Don't really have access to a router at the moment.
I saw mentione of it over here
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/pipes/pipes.html
looks pretty easy to do. 🙂
I saw mentione of it over here
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/pipes/pipes.html
looks pretty easy to do. 🙂
I had to go and try it out and to my tastes the Rotozip did an average job when compared to my plunge router. It did cut a "quite good" circular hole in MDF but the bit went crooked so the hole is not as perpendicular to the surface as compared to the hole done with a 1/8" straight bit on the router. I might be a bit more anal about this than others, but If you can have the router and can wait for it to be within your reach, I'd do so. That's not to say that the Rotozip did not work at all.
Hope this helps!
Sébastien
Hope this helps!
Sébastien
there's alot of hype with the roto zip...I bought one and to tell you the truth, I'm not thrilled with it. unless you're cutting 1/4 mdf or plywood..you are going to end up buying alot of bits..and at $2 bucks each they go fast. Invest in a plunge router...you can use it everywhere.
I'm presuming that you don't have one, otherwise you woud have tried it.
If your only use will be to cut holes then for a few extra dollars buy a small router. It will do a better job, easuier to use and much more versatile.
fred p.
If your only use will be to cut holes then for a few extra dollars buy a small router. It will do a better job, easuier to use and much more versatile.
fred p.
wouldn't be my choice on speakers
Of course, it depends on what you're cutting the holes in _grin_
Normal wood or mdf, etc the rotozip is not your best choice -
To the best of my limited knowledge, their most common use in construction is for cutting sheet rock or laminate flooring, which is what I have used one for - sheet rock finishers mud over the imperfections and the flooring guys putty in the gaps
The high rotational speed makes cutting quick at the cost of precision and the units hard to control on thicker materials due to the high speeds - the end result is likely to not be satisfactory for speakers - great for quick imprecise work - too sloppy for I would require on speakers
Regards
Ken L
Of course, it depends on what you're cutting the holes in _grin_
Normal wood or mdf, etc the rotozip is not your best choice -
To the best of my limited knowledge, their most common use in construction is for cutting sheet rock or laminate flooring, which is what I have used one for - sheet rock finishers mud over the imperfections and the flooring guys putty in the gaps
The high rotational speed makes cutting quick at the cost of precision and the units hard to control on thicker materials due to the high speeds - the end result is likely to not be satisfactory for speakers - great for quick imprecise work - too sloppy for I would require on speakers
Regards
Ken L
My brother n law has one and I used it. Under powered POS. Buy a real router.( Dewalt, Bosch, Porter Cable etc.) You can still buy and use the rotozip bits if you want.
Thanks guys.
So it looks like I will have to pony up for a router. How many cuts does it usually take to go through 3/4 MDF anyways?
So it looks like I will have to pony up for a router. How many cuts does it usually take to go through 3/4 MDF anyways?
With a straight 1/8 or 1/4 bit and my run of the mill router, I go through straight from the start. So far I've had no problems, except with really cheap router bits that break after a few (10-15) holes of 12" diameter.
Sébastien
Sébastien
AJ Bertelson said:
It really depends on the size of your bit and how fast you go. I wouldn't go smaller than a 1/4" bit, they break too easily. But a 1/4 or 3/8 bit, go slow and do it in one shot. It's a bit like drilling a hole in metal, go in a little ways and back out to let the bit cool off.
AJ Bertelson said:
I guess I'll be a slight contrary voice here. I have a plunge router, "regular" (non-plunge) router and a Rotozip. When I need to make holes in MDF or ply up to 3/4" I usually reach for the Rotozip. Why? It is lighter, and with my hole cutting jig, just as fast to set up.
I find the Rotozip bits last quite a while if they aren't forced into the work. Let the tool cut and they are fine.
It has been said here that the bit doesn't stay perpendicular and the hole sides are angled. True if you use the standard (cheap or free depending on the Rotozip kit you buy) hole cutter. With the more expensive one I haven't had that problem. You can also make a hole cutter from a sheet of 1/4" ply and strap the Rotozip to it and get perfectly vertical hole sides.
If I could have only one tool like this, make no mistake it would be a plunge router. If I had neither tool my first purchase would be the router as well but the Rotozip can work and work well.
If you don't have either, I would, without thinking twice about it, get the router along with the jasper circle jig. It is so much more versitile and precise that it makes a rotozip seem like a toy in comparision. Sure both will make holes, but the router will countersink the driver, and bevel the back of the cutout for better driver breathing. You can also put a radius along the edges of the cab and use a flush trim bit to make all the panels fit perfectly.
I've got both and don't use the rotozip for speaker building.
I've got both and don't use the rotozip for speaker building.
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