these, some are better for corrosion resistance, some better for welding, some better for machining, some are stronger, some have better conductivity...).
Anyway anythings better than titanium to work with!
Hello,
I made some chassis from mirror like copper which i polish once a year or so with the product used for brass instruments. When i need to handle the chassis ( which very rarely happens) i use a kind of cotton mittens.
I added all the holes with CNC punching machine at work.
Greetings, eduard
P.s material comes with a plastic coating that is removed after machining.
I made some chassis from mirror like copper which i polish once a year or so with the product used for brass instruments. When i need to handle the chassis ( which very rarely happens) i use a kind of cotton mittens.
I added all the holes with CNC punching machine at work.
Greetings, eduard
P.s material comes with a plastic coating that is removed after machining.
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Ya know, this is correct. I may just go for it. I need to order the kit first to take measurements of the top plate.
They are easy to work, but not without raising large burrs, and bending the sheets inadvertently - things that make a professional finish difficult to achieve, and which aren't a problem with many other metals. Machinability is about achieving accurate and repeatable shapes, not just removing metal!
experience teaches you how to avoid such pitfalls....after all, common sense is never taught in any school, except in the school of hard knocks...
Apart from price and care requirements, I don't see much that counts against copper. It was in common use for VHF and UHF amateur radio gear chassis back in the tubes era and I dare say, some commercial and military applications too. (see examples in ARRL annual handbook editions from the '60s-'80s)
Sheet brass was widely used too but the important metallic property to note is the hardness of the stock material. Most commonly, copper is sold in half-hard or HO2 grade and goes up to brittle, unworkable HO4 if you shop around. Handling of the softer grades must be with care and protection or the flat polished surface you hope to see won't be flat at all and actually look amateurish. Fundamentals: Types of Copper and Properties
I should add that a hard lacquer coating is needed to prevent rapid discolouring and corrosion of the bare surfaces and you may need to temper (soften) the metal to work it without weakening it as you fold flanges, form eyes etc.
Sheet brass was widely used too but the important metallic property to note is the hardness of the stock material. Most commonly, copper is sold in half-hard or HO2 grade and goes up to brittle, unworkable HO4 if you shop around. Handling of the softer grades must be with care and protection or the flat polished surface you hope to see won't be flat at all and actually look amateurish. Fundamentals: Types of Copper and Properties
I should add that a hard lacquer coating is needed to prevent rapid discolouring and corrosion of the bare surfaces and you may need to temper (soften) the metal to work it without weakening it as you fold flanges, form eyes etc.
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